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Weekly Razor Review

Great review as usual. I enjoy the Baili BD177. Not sure if it is similar, same or different to the Weishi, but it is also a great shaver.

@Missoni I’m not aware of any tie up between Weishi and Baili but the razors look very similar. If your razor delivers results similar to the Weishi then you’ve got a pleasant sharing razor. Just proves you don’t have to spend a huge amount to get a good shave.
 
@Missoni I’m not aware of any tie up between Weishi and Baili but the razors look very similar. If your razor delivers results similar to the Weishi then you’ve got a pleasant sharing razor. Just proves you don’t have to spend a huge amount to get a good shave.

I have ordered the Weishi and will compare.
 
Gillette Bostonian (USA)



It doesn’t hurt occasionally to have a shave with a razor outside your comfort zone and to try something different, this week I’ve pulled out the Gillette Bostonian. How do I know this razor is a Bostonian?
  • It’s a razor, even I can see that
  • The inner velvet lining of the metal case is inscribed Gillette
  • The razor has Gillette pressed into it
  • I’d rate my chances now at about 30% that it’s a Bostonian
  • The razor fits in the case like the case was made for it
  • Now about 60% chance
  • I purchased the razor off ebay as a Bostonian
  • 45% chance
  • Bostonian is inscribed on the lining inside its case
  • Looking better now
  • Found a photo of a real Bostonian and mine looks the same
  • I would say I have a better than 95% chance the razor is a Bostonian
There you have the identification process from someone who knows precisely nothing about vintage Gillette razors. A little bit of checking on the serial number has me thinking that this Bostonian was manufactured in 1925 making it vintage well before I was even born! Gillette’s Bostonian was based on the New Improved, or was it an Improved New? Short comb? Long comb? Long Black? Flat White? I don’t know? These Gillette models are so complicated. If that’s not enough to get my head spinning and just to compound matters further, if the exact same razor went into a metal case (but it had to have a platform that raised and lowered as the lid opened and closed) it’s called a Bostonian, into a wooden case it’s called a Richwood, into a cardboard box Gillette found some other name for it. And if it was dunked it in the gold pot as it went past, that opened the door to a whole new world of high flying names – ah!!!!! except for the Bostonian, they were also available in a gold version. And there are those who claim to understand all this gobbledygook, or think they do. Stick with the modern razors Errol, they are so much simpler.

There is much about the Bostonian that appeals to me and that’s the reason it was chosen for this week’s review. The Bostonian feels solid so it is obviously a quality product that has stood the test of time; fit and finish on all parts is first class. Gillette’s Bostonian is fitted with an open comb and true to form for razors from that era, there is a knob at the end of the handle to disassemble the razor into its three parts. I quite like the idea of having the knob at the rear of the handle but as a consequence the plate is permanently attached to the shaft of the handle. Clamping of the blade is at the outer extremity of the cap and this corresponds with a flat surface on the plate. There are no cracks in the handle and the whole brass chassis has been nickel plated, this razor presents very nicely.

When it was purchased, the Bostonian was given a good clean but was never polished. It was amazing to note just how the Bostonian cleaned up during its short use for this review; after a month or two of use, I feel sure that it would sparkle. The Bostonian was an absolute pleasure to shave with; efficiency just on the high side of Karve CB level #C with a silk smooth action however it was frustrating trying to get a close shave, I really had to work to get any where near close. Maneuverability with the shortish handle was superb but it could have been just a tad longer. During the first shave I noted a lack of grip with the handle, but grip was not a consideration during the remaining shaves. It was a pleasure to step back in time and use an earlier offering and see that realistically there has been so little improvement in shaving in the last 100 years. This old clanger delivered a bloody good shave.

