Weekly Razor Review

Errol said:
Atelier Durdan Crinière Ardente (France)



Production stopped at twenty pieces only and with so many combinations available, this could be the most exclusive razor I’ve ever purchased. I’d been thinking about a le Maurice for a while and with one of the options being the Le Maurice head; tick. Just about every Atelier Durdan model option was available for selection and when combined with the various efficiency levels, this could well be the only Crinière Ardente made to this specification. Under the listing for the Cap were a multitude of options to choose from, so ordered the 1.6 / 1.1 (pour Le Maurice / N° 7). Sounds aggressive, but I’ve always found Atelier Durdan products to deliver a great shave and to be a little on the mild side. This razor is machined from bronze as a tribute to the Chinese Lunar New Year, the Fire Horse; the mainly sandblasted head has a polished pattern on the top of the cap to represent the horse’s mane flowing in the breeze. Setting the whole razor off, the Crinière Ardente comes with a padauk wood handle and bronze fittings. With no knowledge of Chinese, I have to accept that the scrawl on the end cap of the handle is ‘horse’ written in Chinese. I did try to unscrew the end cap by hand, but it was secure so I’m assuming that thread locker has been applied. When it comes to handles, wood is the number one choice for me at present. This handle is quite large, being over 17mm in diameter and 100mm long, yet the whole razor with all its bronze pieces weighs in at an impressive 75g. Wood provides a secure grip for shaving with no knurling, no grooves, just the undeniable beauty of natural wood displayed for everyone to see.

It’s been a while since I last sampled the Le Maurice and I had forgotten just how accomplished it is as a razor. I’ve been known to rave on how good the Numéro 7 is, but having now resampled the Le Maurice, I don’t know that there is a winner. Efficiency sat just under the Karve CB Level #D and with its ever so sweet positive blade, my time using the Le Maurice came to an all to soon conclusion. While I absolutely loved the wooden handled padauk with its natural red accent, I do have one minor complaint, it is too long. For me I would have liked to have seen it about 15mm shorter. Its large diameter helped hide its length, but on occasions the extra length got caught up. This is a fabulous razor that is available in its standard form without the added attention of the fiery horse detail, but I do recommend the wooden handle. Really enjoyed my time again with the Le Maurice.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Glatz Super Platinum
Material – Bronze – Handle padauk
Weight – 74.6g
Blade Tab – Covered
Head Width – 43.02mm
Handle Length – 100.13mm
Handle Diameter – 17.38mm
Availability – Limited Edition
Final Word – Superb
Click to expand...
I am awaiting mine. I went back and forth between Maurice or Numero 7. Because I enjoy blade feel i ordered the 1.1 Numero 7.
 
Blackland Osprey Ti (USA)



The Osprey adjustable razor with its unique adjustment system was the big-ticketed item for Blackland in 2023; I had to check the date too, it only seems like a couple of weeks ago. Like many, I purchased the 303 stainless steel version in a machine finish from the first release. Big mistake, what a piss poor presentation for a supposedly top tier razor that was. A rough as guts machine finish, combined with sharp edges and no attempt to clean anything up; I vowed then and there that I would never again purchase another machine finished razor from Blackland. There was no way on earth that when I went to order this Osprey titanium it was going to have anything but a polished finish. When rotating the adjuster, it is firm for the first three numbers and then really tightens as the adjuster increased towards the higher settings to stop and not move past the #7 setting; the adjuster settings are marked from #1 through to #9. I know from using the stainless steel version that the Osprey is a weapon from setting #8 up and it is unlikely that I would be using those settings, but I paid for a full range of setting, so they should be available. This razor was purchased in the Black Friday Sales, a good 18 months after the initial batch of razors were released, and like the original batch, the engraved setting numbers are faint, despite the Blackland claim that the font has been enlarged and engraved deeper. It also explains why highlighting filler for the engraving was not an option when I went to purchase, the engraving was too shallow. A brass slug is inserted in the hollow handle, and while this slug is advertised as being removable, I never tried to take it out. In its polished form all the sharp edges have been removed which in turn has markedly improved the Osprey’s presentation.

Expecting trouble with distinguishing the setting numbers, I made sure I had my glasses with me for every shave. If the light just happened to catch the number while I moved the razor in my fingers I could sometimes make it out; getting pissed off quickly with this, I can tell you. As I was fitting the first blade, the adjuster decided to go on strike, spat the dummy and decided to stop at setting #6, it had to be forced to make #7, I’m just loving this, like hell I am! Now I will start at setting #7, and regress down the scale; that’s if something else doesn’t interfere with proceedings. Setting #7 and just as I had it recorded for the stainless steel version, Karve CB level #D efficiency but with more blade feel than I remember. Setting #6, fat chance of that, the rotator would not budge with wet hands; gripped and with extra assistance form a handkerchief wrapped around the adjuster, I managed to coax it back to #6. I had the same efficiency on setting #6 but the blade feel was a whole lot more manageable. Out with the handkerchief for every setting down the scale until I got to setting #3 and by then it was like trying to shave with the underside of a spoon, but I could rotate the adjuster. What an over-rated, over-priced heap of junk, it is nothing short of abysmal.
  • #1 - #2 – Useless
  • #3 – Not much better than useless
  • #4 – Karve CB Level #C
  • #5 – Karve CB Level #C plus
  • #6 – Karve CB Level # D
  • #7 – Karve CB Level #D – abundance of blade feel
  • #8 – #9 - Not available
Blades Used – Glatz Super Platinum and Gillette Super Thin
Material – Titanium
Weight – 65.3g
Blade Tab – Covered
Head Width – 42.79mm
Handle Length – 81.87mm
Handle Diameter – 12.42mm
Availability – Blackland
Final Word – A horses’ arse
 
