Weekly Razor Review

Maxwell June Double Edge (USA)



It’s a strange old game this buying first release razors, sometimes you can get burnt. On hearing of any razor release I like to be in early to get one from the first batch, that’s exactly what was done with this release from Maxwell June. Great, mine is on the way, then I’m advised that there are three different efficiency caps available, yes you read it right, Maxwell June adjust their efficiency level by swapping the cap. When I ordered mine, there were no options, so I asked Maxwell June to confirm that mine is the regular cap. Rob from Maxwell June advised: ‘The MJ that you have is our mid level of exposure. It is neutral. The EX is slightly positive and the SX is slightly negative. Both are marked on the top cap with these letters. We don’t change the blade gap between the different top caps’. I didn’t really want to hear that mine was neutral exposure, there’s nothing that can be done about it now, so I’ll check it out.

I could not help but notice the similarities to the cap on the Errolized version of the TRC Double Edged Razor and this one, wide machined flats (with some curvature). And the other part I like is the relief at of the back of the plate as I suggested for the TRC, no hole in the handle though. A drilled out end on the handle would have reduced the weight considerably and resulted in a razor that weighed in under the 100g threshold. Round blade posts are positioned on the cap, and these protrude through the plate to sit proud at the back of the plate. Long channels down each side of the plate clear the lather leaving a thin edge that looks vulnerable to knocks and bumps. Clamping of the blade is taken care of by a machined edge of the raised section of the plate in conjunction with the wide flat on the cap. With dry hands the grip of the handle is slippery, probably due to how shallow the knurling is, hopefully wet hands will assist with grip. There has been no further processing of the finish after being removed from the CNC machine, but it does present as a satin finish with very few machine marks visible on the outer surfaces, however machine marks on the inner sides of the head are displayed for the whole world to observe.

All my negativity and the doubts I exhibited regarding the use of a razor with neutral blade exposure were wiped away during the first stroke. This razor has a unique feel, different to any razor I’ve used previously, there was no sensation of the blade working, it simply wipes the whiskers away, so safe and comfortable, I really appreciated that. Efficiency was on the lower side of Karve CB level #D and the effectiveness of the shave must be experienced to be really appreciate. This is the smoothest and most comfortable razors it’s ever been my pleasure to use in a long time. There were no grip issues with the handle, but the whole razor would benefit from the handle being lighter, much lighter; this razor is crying out for a titanium handle. There is no need for me to go searching for an EX plate, the MS done all I require from a razor, but there is every chance I will chase one down to try. At some time I would like to see the release of a premium version of the Maxwell June with a drilled out or preferably, a titanium handle; if Maxwell June don’t do one, I might have to work on one for myself, this razor would reign supreme.

Blades Used – Kai and Gillette Platinum

Material – 316 Stainless Steel

Weight – 105.8g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 43.61mm

Handle Length – 83.90mm

Handle Diameter – 13.18mm

Availability – Maxwell June

Final Word – Superb shaver
 
Errol said:
Maxwell June Double Edge (USA)



It’s a strange old game this buying first release razors, sometimes you can get burnt. On hearing of any razor release I like to be in early to get one from the first batch, that’s exactly what was done with this release from Maxwell June. Great, mine is on the way, then I’m advised that there are three different efficiency caps available, yes you read it right, Maxwell June adjust their efficiency level by swapping the cap. When I ordered mine, there were no options, so I asked Maxwell June to confirm that mine is the regular cap. Rob from Maxwell June advised: ‘The MJ that you have is our mid level of exposure. It is neutral. The EX is slightly positive and the SX is slightly negative. Both are marked on the top cap with these letters. We don’t change the blade gap between the different top caps’. I didn’t really want to hear that mine was neutral exposure, there’s nothing that can be done about it now, so I’ll check it out.

I could not help but notice the similarities to the cap on the Errolized version of the TRC Double Edged Razor and this one, wide machined flats (with some curvature). And the other part I like is the relief at of the back of the plate as I suggested for the TRC, no hole in the handle though. A drilled out end on the handle would have reduced the weight considerably and resulted in a razor that weighed in under the 100g threshold. Round blade posts are positioned on the cap, and these protrude through the plate to sit proud at the back of the plate. Long channels down each side of the plate clear the lather leaving a thin edge that looks vulnerable to knocks and bumps. Clamping of the blade is taken care of by a machined edge of the raised section of the plate in conjunction with the wide flat on the cap. With dry hands the grip of the handle is slippery, probably due to how shallow the knurling is, hopefully wet hands will assist with grip. There has been no further processing of the finish after being removed from the CNC machine, but it does present as a satin finish with very few machine marks visible on the outer surfaces, however machine marks on the inner sides of the head are displayed for the whole world to observe.

