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Weekly Razor Review

Muhle R41 GS - Stainless Steel (Germany)



I ordered the Muhle R41 GS from Muhle USA and they were going to supply a set of cuff links. Sorry Sir, we have run out of cuff links so we are sending you a $25 after shave balm. Somehow, Muhle must have read my pedigree, I’ll get far more use out of a can of shave balm than I ever will out of a set of cuff links. On the tenth anniversary of the release of their venerable R41 model, Muhle presented their own stainless steel version of the great razor. Earlier versions of the Muhle R41 were chrome plated zinc and for years there were calls for a stainless steel version, now Muhle have delivered.

Visually the only difference I could determine between the plated zinc versions and stainless steel version was that the stainless steel version actually has a superior shine. Having said that, the underside of the cap and the top of the plate have a satin finish. I went looking for machining marks and the only place I could see what looked like a machine mark was in the recess at the back of the plate. There’s a long lather groove on each side of the plate and of course the scalloped edge, round blade posts on the cap, but like I’ve mentioned, no changes to the zinc version. It was a pleasant surprise just how solid the handle felt, I was expecting a much lighter handle, however the knurling was found to be a wanting, it is both shallow and slippery. It even appears that the handle may well have an electroplated finish but I’m not sure.

Well, surprise, surprise, the delivered shave felt very similar to its zinc sibling but with a bit more blade feel. There is no denying how close the Muhle R41 GS shaves and for such an aggressive razor the feel is reasonable smooth. Muhle have sacrificed functionality for appearances on the R41 GS handle making it the slipperiest handle it has been my misfortune to use in ages. Wet, dry, it just performed badly. That ability to confidently control the GS has probably led me to believe there is more blade feel than there actually is and diminished my enthusiasm for the R41 GS. With my collection being primarily machined stainless steel razors, it may come as a surprise when I say I enjoyed the shave from the zinc R41 more.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Triton
Material –
Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 114g
Head Width – 42.28mm
Handle Length – 98.91mm
Handle Diameter – 13.9mm
Availability – In most great razor supply shops
Final Word – Performance

I find your reviews informative and balanced - thank you. Muhle have also released a LE Titanium R41 available at their London and Berlin stores only, it comes in at about 65g. The handle knurling is also shallow, though personally, I do not find this an issue. I find it a great shaver, but as with your conclusion with the GS, I find the Titanium does not better their zinc alloy R41.
 
Above The Tie X1 Single Edge Slant - Kronos (USA)



Above The Tie have released their version of a SE slant that as far as I’m aware is the first ever SE slant. When compared to a DE blade, a SE blade is longer, thicker and a lot narrower. It therefore stands to reason that it is going to be difficult to twist a SE blade to any extent. ATT also realised that a SE blades cannot be easily twisted and simply aligned the blade at an angle to the handle to achieve a slant; there is no twisting tension applied to the blade what so ever. At first, the slant in the head of the X1 was not noticed and I done a double take to ensure that there was indeed some angle change; it’s there all right, not much, but it’s there. To add to the confusion, the bottom of the plate is completely flat and set at 90 degrees to the handle, the blade angle is altered by a tapered flat machined into one side of the plate with the cap matching the flat to form an angled head. I do not have any method of measuring the angle but can see that it is not much. It’s the familiar Kronos handle that was chosen for the X1 Slant and the whole razor is presented in a sandblasted finished. ATT razors have a distinctive look to them, take one look at the X1, and it certainly fits that ATT mould right down to its primitive look, I just hope it shaves as good as previous ATT’s.



Because there is no twisting of the SE blade, loading the blades into the X1 was a simple matter of placing the blade onto the elongated blade posts on the cap, and clamping everything down. All loaded, so let’s see how an angled blade in a SE razor goes about its business. In true ATT tradition, the shave felt good; about Karve CB Level #D efficiency and with a pleasing amount of blade feel and a razor fitted with a Kronos length handle is always nice to maneuver. In no way is the razor at all responsible for the quality of the first shave with the Schick P-30 blade, it was terrible; not just for the first couple of strokes but for the first pass (and a bit) as the blade pulled and tugged its way to the finish. All the other shaves were very smooth; therefore, the fault is pointed squarely at the blade. SE’s have a reputation for delivering close shaves and the X1 upheld its end in the close shave department. There are many similarities between shaving with a DE and shaving with a SE but there are variances that make SE shaving a different experience; not better. There’s just something about shaving with a SE so it’s good to swap around every now and then. ATT’s X1 performed very well but then again so do then the other SE offerings from ATT – the S1 and S2. Is the X1 a better performer? I don’t think so.