Errol said:
Blackland Osprey Ti (USA)



The Osprey adjustable razor with its unique adjustment system was the big-ticketed item for Blackland in 2023; I had to check the date too, it only seems like a couple of weeks ago. Like many, I purchased the 303 stainless steel version in a machine finish from the first release. Big mistake, what a piss poor presentation for a supposedly top tier razor that was. A rough as guts machine finish, combined with sharp edges and no attempt to clean anything up; I vowed then and there that I would never again purchase another machine finished razor from Blackland. There was no way on earth that when I went to order this Osprey titanium it was going to have anything but a polished finish. When rotating the adjuster, it is firm for the first three numbers and then really tightens as the adjuster increased towards the higher settings to stop and not move past the #7 setting; the adjuster settings are marked from #1 through to #9. I know from using the stainless steel version that the Osprey is a weapon from setting #8 up and it is unlikely that I would be using those settings, but I paid for a full range of setting, so they should be available. This razor was purchased in the Black Friday Sales, a good 18 months after the initial batch of razors were released, and like the original batch, the engraved setting numbers are faint, despite the Blackland claim that the font has been enlarged and engraved deeper. It also explains why highlighting filler for the engraving was not an option when I went to purchase, the engraving was too shallow. A brass slug is inserted in the hollow handle, and while this slug is advertised as being removable, I never tried to take it out. In its polished form all the sharp edges have been removed which in turn has markedly improved the Osprey’s presentation.

Expecting trouble with distinguishing the setting numbers, I made sure I had my glasses with me for every shave. If the light just happened to catch the number while I moved the razor in my fingers I could sometimes make it out; getting pissed off quickly with this, I can tell you. As I was fitting the first blade, the adjuster decided to go on strike, spat the dummy and decided to stop at setting #6, it had to be forced to make #7, I’m just loving this, like hell I am! Now I will start at setting #7, and regress down the scale; that’s if something else doesn’t interfere with proceedings. Setting #7 and just as I had it recorded for the stainless steel version, Karve CB level #D efficiency but with more blade feel than I remember. Setting #6, fat chance of that, the rotator would not budge with wet hands; gripped and with extra assistance form a handkerchief wrapped around the adjuster, I managed to coax it back to #6. I had the same efficiency on setting #6 but the blade feel was a whole lot more manageable. Out with the handkerchief for every setting down the scale until I got to setting #3 and by then it was like trying to shave with the underside of a spoon, but I could rotate the adjuster. What an over-rated, over-priced heap of junk, it is nothing short of abysmal.
  • #1 - #2 – Useless
  • #3 – Not much better than useless
  • #4 – Karve CB Level #C
  • #5 – Karve CB Level #C plus
  • #6 – Karve CB Level # D
  • #7 – Karve CB Level #D – abundance of blade feel
  • #8 – #9 - Not available
Blades Used – Glatz Super Platinum and Gillette Super Thin
Material – Titanium
Weight – 65.3g
Blade Tab – Covered
Head Width – 42.79mm
Handle Length – 81.87mm
Handle Diameter – 12.42mm
Availability – Blackland
Final Word – A horses’ arse
Click to expand...
"What an over-rated, over-priced heap of junk, it is nothing short of abysmal ... Final Word – A horses’ arse."

Another great and detailed review from @Errol, with a sadly predictible conclusion. Thanks mate. :cry:
 
Errol said:
...the adjuster decided to go on strike, spat the dummy and decided to stop at setting #6, it had to be forced to make #7, I’m just loving this, like hell I am! ... Setting #6, fat chance of that, the rotator would not budge with wet hands; gripped and with extra assistance form a handkerchief wrapped around the adjuster...
Click to expand...
Maybe the thing is meant to be adjusted with a pair of vise-grips or a pipe wrench? :unsure:
 
klinker said:
"What an over-rated, over-priced heap of junk, it is nothing short of abysmal ... Final Word – A horses’ arse."

Another great and detailed review from @Errol, with a sadly predictible conclusion. Thanks mate. :cry:
Click to expand...

Having purchased, tried for a while, and returned for a refund, the machine finished stainless steel version some years ago, I wasn't fixing to buy the titanium version. Still, your review was much appreciated.

My beard is of average density, composed of tough, old-man whiskers. My skin is a bit on the sensitive side. Generally I prefer mild razors but I also want a close, long lasting shave. I've used my 2021 Sailor MC on every possible setting, finding it smooth throughout its huge range, but mostly prefer its very low very mild settings. The Osprey's very low settings were attractive to me, but there were too many downsides.

The Osprey handle was too slippery to adjust intrashave when either it was wet or my hands were. Basically, intrashave adjustments were impossible. Besides that, the adjustment settings disappeared without my eyeglasses.

The shaves were pretty good, but not universally high end. There were subjective and objective deal breakers. Just making the adjustment markings visible would have been a huge improvement. Why Blackland failed to accomplish this with the titanium version is beyond me.

Had I been able to see the numbers on its adjustment dial without my eyeglasses I might have been able to figure out a way to make the Osprey useful for me, but I couldn't. That certainly wasn't the only problem. Were any of them fixed with the titanium version?

Errol, you didn't save me any money, but I enjoyed and appreciate your review.

I'm one of those Americans who visit this forum almost entirely for your reviews. I don't agree with everything you say probably because we have different whiskers, skin, and needs, but bought the Stormbreaker on your advice and am glad I did. Thank you.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
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