Thank you for that info.
Quite frankly, I fail to see the point of shaving if I don't.
I CdM every shave
Quite frankly, I fail to see the point of shaving if I don't.
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I CdM every shave
You have got me thinking. I have a few spare Taiwanese SRs and @Gargravarr has provided me with some lovely flame figured European maple for scales. I am very tempted to modify one of the SRs into a shorty. If I did, I would probably go for an edge length of about 55mm to 60mm.I have been lamenting to myself that the Chinese razors I'm starting with are all too long. It makes me nervous focusing on a section of the razor and forgetting about the other parts. Really wishing I joined in time for your short English Kamisori PIF.
@rbscebu and I'm sure apart from myself, others would gladly take it of your hands when completedYou have got me thinking. I have a few spare Taiwanese SRs and @Gargravarr has provided me with some lovely flame figured European maple for scales. I am very tempted to modify one of the SRs into a shorty. If I did, I would probably go for an edge length of about 55mm to 60mm.
I'm so tempted that I have already unpinned a SR ready for this project. It's a fairly beefy 6/8 half hollow. Will probably go for a French point and grind a bit of a thumb hollow into the shank.
Don't worry about it. The only test that really matters is the shave test.Another reason I'm interested in a shorter razor is that I'm learning to shave, strop, hone at the same time. I found that honing all the way to the toe difficult, and doing TNT near the toe difficult as well. After (I think) my razor is ready to shave, I can't seem to HHT to the same degree in the 2-3 mm at the toe as the rest of the razor.
Others have mentioned that Chinese razors have a bit of warp at the toe. I'm not sure if it's my pressure management or a slight warp I haven't detected.