All my negativity and the doubts I exhibited regarding the use of a razor with neutral blade exposure were wiped away during the first stroke. This razor has a unique feel, different to any razor I’ve used previously, there was no sensation of the blade working, it simply wipes the whiskers away, so safe and comfortable, I really appreciated that. Efficiency was on the lower side of Karve CB level #D and the effectiveness of the shave must be experienced to be really appreciate. This is the smoothest and most comfortable razors it’s ever been my pleasure to use in a long time. There were no grip issues with the handle, but the whole razor would benefit from the handle being lighter, much lighter; this razor is crying out for a titanium handle. There is no need for me to go searching for an EX plate, the MS done all I require from a razor, but there is every chance I will chase one down to try. At some time I would like to see the release of a premium version of the Maxwell June with a drilled out or preferably, a titanium handle; if Maxwell June don’t do one, I might have to work on one for myself, this razor would reign supreme.

Blades Used – Kai and Gillette Platinum

Material – 316 Stainless Steel

Weight – 105.8g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 43.61mm

Handle Length – 83.90mm

Handle Diameter – 13.18mm

Availability – Maxwell June

Final Word – Superb shaver
Click to expand...
Amaring review . The design looks very elegant; I really like the head 👌
 
Errol said:
Maxwell June Double Edge (USA)



It’s a strange old game this buying first release razors, sometimes you can get burnt. On hearing of any razor release I like to be in early to get one from the first batch, that’s exactly what was done with this release from Maxwell June. Great, mine is on the way, then I’m advised that there are three different efficiency caps available, yes you read it right, Maxwell June adjust their efficiency level by swapping the cap. When I ordered mine, there were no options, so I asked Maxwell June to confirm that mine is the regular cap. Rob from Maxwell June advised: ‘The MJ that you have is our mid level of exposure. It is neutral. The EX is slightly positive and the SX is slightly negative. Both are marked on the top cap with these letters. We don’t change the blade gap between the different top caps’. I didn’t really want to hear that mine was neutral exposure, there’s nothing that can be done about it now, so I’ll check it out.

I could not help but notice the similarities to the cap on the Errolized version of the TRC Double Edged Razor and this one, wide machined flats (with some curvature). And the other part I like is the relief at of the back of the plate as I suggested for the TRC, no hole in the handle though. A drilled out end on the handle would have reduced the weight considerably and resulted in a razor that weighed in under the 100g threshold. Round blade posts are positioned on the cap, and these protrude through the plate to sit proud at the back of the plate. Long channels down each side of the plate clear the lather leaving a thin edge that looks vulnerable to knocks and bumps. Clamping of the blade is taken care of by a machined edge of the raised section of the plate in conjunction with the wide flat on the cap. With dry hands the grip of the handle is slippery, probably due to how shallow the knurling is, hopefully wet hands will assist with grip. There has been no further processing of the finish after being removed from the CNC machine, but it does present as a satin finish with very few machine marks visible on the outer surfaces, however machine marks on the inner sides of the head are displayed for the whole world to observe.

All my negativity and the doubts I exhibited regarding the use of a razor with neutral blade exposure were wiped away during the first stroke. This razor has a unique feel, different to any razor I’ve used previously, there was no sensation of the blade working, it simply wipes the whiskers away, so safe and comfortable, I really appreciated that. Efficiency was on the lower side of Karve CB level #D and the effectiveness of the shave must be experienced to be really appreciate. This is the smoothest and most comfortable razors it’s ever been my pleasure to use in a long time. There were no grip issues with the handle, but the whole razor would benefit from the handle being lighter, much lighter; this razor is crying out for a titanium handle. There is no need for me to go searching for an EX plate, the MS done all I require from a razor, but there is every chance I will chase one down to try. At some time I would like to see the release of a premium version of the Maxwell June with a drilled out or preferably, a titanium handle; if Maxwell June don’t do one, I might have to work on one for myself, this razor would reign supreme.