Blades Used – Feather Professional and Schick P-30
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 119g
Head Width – 50.78mm
Handle Length – 89.06mm
Handle Diameter – 12.74mm
Availability – Above The Tie
Final Word – Gimmick
 
Above The Tie X1 Single Edge Slant - Kronos (USA)



Above The Tie have released their version of a SE slant that as far as I’m aware is the first ever SE slant. When compared to a DE blade, a SE blade is longer, thicker and a lot narrower. It therefore stands to reason that it is going to be difficult to twist a SE blade to any extent. ATT also realised that a SE blades cannot be easily twisted and simply aligned the blade at an angle to the handle to achieve a slant; there is no twisting tension applied to the blade what so ever. At first, the slant in the head of the X1 was not noticed and I done a double take to ensure that there was indeed some angle change; it’s there all right, not much, but it’s there. To add to the confusion, the bottom of the plate is completely flat and set at 90 degrees to the handle, the blade angle is altered by a tapered flat machined into one side of the plate with the cap matching the flat to form an angled head. I do not have any method of measuring the angle but can see that it is not much. It’s the familiar Kronos handle that was chosen for the X1 Slant and the whole razor is presented in a sandblasted finished. ATT razors have a distinctive look to them, take one look at the X1, and it certainly fits that ATT mould right down to its primitive look, I just hope it shaves as good as previous ATT’s.



Because there is no twisting of the SE blade, loading the blades into the X1 was a simple matter of placing the blade onto the elongated blade posts on the cap, and clamping everything down. All loaded, so let’s see how an angled blade in a SE razor goes about its business. In true ATT tradition, the shave felt good; about Karve CB Level #D efficiency and with a pleasing amount of blade feel and a razor fitted with a Kronos length handle is always nice to maneuver. In no way is the razor at all responsible for the quality of the first shave with the Schick P-30 blade, it was terrible; not just for the first couple of strokes but for the first pass (and a bit) as the blade pulled and tugged its way to the finish. All the other shaves were very smooth; therefore, the fault is pointed squarely at the blade. SE’s have a reputation for delivering close shaves and the X1 upheld its end in the close shave department. There are many similarities between shaving with a DE and shaving with a SE but there are variances that make SE shaving a different experience; not better. There’s just something about shaving with a SE so it’s good to swap around every now and then. ATT’s X1 performed very well but then again so do then the other SE offerings from ATT – the S1 and S2. Is the X1 a better performer? I don’t think so.

Blades Used – Feather Professional and Schick P-30
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 119g
Head Width – 50.78mm
Handle Length – 89.06mm
Handle Diameter – 12.74mm
Availability – Above The Tie
Final Word – Gimmick
I have the polished version with an Atlas handle. Gimmick? Maybe. But, I'm quite happy with it. :D
 
Stando Single Edge – Suomi (Poland)



Stando, a new name out of Poland, have recently released a range of DE razors along with this SE variant. It reminds me very much of the first version of the Colonial General, right down to the chunky build and satin finish. There is not a machine mark to be seen anywhere on the razor and to the machinist’s credit, every part lines up perfectly. Stando has finished the Single Edge in a course satin finish that looks respectable and very workman like. If there is one complaint with the cap, it’s that the handle post is short, another three/ four mm of post would be very much appreciated. The plate is a heavy item with one full length lather channel and the cut outs for the elongated blade posts to protrude completely through. Stando make a number of handle options but the slant came with what is called their Suomi handle. It’s a simple but interesting design; cylindrical with wide interrupted longitudinal grooves running the length of the grip area. It looks like it should work exceptionally well.

I’ll put my hand up and admit that I was caught out by the Stando Single Edge. Just because the Stando resembles the Colonial General V1 in appearance does not mean that it shaves like a General V1. Stando’s Single Edge is a much more assertive razor with efficiency under that of the Asylum Rx but getting up there just the same. Blade feel – it certainly has, at about my upper level of comfort and I managed a couple of weepers each shave with the Kai Captain Mild blades but with the Feather ProGuard blade fitted it was a much more subdued razor to operate. With the ProGuard blade, this is one razor I could just keep using. As expected, the handle was a beauty, comfortable and with plenty of grip. I liked the Stando Single Edge especially with the milder range of blades, this razor is good.

