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WEEKLY SHAVING SOAP REVIEW
- Thread starter Bladerunner7
- Start date
Try from your browser...
Yep, Firefox.
Bladerunner7
Member
Use Google Chrome , that should work. Or when you search for it in Google , there's a translate page command that pops up near the search results. Use that. Hope it works buddy.
Vittoria
Member
Just tried Google Chrome on my phone offered me translation straight away no problem. Great review mate as always.
Cheers.
Vittoria
Member
That’s Firefox for you good browser just doesn’t have all the features that chrome has
Cheers.
Google Chrome isn't a very good security browser.
Last edited:
Mmmm mmmm, this scent profile might sit squarely in my wheelhouse. Great review, thanks for thatJACK JARVIS – CADWGAWN ORIGINAL RECIPE
Bladerunner7
Member
Thanks much mate.
Bladerunner7
Member
Its a very unique scent, subtly sweet yet masculine, very different from most other shaving soaps and it has that South east Asian touch to it, in a nice way. I think you'd love it mate.Mmmm mmmm, this scent profile might sit squarely in my wheelhouse. Great review, thanks for that
Bladerunner7
Member
I'm a Firefox bloke too mate but for work and translation purposes, I use Chrome.
Bladerunner7
Member
ETHOS GROOMING ESSENTIALS – LAVENDER SUPEME (F BASE)
First Look - A silver colored soap container cover with a Lavender colored label on it, straight and simple as can be. The soap’s title, brand name and tag line, ‘Artfully crafted. Culturally inspired’ take up most of the space on the cover. The series name as in Lisse collection does add an element of intrigue but it is the presentation of the Lavender Supreme Shaving soap that stands out. Unlike the regular plastic containers, Ethos Grooming Essentials use a transparent tub reminiscent of glass in look and feel. The silver top just adds a touch of elegance to the package which comes across as nothing short of premium in the hand.
Side note – Frank Lipani the artisan and founder of Ethos Grooming Essentials had his hands steeped in personal care - Research and Development related to cosmetics and hair care for 19 years before he launched Ethos Grooming Essentials. It was Frank’s passion for wet shaving that was the inspiration behind the launch of his brand. His usage of naturally derived ingredients incorporating hair and skin care technology formulations have gained him cult status in the wet shaving world, and all through word of mouth by wet shavers turned Ethos fans.
First Whiff – On opening the container, a calming and divine fragrance caught my nose, it was the kind you can expect in a lavender field or plantation. I held the container up to my nose, took a long whiff and there I was standing in the middle of that lavender field surrounded by nothing but pure and natural lavender notes dancing in the air around me. The lavender essential oil used in the soap is certified pure organic and sourced from a single grower in Provence , after all this soap belongs to the Lisse Collection or the series based on a French theme. French Lavender is soft and gentle with a powdery dry down unlike some of its counterparts which can be overwhelming with their herbaceous and medicinal notes. The fragrance strength of the soap is between medium to strong, then again Lavender is best served in modest doses. This is a must have for a Lavender junkie or wet shavers who lean towards pure and natural scents.
First Lather – Totally charmed by the fragrance, it was time to test the lather. I smeared a teaspoon of soap at the bottom of my HC & Co SS lather bowl and using two table spoons of warm water and my Semogue Boar brush, I did sixty seconds of brush swirling, clockwise and anti-clockwise. I let the pasty mix breathe for a minute before I returned to the lather bowl, adding a few more drops of water and working the soap for another two minutes. The result was a creamy, low structure lather with a nice sheen to it. Adding a few more drops of water and sixty seconds more of brush swirling saw the lather increase a bit in volume but still on the low structure side. For me, a rich and dense low structure lather is always a precursor of a good shave ahead.
First Performance – When painting the first few strokes of the lather on my face, I knew there was something special about this soap. I have fairly sensitive skin and on occasion certain soaps make my face tingle due to some essential oils or a stronger content of some ingredient but not this one. I found the lather of Lavender Supreme to be cooling and calming on the skin without any menthol in it. I had a terrific two pass BBS on four days of growth using my 2013 Muhle R41 with a Feather blade. The cushion, protection and glide provided by the soap was top tier. The post shave was the best part, even a few hours later without using ny aftershave balm or lotion, my skin felt soft and well nourished.