Blades Used – Kai and Gillette Platinum

Material – 316 Stainless Steel

Weight – 105.8g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 43.61mm

Handle Length – 83.90mm

Handle Diameter – 13.18mm

Availability – Maxwell June

Final Word – Superb shaver
Click to expand...
Superb review and very detailed @Errol . It is a unique design and has definitely drawn inspiration from a number of razors. I see a bit of the Yates base plate in there, a bit of the Drakkant and defintely the Errolized mod too. I think The MJ Barber Pole Handle and Ex top cap beckons next my friend.
 
Thanks for the review @Errol.
On, what is obviouslya fine razor and quite pleasing on the eye to boot..
Even the price according to the website is quite reasonable for a stainless steel razor made in the USA.
In that respect the MJ definitely takes it up to some of the much more expensive competitors in the market.
The MJ has definitely got my attention.
Looking forward to your next instalment as always
Cheers.
 
Holiday said:
@Errol, well done sir, you have enticed me with a temptation I cannot resist, and reignited RAD.
Are you happy with the length of the short handle?
Click to expand...
@Holiday I thought it had pulled back on DE shaving, so it’s good to see that the MJ has stimulated the process again. My ideal length for a handle is around the 85/ 90mm mark so this one is close. It is the weight that I see as the issue. I’d recommend a titanium handle for the razor.
 
Gillette 44 RFB (England)



I’m not a collector of Gillette razors therefore I do not go out of my way looking for them. However, occasionally I stumble across one that catches my attention and if everything is right, grab it. That’s exactly how I came to be in possession of this one, the Gillette 44 Raised Flat Bottom, thanks @Bladerunner7. With its period correct presentation box, blade holder and its silver plated handle, I’m pretty sure this is the real McCoy, a Gillette 44 RFB. Made in the 1930’s, this razor is an open comb, New. On its cap Gillette have used one long blade tab as well as corner tabs to align the blade and keep it from moving, that blade is staying straight with just about anything that happens to the razor. All the teeth are straight and the small amount of plating loss on the cap indicate that this razor has seen a little use, that’s only going to encourage me to put a blade through it. I can see no cracks in the ball end handle, but it does have a rather sloppy thread engagement. Let’s see how it shaves.

Bluntblade advised two completely different efficiency levels during our discussions on the 44 RFB so I wasn’t sure what to expect when I commenced using it. No need for any concern, the 44 RFB delivered a superb shave, only slightly on the high side of Karve CB level #C and with a well adjusted amount of positive blade. As the razor skimmed gently over the face, the teeth in the comb could be felt but it was a quite pleasant feel, nothing sharp or pointed to detract from the sensation. The shave itself was both smooth and comfortable, but I was a little disappointed that there was some razor burn for a short while after each shave. It’s little wonder that the Gillette Razor User Brigade are content with their lot and never want to use, or even try, their modern equivalent. I will never be a GRUB, but I did enjoy my time with the Gillette 44 RFB.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless and Gillette Platinum Plus

Material – Brass - plated

Weight – 56.9g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 40.71mm

Handle Length – 77.53mm

Handle Diameter – 9.57mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – A little beauty
 
Errol said:
Gillette 44 RFB (England)



I’m not a collector of Gillette razors therefore I do not go out of my way looking for them. However, occasionally I stumble across one that catches my attention and if everything is right, grab it. That’s exactly how I came to be in possession of this one, the Gillette 44 Raised Flat Bottom, thanks @Bladerunner7. With its period correct presentation box, blade holder and its silver plated handle, I’m pretty sure this is the real McCoy, a Gillette 44 RFB. Made in the 1930’s, this razor is an open comb, New. On its cap Gillette have used one long blade tab as well as corner tabs to align the blade and keep it from moving, that blade is staying straight with just about anything that happens to the razor. All the teeth are straight and the small amount of plating loss on the cap indicate that this razor has seen a little use, that’s only going to encourage me to put a blade through it. I can see no cracks in the ball end handle, but it does have a rather sloppy thread engagement. Let’s see how it shaves.

