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WEEKLY SHAVING SOAP REVIEW

WILLIAMS MUG SHAVING SOAP​

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First Look - An illustration of a shaving mug with exploding lather and a brush inverted into it, one of the most recognizable images in the wet shaving world. As a child I often thought that little box contained instant sachets that could magically turn water into a root beer float. The blue and white color box which contains the shaving soap puck inside may look simple but remains one a fine work of branding excellence.

Side note – 22 year old James Baker Williams founded Williams & Brothers in 1840 when he developed Williams Genuine Yankee soap with just eight employees to aid him in the manufacturing process. in 1860 the company grew to 14 employees with the men mixing the compounds, boiling the tallow, and pressing the soap into bars, while the women wrapped and labelled the soaps. It was one of the first factories to hire women.
By 1885, the company changed its name for the third time to J. B. Williams Company with shaving creams, talcum powder and other toiletries added to their list of products. In 1917 the first Ice Blue After shave was launched which would become Aqua Velva, it was ten years after founder J B Wiliams passed away. In 1957 Pharmaceuticals, Inc in New Yourk bought the company only to sell it to Nabisco in 1971. While Aqua Velva was bought by Combe Incorporated eventually, The Williams Mug Soap was acquired by the Beechma group from Nabisco and was to be discontinued in 2015. An outcry from the soap’s loyalists saw the puck walk a few more miles miles more before breathing its last between 2022 and 2025

First Whiff – According to die-hard fans of the product, the Williams Mug Shaving Soap is supposed to have a mild, clean, and slightly citrusy scent that is masculine in its projection, a few even pick up a bergamot note. I’m a fan of citrus based fragrances and bergamot, so much that Earl Grey remains my favorite tea blend. At first whiff I got none of the notes described, it just came across as a weak detergent like fragrance . So I took a second whiff and it and my fairlysensitive nose was unable to pick up anything, nothing floral, citrus or even lavender in there. Even most dish washing soaps pack in a better scent. I put this down to the soap being fairly old and figured that it would smell better when lathered.

First Lather – I have used the reformulated Williams Mug Soap in the past and wasn’t impressed with it at all. Having said that, I have to thank my buddy Jeff for giving me one of his precious old formula Williams Mug Soaps, in an effort to change my mind. While the reformulated version had Sodium Tallowate listed as the second ingredient, the Canadian made one I was using has tallow as the first. The list of ingredients is listed as Tallow, Stearic Acid, Water, Coconut Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Fragrance, Titanium Dioxide and Isopropyl Cresols. With great expectations I proceeded to build a lather using a teaspoon of soap, my Yaqi Rainbow Pony synthetic, the HC & Co SS bowl and two tablespoons of water. A sixty second brush swirling produced an airy foam. Having worked with the new formula I guessed the old one would be thirstier with the healthy dose of tallow, so two more tablespoons of water and 90 seconds of brush swirling followed. That bubbly foam was still there but a bit thicker. I let the soap rest for a minute before I added another two tablespoons of water and worked at the soap for 120 seconds, only then did I notice that the lather had transformed into a nice rich and dense looking product which sadly, still smelled like a weak detergent. I was impressed with the lather quality and it was a lot richer than the reformulated product.

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First Performance – The history of the iconic shaving soap, the fan boyism and the rareness of the tallow rich version had me excited about the shave ahead. While painting the strokes on my face though even with the dense lather, it felt like any ordinary bath soap. By the time I started my first pass using my Goodfellas Bayonetta and a Gillette Platinum, the lather had started to dissipate. I got through the first pass with a contrasting feeling, the residual slickness was there but the shave felt a bit rough. A second pass saw me finish with a DFS but for the first time I felt the Bayonetta to be an aggressive shaver. Post shave my skin felt a bit dry and tender at the same time. That dense lather was also a frail version of its former self . The so called Tallow rich version performed exactly like the reformulated one with average residual slickness but below average cushion and protection. To prove myself wrong I had two more disappointing shaves with the soap before I gratefully returned it to its owner.

First Opinion – Williams Mug Shaving Soap which once sold for about one US Dollar, now commands prices of 10 to 40 USD, a high price to pay for nostalgia and it still has loyal fans and soap hoarders who protect their precious little pucks with their dear life. At its original price point it was the best value shaving soap that delivered the goods in a humble manner. As for me personally, with all the amazing Artisan soaps available today, paying top dollar for the Mug shaving soap is akin to me buying a sharp stone to shave with over a Blackland Blackbird or a Karve Overlander.