Ethos grooming Essentials use a proprietary complex called EOS or Earth • Ocean • Science in which 36 unique ingredients sourced from land and water in their pure natural form are blended to create it, the aim being to enhance the skins condition with every consecutive use of their product. Lavender supreme also features the F Base which is firmer than the previous one and has a generous dose of Hyaluronic acid, considered the magic potion in skin care products. The addition of Comfrey extract known for its pain-relieving, and skin-healing properties for muscle and joint injuries just confirms how much thought has gone into the creation of the Ethos line of shaving soaps. Other key ingredients include Aloe Vera Juice, Organic Lavender Hydrosol, Stearic Acid, Grass Fed Beef Tallow, Duck Fat, Organic Shea Butter, Castor Oil, Cocoa Butter, Kokum Butter, Cupuacu Butter, Organic Orange Butter, Organic Glycerin, Sheep Milk, Camel Milk, Grass Fed Bison Tallow, Argan Oil, Organic Rosehip Seed Oil, Kukui Nut Oil, Organic French Lavender Essential Oil, Ostrich Oil, EOS Complex, Allantoin, Oat Amino Acids, Silk Amino Acids, Soy/Rice Peptides, Organic Vitamin E Oil, Calendula , Aloe Vera , Rose Hip , Milk Thistle Extract and Chamomile Extracts along with Capritolin (Natural Preservative).
First Opinion – The Ethos Grooming Essentials F Base is unlike any other shaving soap, its stands far apart from the crowd as a product created through in depth research and purpose with the aim being skin care. The fragrance, performance and post shave of Lavender Supreme are top tier , making it a must have in any shaving den. Being a 4.5 ounce pour, it is a bit on the pricier side but consider it money well spent on a product that most shaving soaps would achieve to imitate. Top recommendation on this one.
Cover Art Work & Presentation – 7 / 10
Lather Quality – 9 / 10
Fragrance – 10 / 10
Cushion & Protection – 10 / 10
Slickness – 9 / 10
Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10
Value – 10 / 10
Total Point Score – 65 / 70
Availability – www.therazorcompany.com, www.pasteurpharmacy.com
First Look - A silver colored soap container cover with a Lavender colored label on it, straight and simple as can be. The soap’s title, brand name and tag line, ‘Artfully crafted. Culturally inspired’ take up most of the space on the cover. The series name as in Lisse collection does add an element of intrigue but it is the presentation of the Lavender Supreme Shaving soap that stands out. Unlike the regular plastic containers, Ethos Grooming Essentials use a transparent tub reminiscent of glass in look and feel. The silver top just adds a touch of elegance to the package which comes across as nothing short of premium in the hand.
Side note – Frank Lipani the artisan and founder of Ethos Grooming Essentials had his hands steeped in personal care - Research and Development related to cosmetics and hair care for 19 years before he launched Ethos Grooming Essentials. It was Frank’s passion for wet shaving that was the inspiration behind the launch of his brand. His usage of naturally derived ingredients incorporating hair and skin care technology formulations have gained him cult status in the wet shaving world, and all through word of mouth by wet shavers turned Ethos fans.
First Whiff – On opening the container, a calming and divine fragrance caught my nose, it was the kind you can expect in a lavender field or plantation. I held the container up to my nose, took a long whiff and there I was standing in the middle of that lavender field surrounded by nothing but pure and natural lavender notes dancing in the air around me. The lavender essential oil used in the soap is certified pure organic and sourced from a single grower in Provence , after all this soap belongs to the Lisse Collection or the series based on a French theme. French Lavender is soft and gentle with a powdery dry down unlike some of its counterparts which can be overwhelming with their herbaceous and medicinal notes. The fragrance strength of the soap is between medium to strong, then again Lavender is best served in modest doses. This is a must have for a Lavender junkie or wet shavers who lean towards pure and natural scents.
First Lather – Totally charmed by the fragrance, it was time to test the lather. I smeared a teaspoon of soap at the bottom of my HC & Co SS lather bowl and using two table spoons of warm water and my Semogue Boar brush, I did sixty seconds of brush swirling, clockwise and anti-clockwise. I let the pasty mix breathe for a minute before I returned to the lather bowl, adding a few more drops of water and working the soap for another two minutes. The result was a creamy, low structure lather with a nice sheen to it. Adding a few more drops of water and sixty seconds more of brush swirling saw the lather increase a bit in volume but still on the low structure side. For me, a rich and dense low structure lather is always a precursor of a good shave ahead.