Blades Used – Kai Captain Titan Mild and Feather ProGuard
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 117g
Head Width – 50.09mm
Handle Length – 90mm
Handle Diameter – 11.96mm
Availability – Stando Polska/ Etsy
Final Word – Lets you know it’s there
 
Stando Single Edge – Suomi (Poland)



Stando, a new name out of Poland, have recently released a range of DE razors along with this SE variant. It reminds me very much of the first version of the Colonial General, right down to the chunky build and satin finish. There is not a machine mark to be seen anywhere on the razor and to the machinist’s credit, every part lines up perfectly. Stando has finished the Single Edge in a course satin finish that looks respectable and very workman like. If there is one complaint with the cap, it’s that the handle post is short, another three/ four mm of post would be very much appreciated. The plate is a heavy item with one full length lather channel and the cut outs for the elongated blade posts to protrude completely through. Stando make a number of handle options but the slant came with what is called their Suomi handle. It’s a simple but interesting design; cylindrical with wide interrupted longitudinal grooves running the length of the grip area. It looks like it should work exceptionally well.

I’ll put my hand up and admit that I was caught out by the Stando Single Edge. Just because the Stando resembles the Colonial General V1 in appearance does not mean that it shaves like a General V1. Stando’s Single Edge is a much more assertive razor with efficiency under that of the Asylum Rx but getting up there just the same. Blade feel – it certainly has, at about my upper level of comfort and I managed a couple of weepers each shave with the Kai Captain Mild blades but with the Feather ProGuard blade fitted it was a much more subdued razor to operate. With the ProGuard blade, this is one razor I could just keep using. As expected, the handle was a beauty, comfortable and with plenty of grip. I liked the Stando Single Edge especially with the milder range of blades, this razor is good.

Blades Used – Kai Captain Titan Mild and Feather ProGuard
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 117g
Head Width – 50.09mm
Handle Length – 90mm
Handle Diameter – 11.96mm
Availability – Stando Polska/ Etsy
Final Word – Lets you know it’s there
I like that handle. Their offerings look good for the price, just unclear on what the materials used are due to google translate. The Gryf/Gryphon looks interesting to me tho, with 2 different blade gaps on one head.
 
I like that handle. Their offerings look good for the price, just unclear on what the materials used are due to google translate. The Gryf/Gryphon looks interesting to me tho, with 2 different blade gaps on one head.

@neongas Yesterday when I posted the review I sent a link to Stan. Obviously he has read your comment and came back with the reply below that should answer some of your question:

Oh, the length of the thread depends on the thickness of the material for the cap. Unfortunately, that's what I have to do.

As for the type of steel, I mainly use European AISI304, occasionally AISI316. AISI316 steel is difficult to obtain, more expensive and its physicochemical values are not used in such items. I work in the chemical industry and I know that the use of high-alloy makes sense only in industry.
 
Don't know where you find these Eastern European shaving websites but so glad you do, even if this one looks a bit too much for my liking. Keep up the amazing work Review guru! ;)
 
@neongas Yesterday when I posted the review I sent a link to Stan. Obviously he has read your comment and came back with the reply below that should answer some of your question:

Oh, the length of the thread depends on the thickness of the material for the cap. Unfortunately, that's what I have to do.

As for the type of steel, I mainly use European AISI304, occasionally AISI316. AISI316 steel is difficult to obtain, more expensive and its physicochemical values are not used in such items. I work in the chemical industry and I know that the use of high-alloy makes sense only in industry.
Ta. Btw, did you personally buy off Etsy or the main Stando site?
 
Stando Puzar OC – Soumi (Poland)



007 – Licenced to Thrill. No, that’s the serial number engraved on this razor, but it does offer an introduction to the Stando Puzar razor. There were different heads on offer with differing efficiency levels, some were advertised as mild – no thanks, some were dual comb - pass; one only mid aggression razor left, therefore the selection of the Puzar (Claw) with its OC plate was quite simple in the end. It’s a solid head that includes some complex machining and a large blade clamp zones at very edge of the cap. Instead of being radiused, the top of the Puzar cap has a flat area and the angular sections are also flat. Stando again skimped on the length of the handle post, it would have been nice for it to be longer. With the intent of gaining as much thread length as possible, the supplied nylon washer was removed for the shave. Blades are loaded onto round posts located on the top of the plate and engraved into a recess in the rear are the razor essential details including the model’s name. Coarse teeth with wide gaps are used to achieve the OC and feel quite smooth on the face even when dry. Other handles were advertised but it was the Soumi handle that was fitted to the Puzar; it never entered my head to ask for another style of handle to be fitted but the Soumi handle looks good and from previous experience it does work exceptionally well. With the whole razor finished in a bead blasted satin finish, it has what I call, a very appealing appearance.

