• Domain Change - We have moved to https://paste-and-cut.com as our new domain.

    If you are using shortcuts or bookmarks for the old paste-and-cut.com.au domain, you need to update these or they will cease working from the 25th January, 2025. Please check the notice post for more details on this change to the forum.

Vintage Yardley Shaving Soap

O

otblue

Member
Most of the Yardley Shaving soap I've seen on eBay came in bowls.
$_57.JPG

There are also some in what are described as boxes as shown in the image above.
Anyone know what the difference is?. Perhaps the boxed ones are just the refills.
 
Looks like a very cheap and flimsy box. My guess would be refill too.

What is this sudden fascination amongst shaving tragics (present company excluded) for vintage soaps?
 
Great performance :)
 
Mark1966 said:
Great performance :)
Click to expand...
Want some vintage Colgate soap? I'll use the tin but the soap just smells of soap to me and I know I won't use it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
eggbert said:
Want some vintage Colgate soap? I'll use the tin but the soap just smells of soap to me and I know I won't use it.
Click to expand...
Why not melt a few crystals into it ?
Will add some scent and a cooling aspect too.
 
Mark1966 said:
Great performance :)
Click to expand...
eggbert said:
Looks like a very cheap and flimsy box. My guess would be refill too.

What is this sudden fascination amongst shaving tragics (present company excluded) for vintage soaps?
Click to expand...

Vintage Yardley has such a great reputation that when an NOS puck came up at a realistic price I just had to get it.

Will use it soon and report back.

The only downside (or maybe a downside) is that my wife says the scent (which I can't real smell other than soap) reminds her of her late mothers Yardleys cosmetics.

We shall see;)
 
otblue said:
Vintage Yardley has such a great reputation that when an NOS puck came up at a realistic price I just had to get it.

...
Click to expand...

NOS puck at a reasonable price - how did I miss that!!!

Oh, that is right, I've stopped searching as I have a few ...

Now, how am I going to preserve and protect that paper label on the bare wood bowl ???
 
""Oh, that is right, I've stopped searching as I have a few ...""
Wondered why I got it so easily:)

""Now, how am I going to preserve and protect that paper label on the bare wood bowl ???""
Clear Mylar (polyester) bag with an oxygen absorber. Avoid UV.
 
Mark1966 said:
NOS puck at a reasonable price - how did I miss that!!!

Oh, that is right, I've stopped searching as I have a few ...

Now, how am I going to preserve and protect that paper label on the bare wood bowl ???
Click to expand...

10 Metres of bubble wrap (to save breakage) followed by at least 10 metres of black plastic wrap you could then possibly get a really really big cyrovac bag and put it in and remove all air. (or alternatively you could just use it :)
 
I want to use it AND preserve it people - it is such a cool bowl and label :)
 
If you intend to use it then you're not expecting it to maintain it's full "collector" value except for your own collection.
In that case I would dip the cover with label into a satin polyurethane varnish. It needs to be really dry first and it only needs a thin coating.
Does result in a surface coating that can seen but will last for many decades while protecting the label.
The bowl just needs oiling from time to time. Oil won't work on the lid because it will eventually lift the label.

The alternative is to lift the label, dry it out and saturate it with something like supaglue (while not sticking your fingers together). Once dry the label is impervious to moisture or oil.
The lid can then be oiled and the now dry and protected label reapplied anytime you want.
 
otblue said:
If you intend to use it then you're not expecting it to maintain it's full "collector" value except for your own collection.
In that case I would dip the cover with label into a satin polyurethane varnish. It needs to be really dry first and it only needs a thin coating.
Does result in a surface coating that can seen but will last for many decades while protecting the label.
The bowl just needs oiling from time to time. Oil won't work on the lid because it will eventually lift the label.

The alternative is to lift the label, dry it out and saturate it with something like supaglue (while not sticking your fingers together). Once dry the label is impervious to moisture or oil.
The lid can then be oiled and the now dry and protected label reapplied anytime you want.
Click to expand...

Yes - I want to use AND retain the look of the bowl. My only concern with the polyurethane is that the label will bubble or otherwise be damaged.
 
Well that is what I thought @Dale.Whiley - but @gthomas04 has me worried now - better grab those worry beads again :)

Anyway - Back on Topic - will a polyurethane damage the label?
 
I sacrificed a C&E label last night in an experiment to find out.
Painted it gently with a THIN coat of a free flowing superglue. Just used a cheap nameless brand. Don't use a gel.
The glue penetrated the label much better than a polyurethane would and dried very quickly to a semi matte finish which is barely noticeable and only if viewed at certain angles.
Highly water resistant and I can't imagine the label ever lifing or buckling now.
Left the wood ala naturale and will just oil it if ever necessary.
I'd recommend experimenting with technique before using on the vintage label.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top