First Performance – When painting the first few strokes of the lather on my face, I knew there was something special about this soap. I have fairly sensitive skin and on occasion certain soaps make my face tingle due to some essential oils or a stronger content of some ingredient but not this one. I found the lather of Lavender Supreme to be cooling and calming on the skin without any menthol in it. I had a terrific two pass BBS on four days of growth using my 2013 Muhle R41 with a Feather blade. The cushion, protection and glide provided by the soap was top tier. The post shave was the best part, even a few hours later without using ny aftershave balm or lotion, my skin felt soft and well nourished.
Ethos grooming Essentials use a proprietary complex called EOS or Earth • Ocean • Science in which 36 unique ingredients sourced from land and water in their pure natural form are blended to create it, the aim being to enhance the skins condition with every consecutive use of their product. Lavender supreme also features the F Base which is firmer than the previous one and has a generous dose of Hyaluronic acid, considered the magic potion in skin care products. The addition of Comfrey extract known for its pain-relieving, and skin-healing properties for muscle and joint injuries just confirms how much thought has gone into the creation of the Ethos line of shaving soaps. Other key ingredients include Aloe Vera Juice, Organic Lavender Hydrosol, Stearic Acid, Grass Fed Beef Tallow, Duck Fat, Organic Shea Butter, Castor Oil, Cocoa Butter, Kokum Butter, Cupuacu Butter, Organic Orange Butter, Organic Glycerin, Sheep Milk, Camel Milk, Grass Fed Bison Tallow, Argan Oil, Organic Rosehip Seed Oil, Kukui Nut Oil, Organic French Lavender Essential Oil, Ostrich Oil, EOS Complex, Allantoin, Oat Amino Acids, Silk Amino Acids, Soy/Rice Peptides, Organic Vitamin E Oil, Calendula , Aloe Vera , Rose Hip , Milk Thistle Extract and Chamomile Extracts along with Capritolin (Natural Preservative).
First Opinion – The Ethos Grooming Essentials F Base is unlike any other shaving soap, its stands far apart from the crowd as a product created through in depth research and purpose with the aim being skin care. The fragrance, performance and post shave of Lavender Supreme are top tier , making it a must have in any shaving den. Being a 4.5 ounce pour, it is a bit on the pricier side but consider it money well spent on a product that most shaving soaps would achieve to imitate. Top recommendation on this one.
Cover Art Work & Presentation – 7 / 10
Lather Quality – 9 / 10
Fragrance – 10 / 10
Cushion & Protection – 10 / 10
Slickness – 9 / 10
Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10
Value – 10 / 10
Total Point Score – 65 / 70
Availability – www.therazorcompany.com, www.pasteurpharmacy.com
Vittoria
Member
Thanks for the great review @Bladerunner7
I really enjoyed the read. It must be a Stella soap.
I think only one of the soap has got a rating that high!
4 10 out of 10s!
Which I purchased after reading your review
It is of course Saponificio Varesino 70th anniversary 4.3 beta.
Loved reading the review as always looking forward to the next one.
I really enjoyed the read. It must be a Stella soap.
I think only one of the soap has got a rating that high!
4 10 out of 10s!
Which I purchased after reading your review
It is of course Saponificio Varesino 70th anniversary 4.3 beta.
Loved reading the review as always looking forward to the next one.
Bladerunner7
Member
Thanks very much for the kind words mate. I love SV to bits as well. Lavender Supreme is one of my favs now, it is worth every dollar spent on it.Thanks for the great review @Bladerunner7
I really enjoyed the read. It must be a Stella soap.
I think only one of the soap has got a rating that high!
4 10 out of 10s!
Which I purchased after reading your review
It is of course Saponificio Varesino 70th anniversary 4.3 beta.
Loved reading the review as always looking forward to the next one.
Nah. Forget modest doses, the more the merrier.
But then I'm an unabashed lavender-head. This one has been on my bucket list for a long time. Usually, I deal with my bucket lists by changing the "b" to an "f", but next year I think I shall forego that formality.
Bladerunner7
Member
WHOLLY KAW – LONDON
First Look - The silhouette of a man chest up set against the London skyline at twilight time with the reflection of the iconic landmarks in the water of the Thames, the soap’s title on the cover and the brand name with the kind of soap base featured on the underside of the tub makes this is a crafty presentation. The abstract design and smart interplay of the light and the darkness through shades of orange and black make the tub cover of Wholly Kaw’s London a standout for me.