Cover Art Work – 6 / 10

Lather Quality – 6 / 10

Fragrance – 3 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 4 / 10

Slickness – 5 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 4 / 10

Value – 10 / 10 ( At it’s original price point)

Total Point Score – 38 / 70

Availability – Discontinued but available on the Bay at high prices.
 
OFFICINA ARTIGIANA - OLI DEL BENESSERE (ITALY)

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First Look - When I received my first Officina Artigiana Oli De Benessere or ODB, It felt like I was holding a glass jar of expensive facial Moisturiser for men, it reminded me a bit of Razorock’s Dead Sea and Santa Maria Del Fiore Firenze as well. Unlike the Razorock jars, this one looked classier and felt a larger somehow. The cover art is anything but eye catching with a minimalist design featuring the brand name and logo, shaving soap title and the country of manufacture. It could even pass off as a jar of homemade butter or some exotic Italian delicacy packed in it. Having said that, the whole jar and the box it comes in do look classy and at first glance you know this is a premium product.

Side note – I was familiar with Cella Milano, Omega, Proraso, Saponificio Varesino, Extro, and Abbate y La Mantia and Razorock but truthfully I had never heard of OA or Officina Artigiana. So, when my buddy Lee from Charmwise Malaysia recommended the soap a few months back, I thought it would be another Italian shaving product cast in the same mould as the above mentioned brands. To be fair, while it is, Officina Artigiana could well be Italy’s best kept secret, a brand known for their line of shaving soaps, aftershaves, eau de parfum, wellness oils, ventilated clay, Dead Sea salts, menthol crystals and their top selling B15 hyaluronic acid gel.

First Lather – Oli De Benessere translates to ‘Wellness Oils’ in English and it includes five of them, Argan Oil, Jojoba Oil, Almond Oil, Grapeseed Oil and Castor Oil. The mixture is said to be heat-treated 5 times and with 5 different stages of mixing the ingredients. Each vegetable fat is then processed with different times, phases and quantities through a complex manual procedure to ensure that the oils nourish the skin during and many hours after the shave. All claims aside, I proceeded to scoop out a teaspoon from the mix which appeared to look like grainy wet sand. Hang on, I had seen this kind of croap texture before… in Extro Cosmesi which my Dear friend Errol had sent me. I worked my Razorock Big Bruce brush in the Oaken lab ceramic bowl and figured that this soap is super thirsty. I went through four cycles of adding 12 drops of water while bowl lathering for 30 seconds each time and I was rewarded with a thick, really dense and luxurious lather.

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First Performance – The lather had me convinced but what about the actual shave performance? Every stroke of the brush on my face felt like I was providing my cheeks with skin food to pamper my face. I stopped a few times to inhale that fragrance, it was just addictive. First pass done and I could feel the slickness, not a lot of it but just enough. The cushion and protection on the other hand was so good that even my Ikon Tek with a Nacet blade felt smooth and less aggressive than normal. Two passes done and that’s when I believed the claim of 5 wellness oils each possessing a unique function of toning, moisturizing and revitalizing the skin. I’m going to skip the function of each oil to save this review from turning into an epic but my face felt amazing post shave and there was no need of an after shave balm or a splash, just cold water was good enough.

First Opinion – While this glass jar may lack the funky, new wave or psychedelic appearance of other shaving soap covers, Oli Del Benessere isn’t targeted at the young and carefree or casual audience. It is aimed at the sharp dressed male who values the way he looks and smells, the kind of sincere male that commands respect when he walks into a room. If you love Leather, it doesn’t get better than this. Scent qualities aside, this vegan soap not only matched it’s tallow cousins in performance but went a step ahead with its skin benefiting properties. My skin felt amazing and nourished till the next day. Officina Artigiana has four different soaps in its line up but for me ODB is the number one.

Cover Art Work – 6 / 10

Lather Quality – 8 / 10

Fragrance – 10 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 7 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 9 / 10

Value – 8 / 10

Total Point Score – 56 / 70
One of my favourite soaps.
 
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