Blades Used – Gillette The Spoiler and Glatz
Material – Brass/ Nickel plated
Blade Tab - Exposed
Weight – 76g
Head Width – 39.83mm
Handle Length – 76.3mm
Handle Diameter – 11.6mm
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Smooth as
 
Gillette Bostonian (USA)



It doesn’t hurt occasionally to have a shave with a razor outside your comfort zone and to try something different, this week I’ve pulled out the Gillette Bostonian. How do I know this razor is a Bostonian?
  • It’s a razor, even I can see that
  • The inner velvet lining of the metal case is inscribed Gillette
  • The razor has Gillette pressed into it
  • I’d rate my chances now at about 30% that it’s a Bostonian
  • The razor fits in the case like the case was made for it
  • Now about 60% chance
  • I purchased the razor off ebay as a Bostonian
  • 45% chance
  • Bostonian is inscribed on the lining inside its case
  • Looking better now
  • Found a photo of a real Bostonian and mine looks the same
  • I would say I have a better than 95% chance the razor is a Bostonian
There you have the identification process from someone who knows precisely nothing about vintage Gillette razors. A little bit of checking on the serial number has me thinking that this Bostonian was manufactured in 1925 making it vintage well before I was even born! Gillette’s Bostonian was based on the New Improved, or was it an Improved New? Short comb? Long comb? Long Black? Flat White? I don’t know? These Gillette models are so complicated. If that’s not enough to get my head spinning and just to compound matters further, if the exact same razor went into a metal case (but it had to have a platform that raised and lowered as the lid opened and closed) it’s called a Bostonian, into a wooden case it’s called a Richwood, into a cardboard box Gillette found some other name for it. And if it was dunked it in the gold pot as it went past, that opened the door to a whole new world of high flying names – ah!!!!! except for the Bostonian, they were also available in a gold version. And there are those who claim to understand all this gobbledygook, or think they do. Stick with the modern razors Errol, they are so much simpler.

There is much about the Bostonian that appeals to me and that’s the reason it was chosen for this week’s review. The Bostonian feels solid so it is obviously a quality product that has stood the test of time; fit and finish on all parts is first class. Gillette’s Bostonian is fitted with an open comb and true to form for razors from that era, there is a knob at the end of the handle to disassemble the razor into its three parts. I quite like the idea of having the knob at the rear of the handle but as a consequence the plate is permanently attached to the shaft of the handle. Clamping of the blade is at the outer extremity of the cap and this corresponds with a flat surface on the plate. There are no cracks in the handle and the whole brass chassis has been nickel plated, this razor presents very nicely.

When it was purchased, the Bostonian was given a good clean but was never polished. It was amazing to note just how the Bostonian cleaned up during its short use for this review; after a month or two of use, I feel sure that it would sparkle. The Bostonian was an absolute pleasure to shave with; efficiency just on the high side of Karve CB level #C with a silk smooth action however it was frustrating trying to get a close shave, I really had to work to get any where near close. Maneuverability with the shortish handle was superb but it could have been just a tad longer. During the first shave I noted a lack of grip with the handle, but grip was not a consideration during the remaining shaves. It was a pleasure to step back in time and use an earlier offering and see that realistically there has been so little improvement in shaving in the last 100 years. This old clanger delivered a bloody good shave.

Blades Used – Gillette The Spoiler and Glatz
Material – Brass/ Nickel plated
Blade Tab - Exposed
Weight – 76g
Head Width – 39.83mm
Handle Length – 76.3mm
Handle Diameter – 11.6mm
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Smooth as

... and such a beautiful razor!
 
Gillette Fatboy (USA)



It seems that just about everyone has at least one Gillette Fatboy in the den, and surprise, surprise, that even includes me. There are many good reasons for its popularity and from previous experience I can say it’s a bloody good razor. Its a twist to open adjustable razor with a brass chassis and nickel plated, how simple is that? Gillette had been making TTO action razors for ages so by the time the Fatboy came along, Gillette had the TTO mechanism pretty well perfected. The wings operate smoothly and work in unison to provide a mirror image of the other half, the TTO knob opens and closes freely, coming to a positive lock up of the mechanism and there is a positive click as each number on the rotating adjuster line up, this is a quality product produced with a lot of Gillette’s engineering know how behind it. It does not bother me, but there are the purists out there who insist on knowing the date code – F4. Weight wise, the Fatboy is on the heavy side for a Gillette but in my world of predominately stainless steel razors, its weight comes in under that of most of them.