Side note – Sri, the Artisan and founder of Wholly Kaw started making soaps for family and friends in 2011. Tired of canned shaving foam and cartridge razors he progressed to making shaving soaps with a focus on skin protection which he distributed to Redditors for feedback in 2014. Positive replies saw the release of the Wholly Kaw vegan soaps in 2014 and the tallow version with donkey milk extract in 2016. Two years later the Buffala base with water buffalo tallow and milk emerged before Sri climbed to the top tier of shaving soaps with his Siero base. A few interesting facts – Wholly Kaw is a play on the exclamation of surprise ‘Holy Cow’ and Siero is Italian for whey.
First Whiff – The fragrance notes of London are listed as Jasmine and Saffron at the top with Amber and Dry Woods at the heart propped up by a base of Ethyl Maltol, Strawberry and SoftFlorals. At first whiff I get a light jasmine note with a pleasant saffron undertone, a second whiff and I detect the amber and woody notes with a soft caramel like presence followed by a pleasant floral blend with a slight fruity touch to it. Wholly Kaw’s London aims to capture the essence of the iconic city in Great Britain and comes away a winner. While the cover artwork depicts twilight time in London, the fragrance of the soap is reminiscent of that morning period when office goers are on their way to work , wearing their favorite British perfumes which tend to be gentler on the nose and more subtle in projection when compared to their French or Italian counterparts. There is a freshness and masculinity about this scent that is hard to describe but best experienced when used. This a gentleman’s fragrance for sure.
First Lather – The soap in the container is quite firm but easy to scoop out. Using a teaspoon of it and two tablespoons of water, I swirled my damp Beard & Blade Chubby brush clockwise and anti-clockwise for a minute in a Cayuen lather bowl. I left the paste to hydrate for another two minutes before adding a few drops of water followed by two more minutes of brush swirling. The result was a silky, smooth and fairly low structure lather that had a nice sheen to it. London is a soap of average thirst and is very easy to dial in after just one use.
First Performance – Having scored top marks in artwork, fragrance and lather, it was on to the soap’s performance. The first few strokes of lather on my face and it reminded me of ETHOS grooming essential soaps which seem to pamper the face even before the blade touches the skin. While painting the lather on my cheeks, the fragrance strength was a little stronger than what I got from the puck and it was such a delight. I had a two pass BBS result on three days of stubble using my Ikon Tek with a Voshkod blade and the residual slickness was one of the best I’ve experienced. The post shave was nothing short of fantastic with my skin feeling pampered and nourished even four hours later. The soap’s stellar performance can be attributed to its stand out ingredients, which are Water, Potassium and Sodium Stearate, Potassium Tallowate, Sodium Tallowate, Potassium and Sodium Ricinoleate, Vegetable Glycerin, Donkey Milk, Potassium and Sodium Shea Butterate, Kokum Butter, Cocoa Butter, Milk Protein, Milk, Hops Extract, Fragrance, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lanolin, Sorbic Acid and Citrus Lemon Peel Oil.
First Opinion – London is a 5.8 oz offering by Wholly Kaw which captures the essence of the iconic city through its fragrance. The brand’s elite Siero base is one of the slickest and most luxurious shaving soaps in the here and now. It was enough to get me excited about the next few stops on the Wholly Kaw journey, namely New York, Roman and Milano, got my bags packed and ready with a shave brush in hand.
Cover Art Work & Presentation – 9 / 10
Lather Quality – 8 / 10
Fragrance – 8 / 10
Cushion & Protection – 9 / 10
Slickness – 10 / 10
Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10
Value – 10 / 10
Total Point Score – 64 / 70
Availability – www.therazorcompany.com, www.pasteurpharmacy.com, www.whollykaw.com and other online retailers
First Look - The silhouette of a man chest up set against the London skyline at twilight time with the reflection of the iconic landmarks in the water of the Thames, the soap’s title on the cover and the brand name with the kind of soap base featured on the underside of the tub makes this is a crafty presentation. The abstract design and smart interplay of the light and the darkness through shades of orange and black make the tub cover of Wholly Kaw’s London a standout for me.
Side note – Sri, the Artisan and founder of Wholly Kaw started making soaps for family and friends in 2011. Tired of canned shaving foam and cartridge razors he progressed to making shaving soaps with a focus on skin protection which he distributed to Redditors for feedback in 2014. Positive replies saw the release of the Wholly Kaw vegan soaps in 2014 and the tallow version with donkey milk extract in 2016. Two years later the Buffala base with water buffalo tallow and milk emerged before Sri climbed to the top tier of shaving soaps with his Siero base. A few interesting facts – Wholly Kaw is a play on the exclamation of surprise ‘Holy Cow’ and Siero is Italian for whey.