While loading the blade I was thinking of other razors with angular flats on the cap where the razor rides on the top corner and takes away the blade to face contact. Stando have sharpened the departure angle on the Puzar cap so it’s pleasing to report that there was nothing to complain about. This is enough razor to grab your attention with an efficiency slightly above that of the Karve CB level #D and for a razor in the above mid aggression range, the shave was exceptionally smooth and very comfortable. Blade feel was present in a very pleasing amount but if you started getting sloppy in your technique, I feel sure it would certainly remind you. The teeth of the open comb are felt during each pass but that produces a soothing affect. Other than for the length of the blade post, this is a one very well made razor that produced exceptional results.

Note: As much as I liked Stando Puzar, I have been informed that this model has been deleted and will be replaced with an updated version named the Cat Claw. I have one on order and hope to review it before the end of the year.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Feather
Material –
304 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 106g
Head Width – 43.04mm
Handle Length – 90.00mm
Handle Diameter – 12.00mm
Availability – Stando Polska/ Etsy
Final Word – It’s good
 
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Stando Puzar OC – Soumi (Poland)



007 – Licenced to Thrill. No, that’s the serial number engraved on this razor, but it does offer an introduction to the Stando Puzar razor. There were different heads on offer with differing efficiency levels, some were advertised as mild – no thanks, some were dual comb - pass; one only mid aggression razor left, therefore the selection of the Puzar (Claw) with its OC plate was quite simple in the end. It’s a solid head that includes some complex machining and a large blade clamp zones at very edge of the cap. Instead of being radiused, the top of the Puzar cap has a flat area and the angular sections are also flat. Stando again skimped on the length of the handle post, it would have been nice for it to be longer. With the intent of gaining as much thread length as possible, the supplied nylon washer was removed for the shave. Blades are loaded onto round posts located on the top of the plate and engraved into a recess in the rear are the razor essential details including the model’s name. Coarse teeth with wide gaps are used to achieve the OC and feel quite smooth on the face even when dry. Other handles were advertised but it was the Soumi handle that was fitted to the Puzar; it never entered my head to ask for another style of handle to be fitted but the Soumi handle looks good and from previous experience it does work exceptionally well. With the whole razor finished in a bead blasted satin finish, it has what I call, a very appealing appearance.

While loading the blade I was thinking of other razors with angular flats on the cap where the razor rides on the top corner and takes away the blade to face contact. Stando have sharpened the departure angle on the Puzar cap so it’s pleasing to report that there was nothing to complain about. This is enough razor to grab your attention with an efficiency slightly above that of the Karve CB level #D and for a razor in the above mid aggression range, the shave was exceptionally smooth and very comfortable. Blade feel was present in a very pleasing amount but if you started getting sloppy in your technique, I feel sure it would certainly remind you. The teeth of the open comb are felt during each pass but that produces a soothing affect. Other than for the length of the blade post, this is a one very well made razor that produced exceptional results.

Note: As much as I liked Stando Puzar, I have been informed that this model has been updated and will be replaced with an updated version named the Cat Claw. I have one on order and hope to review it before the end of the year.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Feather
Material –
304 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 106g
Head Width – 43.04mm
Handle Length – 90.00mm
Handle Diameter – 12.00mm
Availability – Stando Polska/ Etsy
Final Word – It’s good

Stan forwarded the email below giving a bit of an insight into Stando and an update on the new range:

Hello :)

I am sending you a short description of my production. In addition to
razors, I also produce shaving brushes and stands for brushes and
razors.


Stando Razors are made in limited quantity in Poland by a small
metalworking company. The design of the first razor was based on the
best solutions and recognized designs of similar products accessible on
the market. Such factors as the ease of metal processing and technical
capacities of the company have been important factors taken into
consideration. That is why we have decided to choose the type of blade
fixing which was possible to be made with our milling machine. The
first razors without signature on the base plate allowed us to make
certain corrections concerning geometry of the whole razor head.
The catalogue of Stando razors includes a few models of various shaving
aggressiveness. The mildest ones are heads with closed comb (CC) –
Prime and Mate. Their names refer to the fact that they are designed for
everyday shaving and are intended for beginners.
The production of razors was started in the middle of 2020. Right now,
after market research was conducted, the number models has been limited
to 5 models. Since August 2021the following models are accessible on
constant offer (gap parameter in brackets): mild Zoria (0,90) and
Silesia (1,02), asymmetric Gryf (1,25+0,75), aggressive Cat Claw
(1,25)and Stando Single Edge. The other models will be sold out.
The razors are mostly made of Polish steel type AISI304.