At my last use of the Fatboy I was only trying to find my comfort level, I found the sweet spot at #5 and was quite content to stop there; during this review I hope to open the horizons, report on a few more settings in the range and see just what makes the Fatboy so good. Each shave was impressively smooth even though the amount of blade feel present fluctuate between the different efficiency levels; setting #5 and the blade feel was very pleasant, at setting #7 the Fatboy was not a lot more efficient but there was an increase in blade feel, at setting #9 efficiency had not increased significantly and blade feel was down to not quite #5 levels. I completed this exercise a couple of times to make sure I’d closed the wings down tight and wasn’t getting false results. Gillette’s Fatboy delivered an outstanding shave anywhere between settings #5 and #9, always smooth and close. Its handle had near perfect proportions and the ease of control promoted a level of confidence not often seen. The Fatboy does everything so well, it is a superb razor.

Adjustment Range – #1 - #9 (dots for the even numbers)
  • #1 – Too mild for me
  • #3 – Mild – about Karve CB Level #C
  • #5 – Just under Karve CB Level #D - Pleasant amount of blade feel
  • #7 – Karve CB Level #D – Very usable but the most blade feel
  • #9 – Just over Karve CB Level #D – Less blade feel than at #7
Blades Used – Ladas and Gillette Platenium
Material – Brass/ Nickel plated
Blade Tab - Exposed
Weight – 77g
Head Width – 43.3mm
Handle Length – 77.78mm
Handle Diameter – 12.15mm
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Loved by many
 
Gillette Fatboy (USA)



It seems that just about everyone has at least one Gillette Fatboy in the den, and surprise, surprise, that even includes me. There are many good reasons for its popularity and from previous experience I can say it’s a bloody good razor. Its a twist to open adjustable razor with a brass chassis and nickel plated, how simple is that? Gillette had been making TTO action razors for ages so by the time the Fatboy came along, Gillette had the TTO mechanism pretty well perfected. The wings operate smoothly and work in unison to provide a mirror image of the other half, the TTO knob opens and closes freely, coming to a positive lock up of the mechanism and there is a positive click as each number on the rotating adjuster line up, this is a quality product produced with a lot of Gillette’s engineering know how behind it. It does not bother me, but there are the purists out there who insist on knowing the date code – F4. Weight wise, the Fatboy is on the heavy side for a Gillette but in my world of predominately stainless steel razors, its weight comes in under that of most of them.

At my last use of the Fatboy I was only trying to find my comfort level, I found the sweet spot at #5 and was quite content to stop there; during this review I hope to open the horizons, report on a few more settings in the range and see just what makes the Fatboy so good. Each shave was impressively smooth even though the amount of blade feel present fluctuate between the different efficiency levels; setting #5 and the blade feel was very pleasant, at setting #7 the Fatboy was not a lot more efficient but there was an increase in blade feel, at setting #9 efficiency had not increased significantly and blade feel was down to not quite #5 levels. I completed this exercise a couple of times to make sure I’d closed the wings down tight and wasn’t getting false results. Gillette’s Fatboy delivered an outstanding shave anywhere between settings #5 and #9, always smooth and close. Its handle had near perfect proportions and the ease of control promoted a level of confidence not often seen. The Fatboy does everything so well, it is a superb razor.