First Whiff – The fragrance notes of London are listed as Jasmine and Saffron at the top with Amber and Dry Woods at the heart propped up by a base of Ethyl Maltol, Strawberry and SoftFlorals. At first whiff I get a light jasmine note with a pleasant saffron undertone, a second whiff and I detect the amber and woody notes with a soft caramel like presence followed by a pleasant floral blend with a slight fruity touch to it. Wholly Kaw’s London aims to capture the essence of the iconic city in Great Britain and comes away a winner. While the cover artwork depicts twilight time in London, the fragrance of the soap is reminiscent of that morning period when office goers are on their way to work , wearing their favorite British perfumes which tend to be gentler on the nose and more subtle in projection when compared to their French or Italian counterparts. There is a freshness and masculinity about this scent that is hard to describe but best experienced when used. This a gentleman’s fragrance for sure.
First Lather – The soap in the container is quite firm but easy to scoop out. Using a teaspoon of it and two tablespoons of water, I swirled my damp Beard & Blade Chubby brush clockwise and anti-clockwise for a minute in a Cayuen lather bowl. I left the paste to hydrate for another two minutes before adding a few drops of water followed by two more minutes of brush swirling. The result was a silky, smooth and fairly low structure lather that had a nice sheen to it. London is a soap of average thirst and is very easy to dial in after just one use.
First Performance – Having scored top marks in artwork, fragrance and lather, it was on to the soap’s performance. The first few strokes of lather on my face and it reminded me of ETHOS grooming essential soaps which seem to pamper the face even before the blade touches the skin. While painting the lather on my cheeks, the fragrance strength was a little stronger than what I got from the puck and it was such a delight. I had a two pass BBS result on three days of stubble using my Ikon Tek with a Voshkod blade and the residual slickness was one of the best I’ve experienced. The post shave was nothing short of fantastic with my skin feeling pampered and nourished even four hours later. The soap’s stellar performance can be attributed to its stand out ingredients, which are Water, Potassium and Sodium Stearate, Potassium Tallowate, Sodium Tallowate, Potassium and Sodium Ricinoleate, Vegetable Glycerin, Donkey Milk, Potassium and Sodium Shea Butterate, Kokum Butter, Cocoa Butter, Milk Protein, Milk, Hops Extract, Fragrance, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lanolin, Sorbic Acid and Citrus Lemon Peel Oil.
First Opinion – London is a 5.8 oz offering by Wholly Kaw which captures the essence of the iconic city through its fragrance. The brand’s elite Siero base is one of the slickest and most luxurious shaving soaps in the here and now. It was enough to get me excited about the next few stops on the Wholly Kaw journey, namely New York, Roman and Milano, got my bags packed and ready with a shave brush in hand.
Cover Art Work & Presentation – 9 / 10
Lather Quality – 8 / 10
Fragrance – 8 / 10
Cushion & Protection – 9 / 10
Slickness – 10 / 10
Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10
Value – 10 / 10
Total Point Score – 64 / 70
Availability – www.therazorcompany.com, www.pasteurpharmacy.com, www.whollykaw.com and other online retailers
I love WK soaps, and I even sort of love London. (Anyone who loves London has to hate it a bit as well.) But the scents of London? Hmmm. I'd start with diesel, vomit and piss... But you'd have to be pretty brave to put those scents in your soap.
Bladerunner7
Member
DECLARATION GROOMING – APOGEE
First Look - The Iconic Declaration Grooming Bison Logo stands out on tricolor background. It’s a simple bit of artwork but has depth to it. The colors of the tub cover and the shaving soap’s title hint towards the soap’s fragrance. The popular synonyms of Apogee are zenith, height, pinnacle and culmination, more on that title later. I find the cover unique and recognizable due to the DG branding and that works for me.
Side note – Scott Stewart founded L&L Grooming in 2015 with the manufacture of vegan based shaving soaps and matching aftershaves. Soon, custom shaving brush and wooden razor handles were added to its catalogue. In 2016 the bison base with bison tallow and a Chatillon Lux collaboration followed. A few months later, Declaration Brushworks was set up as a separate entity, 3 new handle sizes with premium hand-tied knots; Washington, Jefferson, and Franklin which have since gained a cult following. In 2017 L&L Grooming and Declaration Brushworks became Declaration Grooming with Chatillon Lux becoming a full time perfume collaborator. In 2018 the Icarus base with added lamb tallow and goat milk was launched before DG hit on their elite base which trumped all the rest, 'Milksteak'. The Company operates out of Ferndale Michigan.
