Raul S
Member
Saponificio Varesino – 80th Anniversary
Over the ten years that have elapsed since my first encounter with the products of this renowned Italian manufacturer, many sets featuring distinctive fragrances have contributed to the ritual of traditional wet shaving. A few months ago, upon hearing the news of the launch of the Saponificio Varesino 80th Anniversary Set, I was overcome by a mélange of fond memories associated with the previous anniversary edition (70) and an irresistible desire to discover what was new.
The youngest member of the Saponificio Varesino family steps onto the scene dressed in attire reminiscent of his elder brother, who is ten years his senior. Ultimately, however, what truly matters is his performance from both a mechanical and an olfactory standpoint. With the same loading time and lathering process, the triple-milled soap absorbs a slightly greater amount of water than its siblings. The resulting lather has a consistency remarkably close to that of the established 4.3 version. The same can be said of its volume. Protection remains unchanged, retaining the characteristics typical of the aforementioned version. A slight improvement can be detected in primary glide, secondary glide and post-shave hydration.
The aftershave lotion comes in a different colour and with a lower viscosity than its sister, Argania. The organic alcohol in the formulation significantly diminishes the sensation of burning. This has a positive impact on the post-application experience, owing to faster absorption into the skin and improved hydration. I can genuinely feel that this liquid nourishes my skin considerably more effectively.
Fragrance quality is one of the manufacturer's great strengths. The 80th Anniversary Edition naturally carries the duty of keeping the bar high. It succeeds in meeting olfactory expectations—and, I would say, with considerable aplomb. Its longevity of around four to five hours, its high initial intensity during the first hour after application—which naturally diminishes over time—and its sillage of approximately one metre indoors all ensure that this new addition to the Italian manufacturer's family lives up to its pedigree. I believe the fragrance of the SV 80 shaving range deserves to be worn throughout the year, with the sole exception of the sweltering days of summer. So far, so good.
The Italians have created a fragrance in its own right. It was only upon contact with the epidermis that I truly appreciated its beauty. Immediately after the aftershave is applied to the skin, the fleeting nature of the citrus notes becomes apparent. This brief opening gives way to lavender enveloped in woody accords. These woody notes eagerly absorb the citrus facets. I am particularly pleased that the atmosphere never becomes smoky, heavy or oppressive. Instead, it remains firmly on an invigorating, energy-giving trajectory. Even the myrrh, with its distinctive balsamic and subtly smoky character, integrates seamlessly into the composition. It is merely passing through. As the fragrance develops, I can sense it acting as a bridge between the heart and base notes. Up to this stage, its character has been distinctly fougère-woody.
As the fragrance reaches its base notes, the woody character takes on oriental nuances. Vanilla begins to make its presence felt. Interestingly, although fragrances containing vanilla tend to become more pronounced on my skin, the aroma of this particular creation remains harmoniously interwoven. In other words, vanilla does not dominate the composition. It asserts itself with considerably greater authority in Argania. Certain elements may indeed evoke memories of the aforementioned set.
The scent of the 80th Anniversary Edition offers freshness, but of a different kind from the classic fougère with its green, vegetal mantle and all the associated nuances. The composition is a harmonious interplay of the luminous facets of weightier ingredients—woods, resins and ambered accords. From the very first inhalation, the scent of the set reminded me of something similar from the mainstream fragrance world. Unfortunately, I could not identify the particular creation. Curiosity prompted me to seek out other opinions in an attempt to narrow down the time spent searching. On an external forum, someone compared it to Bleu de Chanel. At the perfumeries I visited, only Bleu de Chanel Parfum was available for testing. After applying two sprays, I can say that the SV 80 fragrance differs from Bleu de Chanel Parfum. Given the numerous versions and reformulations that have been released over the years, perhaps one of them bears a closer resemblance.
I was pleasantly surprised by the thought that went into the fragrance of this set. Kudos, Saponificio Varesino!
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