Adjustment Range – #1 - #9 (dots for the even numbers)
  • #1 – Too mild for me
  • #3 – Mild – about Karve CB Level #C
  • #5 – Just under Karve CB Level #D - Pleasant amount of blade feel
  • #7 – Karve CB Level #D – Very usable but the most blade feel
  • #9 – Just over Karve CB Level #D – Less blade feel than at #7
Blades Used – Ladas and Gillette Platenium
Material – Brass/ Nickel plated
Blade Tab - Exposed
Weight – 77g
Head Width – 43.3mm
Handle Length – 77.78mm
Handle Diameter – 12.15mm
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Loved by many

Another awesome review @Errol . I am one of the many who love the Fatboy. Unfortunately, I've bought and sold a few which had issues with uneven blade gaps and alignment. I finally settled on a refurbished and replated one.

nn09hqL.jpg
 
Gillette Fatboy (USA)



It seems that just about everyone has at least one Gillette Fatboy in the den, and surprise, surprise, that even includes me. There are many good reasons for its popularity and from previous experience I can say it’s a bloody good razor. Its a twist to open adjustable razor with a brass chassis and nickel plated, how simple is that? Gillette had been making TTO action razors for ages so by the time the Fatboy came along, Gillette had the TTO mechanism pretty well perfected. The wings operate smoothly and work in unison to provide a mirror image of the other half, the TTO knob opens and closes freely, coming to a positive lock up of the mechanism and there is a positive click as each number on the rotating adjuster line up, this is a quality product produced with a lot of Gillette’s engineering know how behind it. It does not bother me, but there are the purists out there who insist on knowing the date code – F4. Weight wise, the Fatboy is on the heavy side for a Gillette but in my world of predominately stainless steel razors, its weight comes in under that of most of them.

At my last use of the Fatboy I was only trying to find my comfort level, I found the sweet spot at #5 and was quite content to stop there; during this review I hope to open the horizons, report on a few more settings in the range and see just what makes the Fatboy so good. Each shave was impressively smooth even though the amount of blade feel present fluctuate between the different efficiency levels; setting #5 and the blade feel was very pleasant, at setting #7 the Fatboy was not a lot more efficient but there was an increase in blade feel, at setting #9 efficiency had not increased significantly and blade feel was down to not quite #5 levels. I completed this exercise a couple of times to make sure I’d closed the wings down tight and wasn’t getting false results. Gillette’s Fatboy delivered an outstanding shave anywhere between settings #5 and #9, always smooth and close. Its handle had near perfect proportions and the ease of control promoted a level of confidence not often seen. The Fatboy does everything so well, it is a superb razor.

Adjustment Range – #1 - #9 (dots for the even numbers)
  • #1 – Too mild for me
  • #3 – Mild – about Karve CB Level #C
  • #5 – Just under Karve CB Level #D - Pleasant amount of blade feel
  • #7 – Karve CB Level #D – Very usable but the most blade feel
  • #9 – Just over Karve CB Level #D – Less blade feel than at #7
Blades Used – Ladas and Gillette Platenium
Material – Brass/ Nickel plated
Blade Tab - Exposed
Weight – 77g
Head Width – 43.3mm
Handle Length – 77.78mm
Handle Diameter – 12.15mm
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Loved by many

Just to compare notes, and I appreciate if anyone who reads this would reply. I found that while I was able to get a nice smooth shave from the Fatboy, the shave did not have much longevity compared to more efficient razors like the Timeless SLIM or Fatip Lo Storto. What I mean is regrowth is apparent sooner with the Fatboy. Also, it seems not to fare well with longer hair growth. Let me know your thoughts :)
 
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Just to compare notes, and I appreciate if anyone who reads this would reply. I found that while I was able to get a nice smooth shave from the Fatboy, the shave did not have much longevity compared to more efficient razors like the Timeless SLIM or Fatip Lo Storto. What I mean is regrowth is apparent sooner with the Fatboy. Also, it seems not to fare well with longer hair growth. Let me know your thoughts :)

Ive not used the razors you mention but have never seen an evidence of this.
 