First Whiff – The Fragrance notes of Apogee are White Musk, Salt, Neroli, Petitgrain, Hawaiian Sandalwood and Cannabis. At first whiff I get a light citrusy floral note that is definitely the Neroli, followed by a clean musk and pleasant woody presence. A second whiff and a herbaceous note leaning more towards the fresh green cologne scents comes through. Remember the soaps title, that hint was about Cannabis, a note though present literally plays a peek-a-boo with its subtle and sometimes hidden presence, often overpowered by the Petitgrain. This is a fresh, musky and woody scent which would be perfect for summer days or even during fall. A third whiff and the fragrance that binds all the others together stands out, 'Hawaiian Sandalwood', sweet and warm in its projection unlike its sometimes overwhelming Indian or green and earthy Australian cousins.
First Lather – Apogee with the milksteak base is a soft croap, softer than its predecessors Bison and Icarus. It made more sense to scoop and bowl lather, so using a little more than a teaspoon of product and two tablespoons of water I swirled my DScosmetic A2S synthetic brush clockwise and anti-clockwise for a minute in the HC & Co stainless steel lather bowl. Soon I had a thin pasty lather in the bowl. I added a tablespoon more of water and left the mix to hydrate for two minutes. Returning to the bowl, I proceeded with two minutes of gentle yet quick brush rotations, making sure that I wasn’t pressing the brush knot down. The result was an amazing rich and fluffy looking lather with a lovely sheen to it. This is an extremely easy soap to work with and can soak up a lot of water without the lather dissipating or breaking down.
First Performance – Unique fragrance, shiny lather and now all that mattered was the soap’s performance. For me, the first few strokes of the brush on my cheeks is good enough to predict the post shave and the skin friendliness of the product. The lather felt good enough on my face for me to keep lathering up longer than usual. I had a two pass BBS on five days of growth using a Yaqi Castor loaded with a Feather SS blade. The cushion and protection was excellent with the residual slickness of the soap on par with the best. When a soap performs like this, it makes it hard to choose another for your next few shaves. The post shave was excellent too and the product’s blend of ingredients can be credited for that, namely Stearic Acid, Water, Castor Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Vegetable Glycerin, Bison Tallow, Mango Butter, Avocado Oil, Shea Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, Lanolin, Bentonite Clay, Yogurt, Buttermilk, Egg Whites, Coconut Milk, Goat's Milk, Tocopheryl Acetate, Maltodextrin, Milk Protein, Silk Amino Acids, Extracts of White Willow Bark, Burdock Root, Sea Buckthorn Fruit and Grape Seed.
First Opinion – Apogee may veer of the regular masculine cologne fragrance path but with each use I find the scent to be addictive and it may be just my nose that is in search of anything out of the box nowadays. The milksteak base is top tier and makes this soap a terrific performer, truly a must have in every den. The Cannabis note may be very faint but this is one soap that will get you on a shaving high for sure.
Cover Art Work & Presentation – 7 / 10
Lather Quality – 9 / 10
Fragrance – 7 / 10
Cushion & Protection – 9 / 10
Slickness – 10 / 10
Post Shave Feel – 9 / 10
Value – 10 / 10
Total Point Score – 61 / 70
Availability – www.declarationgrooming.com , www.therazorcompany.com, www.pasteurpharmacy.com, www.maggardrazors.com
First Look - The Iconic Declaration Grooming Bison Logo stands out on tricolor background. It’s a simple bit of artwork but has depth to it. The colors of the tub cover and the shaving soap’s title hint towards the soap’s fragrance. The popular synonyms of Apogee are zenith, height, pinnacle and culmination, more on that title later. I find the cover unique and recognizable due to the DG branding and that works for me.
Side note – Scott Stewart founded L&L Grooming in 2015 with the manufacture of vegan based shaving soaps and matching aftershaves. Soon, custom shaving brush and wooden razor handles were added to its catalogue. In 2016 the bison base with bison tallow and a Chatillon Lux collaboration followed. A few months later, Declaration Brushworks was set up as a separate entity, 3 new handle sizes with premium hand-tied knots; Washington, Jefferson, and Franklin which have since gained a cult following. In 2017 L&L Grooming and Declaration Brushworks became Declaration Grooming with Chatillon Lux becoming a full time perfume collaborator. In 2018 the Icarus base with added lamb tallow and goat milk was launched before DG hit on their elite base which trumped all the rest, 'Milksteak'. The Company operates out of Ferndale Michigan.