Bluntblade advised two completely different efficiency levels during our discussions on the 44 RFB so I wasn’t sure what to expect when I commenced using it. No need for any concern, the 44 RFB delivered a superb shave, only slightly on the high side of Karve CB level #C and with a well adjusted amount of positive blade. As the razor skimmed gently over the face, the teeth in the comb could be felt but it was a quite pleasant feel, nothing sharp or pointed to detract from the sensation. The shave itself was both smooth and comfortable, but I was a little disappointed that there was some razor burn for a short while after each shave. It’s little wonder that the Gillette Razor User Brigade are content with their lot and never want to use, or even try, their modern equivalent. I will never be a GRUB, but I did enjoy my time with the Gillette 44 RFB.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless and Gillette Platinum Plus

Material – Brass - plated

Weight – 56.9g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 40.71mm

Handle Length – 77.53mm

Handle Diameter – 9.57mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – A little beauty
Click to expand...
Great review (again) I’ve got the RFB from set #88 and put it right up there with my Gen 1 Aristocrat for vintage shaves and IMHO they both beat a lot of modern day razors in looks and quality of shave. Never thought or had heard of it before but I’d like to consider myself a GRUB 😂😂
Vintage Gillettes rule!!
 
Errol said:
Gillette 44 RFB (England)



I’m not a collector of Gillette razors therefore I do not go out of my way looking for them. However, occasionally I stumble across one that catches my attention and if everything is right, grab it. That’s exactly how I came to be in possession of this one, the Gillette 44 Raised Flat Bottom, thanks @Bladerunner7. With its period correct presentation box, blade holder and its silver plated handle, I’m pretty sure this is the real McCoy, a Gillette 44 RFB. Made in the 1930’s, this razor is an open comb, New. On its cap Gillette have used one long blade tab as well as corner tabs to align the blade and keep it from moving, that blade is staying straight with just about anything that happens to the razor. All the teeth are straight and the small amount of plating loss on the cap indicate that this razor has seen a little use, that’s only going to encourage me to put a blade through it. I can see no cracks in the ball end handle, but it does have a rather sloppy thread engagement. Let’s see how it shaves.

Bluntblade advised two completely different efficiency levels during our discussions on the 44 RFB so I wasn’t sure what to expect when I commenced using it. No need for any concern, the 44 RFB delivered a superb shave, only slightly on the high side of Karve CB level #C and with a well adjusted amount of positive blade. As the razor skimmed gently over the face, the teeth in the comb could be felt but it was a quite pleasant feel, nothing sharp or pointed to detract from the sensation. The shave itself was both smooth and comfortable, but I was a little disappointed that there was some razor burn for a short while after each shave. It’s little wonder that the Gillette Razor User Brigade are content with their lot and never want to use, or even try, their modern equivalent. I will never be a GRUB, but I did enjoy my time with the Gillette 44 RFB.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless and Gillette Platinum Plus

Material – Brass - plated

Weight – 56.9g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 40.71mm

Handle Length – 77.53mm

Handle Diameter – 9.57mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – A little beauty
Click to expand...

To see a beautiful version in its natural home -
1934%20NEW%20No44.JPG


I'm with @LesC in usually having this head on the #77 or #88 sets
 
Errol said:
I'm not so sure about that.
Click to expand...
I must say, I agree with you there @Errol
I love my humble collection of vintage Gillette as much as anybody but I reckon in recent years the bar has been raised a bit with DE and SE
razors
Especially with the advent of computerised design and CNC machining
Some of the DEs I have tried in recent years
Have definitely gone up a notch in smoothness and efficiency
Not the big improvement of modern razor blades over most of the vintage offerings.

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Vittoria said:
I must say, I agree with you there @Errol
I love my humble collection of vintage Gillette as much as anybody but I reckon in recent years the bar has been raised a bit with DE and SE
razors
Especially with the advent of computerised design and CNC machining
Some of the DEs I have tried in recent years
Have definitely gone up a notch in smoothness and efficiency
Not the big improvement of modern razor blades over most of the vintage offerings.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Well said mate. Vintage razors pack in ground breaking designs which have truly inspired the Modern day DE razors, they scream nostalgia and owning one is like possessing a precious part of shaving history no matter whether it be a simple Tech or an expensive Toggle. I've used vintage Gillettes, Swedish - Swing's, Matadors, Gibbs and Kirby Beard co offerings, have never had a nick or a weeper, always a smooth comfortable shave.

Having said all that, for me personally the Modern DE and even AC razors shave a lot closer and lean towards cutting edge (pun intended) perfection rather than just smoothness. There is no vintage that can shave as close as a Blackbird or or a Wolfman Wr2 1.55. For that matter, no vintage single edge can match the nimble character and perfect balance of head and handle like a Vector Ti, add to that its high efficiency. And no vintage can surpass the Stirling Hyper Aggressive as a one or one and a half pass razor. Even with adjustable razors, the engineering and true noticeable difference in the levels of a current day Rex Ambassador can trounce the very razor that inspired it.

