Brush:- Frank Shaving Pure Badger 23mm
Soap:- Stirling - Executive Man
A+
for effort and commitment 
Soap:- Stirling - Executive Man
A+
for effort and commitment -
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Lather Shots
- Thread starter alfredus
- Start date
OK, I had time this morning...
Stirling + Forgotten Art "Southern Skies" 30mm Snow Leopard
Stirling + Forgotten Art "Southern Skies" 30mm Snow Leopard
chilliman64
... bring the fattened calf and kill it.
never have I ever - seen lather that looks like that...OK, this is a lather shot from my Lather guru - the same guy who posted the above mentioned lather videos - with Esbjerg CREAM
So no excuses - post a picture of that shiny lather
alfredus
Auctioneer-in-Chief + organises many group buys
Staff member
Site Moderator
State Convenor - SA
Grand Society
Group Buy Caporegime
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You should trynever have I ever - seen lather that looks like that...
Third pass, TOBS and Yaqi synth. Expensive gear not required...
alfredus
Auctioneer-in-Chief + organises many group buys
Staff member
Site Moderator
State Convenor - SA
Grand Society
Group Buy Caporegime
Charity Auction Team
PB you must share your knowledge and technique with the rest of us wannabe lathermeisters. I thought the shiny yoghurty perfection was coming from your soaps but see you achieve it with all soaps
Pbgoose
Active Member
Of course it comes from my soaps
but it is possible with other soaps too. @alfredus pointed out this video and I basically aim at that. Don't always get it especially if I'm in a hurry and care factor is down......
I bowl lather but the principal is the same. Start with the correct amount of water in your brush (not too wet) and start lathering on the soap whether it be in bowl or on puck and as the proto lather forms just gradually add small amounts water and keep lathering. Takes time but you avoid getting an overaerated lather. A creamier thicker lather is nicer and gives better cushion and glide which is the reward for the time spent. The shine is the result of not over aerating and hydrating the lather sufficiently. If you push the hydration too far chasing the shiny then the lather can loose performance.
Some soaps lend themselves to 'the shiny' more than other soaps but regardless I think that technique helps to get the best out of a soap.
Of course it comes from my soaps
@alfredus pointed out this video and I basically aim at that. Don't always get it especially if I'm in a hurry and care factor is down......
I bowl lather but the principal is the same. Start with the correct amount of water in your brush (not too wet) and start lathering on the soap whether it be in bowl or on puck and as the proto lather forms just gradually add small amounts water and keep lathering. Takes time but you avoid getting an overaerated lather. A creamier thicker lather is nicer and gives better cushion and glide which is the reward for the time spent. The shine is the result of not over aerating and hydrating the lather sufficiently. If you push the hydration too far chasing the shiny then the lather can loose performance.
Some soaps lend themselves to 'the shiny' more than other soaps but regardless I think that technique helps to get the best out of a soap.
Thanks PB what about quantity, do you scoop a small amount into the bowl or load brush and take to bowl?
Pbgoose
Active Member
I've been using a kiwi cutter to scoop about 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon of soap then paste it into the bottom of the bowl. It's a habit I got into as I wanted to keep my pucks clean so I could sample off them for family/friends. Consequently I've never developed any skill in 'loading' a brush and have come to prefer bowl lathering as I feel it gives more control. Also I find the soap tubs confining, I like plenty of space, hence my Robyn Bloom bowl (spaghetti bowl as you referred to it
) has become a favourite. The down side is if you overload the bowl to start with then there is soap wastage but that's not an issue for me as I've got plenty (though probably not in the realms of @SpeedyPC 's legendary soap stash).