First Whiff – The Fragrance notes of Apogee are White Musk, Salt, Neroli, Petitgrain, Hawaiian Sandalwood and Cannabis. At first whiff I get a light citrusy floral note that is definitely the Neroli, followed by a clean musk and pleasant woody presence. A second whiff and a herbaceous note leaning more towards the fresh green cologne scents comes through. Remember the soaps title, that hint was about Cannabis, a note though present literally plays a peek-a-boo with its subtle and sometimes hidden presence, often overpowered by the Petitgrain. This is a fresh, musky and woody scent which would be perfect for summer days or even during fall. A third whiff and the fragrance that binds all the others together stands out, 'Hawaiian Sandalwood', sweet and warm in its projection unlike its sometimes overwhelming Indian or green and earthy Australian cousins.
First Lather – Apogee with the milksteak base is a soft croap, softer than its predecessors Bison and Icarus. It made more sense to scoop and bowl lather, so using a little more than a teaspoon of product and two tablespoons of water I swirled my DScosmetic A2S synthetic brush clockwise and anti-clockwise for a minute in the HC & Co stainless steel lather bowl. Soon I had a thin pasty lather in the bowl. I added a tablespoon more of water and left the mix to hydrate for two minutes. Returning to the bowl, I proceeded with two minutes of gentle yet quick brush rotations, making sure that I wasn’t pressing the brush knot down. The result was an amazing rich and fluffy looking lather with a lovely sheen to it. This is an extremely easy soap to work with and can soak up a lot of water without the lather dissipating or breaking down.
First Performance – Unique fragrance, shiny lather and now all that mattered was the soap’s performance. For me, the first few strokes of the brush on my cheeks is good enough to predict the post shave and the skin friendliness of the product. The lather felt good enough on my face for me to keep lathering up longer than usual. I had a two pass BBS on five days of growth using a Yaqi Castor loaded with a Feather SS blade. The cushion and protection was excellent with the residual slickness of the soap on par with the best. When a soap performs like this, it makes it hard to choose another for your next few shaves. The post shave was excellent too and the product’s blend of ingredients can be credited for that, namely Stearic Acid, Water, Castor Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Vegetable Glycerin, Bison Tallow, Mango Butter, Avocado Oil, Shea Butter, Sodium Hydroxide, Lanolin, Bentonite Clay, Yogurt, Buttermilk, Egg Whites, Coconut Milk, Goat's Milk, Tocopheryl Acetate, Maltodextrin, Milk Protein, Silk Amino Acids, Extracts of White Willow Bark, Burdock Root, Sea Buckthorn Fruit and Grape Seed.
First Opinion – Apogee may veer of the regular masculine cologne fragrance path but with each use I find the scent to be addictive and it may be just my nose that is in search of anything out of the box nowadays. The milksteak base is top tier and makes this soap a terrific performer, truly a must have in every den. The Cannabis note may be very faint but this is one soap that will get you on a shaving high for sure.
Cover Art Work & Presentation – 7 / 10
Lather Quality – 9 / 10
Fragrance – 7 / 10
Cushion & Protection – 9 / 10
Slickness – 10 / 10
Post Shave Feel – 9 / 10
Value – 10 / 10
Total Point Score – 61 / 70
Availability – www.declarationgrooming.com , www.therazorcompany.com, www.pasteurpharmacy.com, www.maggardrazors.com
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Vittoria
Member
Firstly another great review @Bladerunner7 .WHOLLY KAW – LONDON
First Look - The silhouette of a man chest up set against the London skyline at twilight time with the reflection of the iconic landmarks in the water of the Thames, the soap’s title on the cover and the brand name with the kind of soap base featured on the underside of the tub makes this is a crafty presentation. The abstract design and smart interplay of the light and the darkness through shades of orange and black make the tub cover of Wholly Kaw’s London a standout for me.
Side note – Sri, the Artisan and founder of Wholly Kaw started making soaps for family and friends in 2011. Tired of canned shaving foam and cartridge razors he progressed to making shaving soaps with a focus on skin protection which he distributed to Redditors for feedback in 2014. Positive replies saw the release of the Wholly Kaw vegan soaps in 2014 and the tallow version with donkey milk extract in 2016. Two years later the Buffala base with water buffalo tallow and milk emerged before Sri climbed to the top tier of shaving soaps with his Siero base. A few interesting facts – Wholly Kaw is a play on the exclamation of surprise ‘Holy Cow’ and Siero is Italian for whey.