Ragards :)
 
Really appreciate the time, dedication and effort you spend researching the razors that I keenly await each Friday to read your latest review. May your wallet stay plentiful and thanks for all your amazing work @Errol! (y)(y)(y)
 
Menlo Nealon (USA)



I’d been regularly monitoring what there was of the Menlo website for the best part of last year. Finally, in April 2021 the release I’d been anxiously waiting for was made so I jumped in and ordered one. Four handle options were available, three @ 97mm long and one @ 92mm - 92mm is closer to my preferred length so that was the choice. It’s a simple handle with a forward grip area of four grooves, a radiused out centre section and a larger diameter end. Menlo threw the how to machine a three piece razor manual out the window and started with many fresh ideas. Commencing with a stainless steel cap that’s extremely light lightweight but Menlo were able to incorporate a scalloped profile to the top surface. Of late I’ve been noticing that handle posts are getting shorter and shorter; not the Nealon, it has ample length and there’s security in knowing that there is less likelihood of failure at that point. Blade clamping is not at the edge of the cap but set back fractionally. Like the cap the plate is also very light weight. I have no idea what Menlo were trying to achieve by scalloping the blade bearing surface of the plate but it does support the radius of the blade. An interesting innovation is a groove down each edge of the plate with the lather channels machined into the bottom of that groove. Every part of the razor has been polished to a quality finish, the top of the scalloped plate and the underside of the cap included. In their advertising it is stated that the polished finish is scratch resistant – Please explain? ‘For our first batch of razors the finish offered will be “Scratch resistant polish”. This is an excellent finish with a super slick glide and feel. It feels wonderful to the touch and since it’s not a mirror polish you won’t have to worry about slight scratches appearing different from the rest of the surface of the razor.’ Menlo may well be right; when I now look at the finish it is not a mirror finish but reminds me more of a quality satin finish.

With an efficiency level above that of the Karve CB level D, the shave was always going to be close and for a razor with that level of efficiency it was a reasonable smooth shave. Just to spice up the shave and to maintain my attention, the Nealon has a noticeable amount of positive blade exposure, however I still managed a couple of minor weepers. Even with a minimum of mechanical grip, the handle control was positive and I enjoyed the manoeuvrability on offer. Menlo’s Nealon is a well thought out design that is worth considering if you’re looking for a razor with a bit more than average efficiency. In a note included with the razor Jeremy asked ‘What should I work on next’. It doesn’t look like the Nealon would lend itself to being easily converted to an open comb design so I would suggest a less efficient plate for the Nealon. I, for one would like to try a less aggressive plate.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Gillette Minora
Material – 303 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 97g
Head Width – 43.05mm
Handle Length – 91.66mm
Handle Diameter – 12.77mm
Availability – Menlo Shaving
Final Word – Inspiring
 
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Monocero Husaria CC (Poland)



Question - What happens when members of the Polish Shaving Forum, Galeria start firing ideas at each other as to what would constitute a great razor? Answer - They come up with many ideas that could be used in their own razor. As circumstances would have it, a moderator just happens to have access to a machine shop and many of the ideas generated during those discussions were incorporated into this razor. Initially, only Qty 100 of the razors were going to be made and sold to members at cost. That may well be the case but I managed to secure mine off the Monocero website but it seems that site has now been taken down. I can only assume that all 100 have been accounted for; strange really because there were straights advertised also.



Tradere, most certainly, but I can’t think of too many other razors where the handle is a main focal point of the razor; Monocero also designed their razor around the handle and its stand. The handle’s main section is slightly tapered with twin parallel spirals but it’s an incorporated ball near the end of the handle, that when inserted into its dedicated stand appears as a ball joint and that’s what sets the handle apart. Two heads were ordered; one with a CC and the other an OC comb. Round blade location posts are located under the cap. There are two rails on the top of the plate for blade clamping but these are set inside the edge of the cap. Lather clearance is achieved by two generously wide channels on each side of the plate. Not long after ordering, I was contacted to enquire what sort of finish I would like. I chose polished and I’m pleased I did. An exceptional job has been achieved, but the underside of the cap and the top of the plate have been left satin; very decent.

Congratulations to the Galera Shaving Forum; you have nailed it with the specifications you’ve thrashed out for the Monocero. Of course, there were prototypes and refinements along the way but the razor I reviewed was incredible. Efficiency was below that of a Karve CB Level #D and it provided as smooth a shave as I’ve enjoyed in a long time. Blade feel was present, but that too was subdued. There were no nasty surprises and this in one razor that makes you feel secure and inspires confidence while it goes about its business of shaving. My understanding is that there will be no more Monocero razors produced but if they ever decide to do another run, my advice is to grab one. This razor is good.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Shark
Material –
316 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 100g
Head Width – 42.92mm
Handle Length – 91.64mm
Handle Diameter – Tapered
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Shaving bliss
 
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