To me the only razor personally that bridges the gap of modern day efficiency and old school design is the Atelier Durdan Le Maurice, love that razor to bits. Modern day razors are a extension of technology which is always progressive. I love the vintage ones when I need a mindless and relaxing shave or a walk down memory lane. But when I need the closest shave possible, I would lean on Modern razors.

This is not up for debate but just my personal experience with using vintage and modern day razors.
 
Vittoria said:
I must say, I agree with you there @Errol
I love my humble collection of vintage Gillette as much as anybody but I reckon in recent years the bar has been raised a bit with DE and SE
razors
Especially with the advent of computerised design and CNC machining
Some of the DEs I have tried in recent years
Have definitely gone up a notch in smoothness and efficiency
Not the big improvement of modern razor blades over most of the vintage offerings.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Well said mate. Vintage razors pack in ground breaking designs which have truly inspired the Modern day DE razors, they scream nostalgia and owning one is like possessing a precious part of shaving history no matter whether it be a simple Tech or an expensive Toggle. I've used vintage Gillettes, Swedish - Swing's, Matadors, Gibbs and Kirby Beard co offerings, have never had a nick or a weeper, always a smooth comfortable shave.

Having said all that, for me personally the Modern DE and even AC razors shave a lot closer and lean towards cutting edge (pun intended) perfection rather than just smoothness. There is no vintage that can shave as close as a Blackbird or or a Wolfman Wr2 1.55. For that matter, no vintage single edge can match the nimble character and perfect balance of head and handle like a Vector Ti, add to that its high efficiency. And no vintage can surpass the Stirling Hyper Aggressive as a one or one and a half pass razor. Even with adjustable razors, the engineering and true noticeable difference in the levels of a current day Rex Ambassador can trounce the very razor that inspired it.

To me the only razor personally that bridges the gap of modern day efficiency and old school design is the Atelier Durdan Le Maurice, love that razor to bits. Modern day razors are a extension of technology which is always progressive. I love the vintage ones when I need a mindless and relaxing shave or a walk down memory lane. But when I need the closest shave possible, I would lean on Modern razors.

This is not up for debate but just my personal experience with using vintage and modern day razors.
 
Wilde & Harte Eltham (England)



Mae West was pin up girl for the allied forces during WW2; this is my Mae West, my pin up razor. That hexagonal sculptured handle with the with the bulbous forward section of the handle looks stunning. That flowing hexagonally sectioned handle and an impeccable mirror polished finish set this razor apart from mere razors. Although I’ve had this razor for about seven or eight years, I’ve never considered using it, being put off by the thought that the head looked like it was plated zinc, although it was advertised as being stainless steel when it was purchased. In general magnets and stainless steel don’t go into immediate passionate attraction when they meet but maybe there might be enough love shown between the Eltham head and my little horseshoe magnet to lite a bit of a spark. Bloody nothing, however in contrast, there was a small kiss on the cheek when the handle and magnet got together. For the purpose of this exercise, I’m christening the head stainless steel and getting on with checking its performance. There are two blade clamping rails on the top of the plate that are set well inside the width of the blade resulting in a wide section of unsupported blade. A convex end profile and a concave underside to the plate do a great job in keeping its weight down, and to complete the plate, its edge is scalloped. Please note that the head of this razor differs from the current Eltham model on offer, the head of this older Eltham is a completely changed design.

Ergonomic is not a word that comes readily to mind while shaving with the Eltham. It’s just as well the Wilde and Harte handle has the looks because it rates as one of the most uncomfortable handles I’ve had the misfortune to encounter. That bulbous forward section of the handle is wide and is easily grasped between the forefinger and thumb, but the tail end is so thin that the two little fingers are grasping thin air in their attempt to find it. It got the job done. In contrast, the shave wasn’t bad, in fact it was pretty good, fractionally under Karve CB Level #D efficiency and a spot-on amount of positive blade. If it wasn’t for the handle, this razor has all the right credentials to deliver my kind of shave, and it did. In fairness to the handle, I never once considered swapping it out and as muscle memory adjusted to its idiosyncrasies, it felt better. I wish now that I hadn’t been so pig headed and had used the Eltham earlier, it performed.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless and Personna Prep

Material – Stainless Steel

Blade Tab - Exposed

Weight – 112g

Head Width – 41.41mm

Handle Length – 94.5mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – Stunning looks
 
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