First Whiff – The fragrance notes of London are listed as Jasmine and Saffron at the top with Amber and Dry Woods at the heart propped up by a base of Ethyl Maltol, Strawberry and SoftFlorals. At first whiff I get a light jasmine note with a pleasant saffron undertone, a second whiff and I detect the amber and woody notes with a soft caramel like presence followed by a pleasant floral blend with a slight fruity touch to it. Wholly Kaw’s London aims to capture the essence of the iconic city in Great Britain and comes away a winner. While the cover artwork depicts twilight time in London, the fragrance of the soap is reminiscent of that morning period when office goers are on their way to work , wearing their favorite British perfumes which tend to be gentler on the nose and more subtle in projection when compared to their French or Italian counterparts. There is a freshness and masculinity about this scent that is hard to describe but best experienced when used. This a gentleman’s fragrance for sure.
First Lather – The soap in the container is quite firm but easy to scoop out. Using a teaspoon of it and two tablespoons of water, I swirled my damp Beard & Blade Chubby brush clockwise and anti-clockwise for a minute in a Cayuen lather bowl. I left the paste to hydrate for another two minutes before adding a few drops of water followed by two more minutes of brush swirling. The result was a silky, smooth and fairly low structure lather that had a nice sheen to it. London is a soap of average thirst and is very easy to dial in after just one use.
First Performance – Having scored top marks in artwork, fragrance and lather, it was on to the soap’s performance. The first few strokes of lather on my face and it reminded me of ETHOS grooming essential soaps which seem to pamper the face even before the blade touches the skin. While painting the lather on my cheeks, the fragrance strength was a little stronger than what I got from the puck and it was such a delight. I had a two pass BBS result on three days of stubble using my Ikon Tek with a Voshkod blade and the residual slickness was one of the best I’ve experienced. The post shave was nothing short of fantastic with my skin feeling pampered and nourished even four hours later. The soap’s stellar performance can be attributed to its stand out ingredients, which are Water, Potassium and Sodium Stearate, Potassium Tallowate, Sodium Tallowate, Potassium and Sodium Ricinoleate, Vegetable Glycerin, Donkey Milk, Potassium and Sodium Shea Butterate, Kokum Butter, Cocoa Butter, Milk Protein, Milk, Hops Extract, Fragrance, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Lanolin, Sorbic Acid and Citrus Lemon Peel Oil.
First Opinion – London is a 5.8 oz offering by Wholly Kaw which captures the essence of the iconic city through its fragrance. The brand’s elite Siero base is one of the slickest and most luxurious shaving soaps in the here and now. It was enough to get me excited about the next few stops on the Wholly Kaw journey, namely New York, Roman and Milano, got my bags packed and ready with a shave brush in hand.
Cover Art Work & Presentation – 9 / 10
Lather Quality – 8 / 10
Fragrance – 8 / 10
Cushion & Protection – 9 / 10
Slickness – 10 / 10
Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10
Value – 10 / 10
Total Point Score – 64 / 70
Availability – www.therazorcompany.com, www.pasteurpharmacy.com, www.whollykaw.com and other online retailers
My memories of London are cherished ones the history , museums , nightlife and the beautiful young ladies (I was 25 when I was there)
I guess it would different now in 2025 so glad I experienced it when I did.
I will defiantly put this one on the list.
Cheers.
Bladerunner7
Member
It is the London i remember too mate, when feeding the ducks at the nearby pond, sipping on hot chocolate with free marshmallows thrown in by kind Bicycle vendors during winter and catching Status Quo perform live was Paradise. When that little joint on the outskirts of Manchester served the best Fish & Chipps ever. There were no pub fights, rowdy brawlers or any discrimination, It was a time to cherish forever. Was too young to bother about the ladies, and footie games were more attractive thenFirstly another great review @Bladerunner7 .
My memories of London are cherished ones the history , museums , nightlife and the beautiful young ladies (I was 25 when I was there)
I guess it would different now in 2025 so glad I experienced it when I did.
I will defiantly put this one on the list.
Cheers.
Vittoria
Member
I think the place on the outskirts of Manchester your referring to is maybe Stockport?It is the London i remember too mate, when feeding the ducks at the nearby pond, sipping on hot chocolate with free marshmallows thrown in by kind Bicycle vendors during winter and catching Status Quo perform live was Paradise. When that little joint on the outskirts of Manchester served the best Fish & Chipps ever. There were no pub fights, rowdy brawlers or any discrimination, It was a time to cherish forever. Was too young to bother about the ladies, and footie games were more attractive then
I had the best Cod and chips with mashie pees at a fish at chip shop their myself.
Cheers.