Just to compare notes, and I appreciate if anyone who reads this would reply. I found that while I was able to get a nice smooth shave from the Fatboy, the shave did not have much longevity compared to more efficient razors like the Timeless SLIM or Fatip Lo Storto. What I mean is regrowth is apparent sooner with the Fatboy. Also, it seems not to fare well with longer hair growth. Let me know your thoughts :)

I‘ve not used the Fatip but never found any significant longevity variance between the Timeless and the Fatboy shaves. Usually when there is a bit of blade feel there is a long lasting closeness that goes along with it. Where the blade feel is neutral I can get a not so long lasting close shave. As is always said, there is so much difference between what each of us experience otherwise shaving would be so boring.
 
Blutt got back to me.

The next run of razors is in February, and the baseplates will be available as well. There are only small cosmetic changes, no major design changes. They may be able to do a discount depending on how many we order.

So a group buy is possible, to at least save on postage and *maybe* with a small discount. It’s still a pretty pricey razor though with the additional baseplates.

I have a 1.2 blutt and I find it great. It is not aggressive at all (of course, with a minimum of attention, not sleeping) but it shaves smoothly and deeply, with minimal blade sensation. I would gladly take another one, but on the site they are sold out. Nothing came out in February, and there is no indication on the matter. I would be interested in joining a buying group if they write to the friend who contacted them.
 
Ho un blutt 1.2 e lo trovo fantastico. Non è affatto aggressivo (ovviamente, con un minimo di attenzione, non dormendo) ma si rade in modo fluido e profondo, con una sensazione minima della lama. Ne prenderei volentieri un altro, ma sul sito sono sold out. A febbraio non è uscito nulla e non ci sono indicazioni in merito. Sarei interessato ad entrare in un gruppo di acquisto se scrivessero all'amico che li ha contattati.
Arrived today:
Pascal Kloter <pascal@bluttrasur.ch>
Thu 07/04/2022 15:53
Hi John
The razor was originally supposed to be restocked in February, however there were some delays due to shortages of material and long delivery times from suppliers.
Production is currently in its late stages and we should be able to announce a date soon.
For now we will only sell full razors due to the demand / stock balance. This may change in the future.
Thank you
Paschal
 
Global Shaving Club - Fat Guy – Replica



With Global Shaving Club’s Fat Guy replica, I’m comparing it with the original Gillette Fatboy razor reviewed last week. This replica is said to be based on a 1960’s Fatboy and the version I received was the chrome plated model. It would have been a logistical nightmare when Global Shaving claim that the 15 parts constituting the inventory are sauced from Japan, India, China and the whole razor is then assembled in Canada. I’ve never picked up a brand new Gillette Fatboy but one thing I am sure of is that the quality will be one whole lot better than with this Fat Guy. Operation of the twist to open knob is anything but smooth, there is a distinct tight spot about mid travel before it smoothes out again, then as everything locks down it feels so creepy; the wings are jerky in operation and when fully open the angles do not mirror each other. In the closed position there is a wider gap on one side of the centre piece and one wing is cocked up. Just like the original Fat Boy, there is a click mechanism fitted on the adjuster, but it too feels and sounds tinny. Presentation wise, the chrome finish is smooth and shiny but at the same time, looks cheap. There is only so much my rod oil can possibly achieve but I had to give it a go; let’s just say that after oiling it performed marginally better. Global Shave Club were recently looking for backers for a Toggle replica they are about to release; I think you’ll understand why I didn’t subscribe.

I was not impressed that the wings do not align properly but decided to give it a try anyhow. To compare apples with apples, the blades intended for use in the Fat Guy are from the same packs as the blades I used last week - if I get that far. After loading the Ladas I thought I’d better check blade alignment; looks good, and what’s this, the wings are both fully closed and sitting perfectly aligned. Unscrewed the knob and tightened it up three or four times and the wings aligned each time. Not only that, but the tight spot in the TTO knob has gone; whatever was out of kilter must have taken a bump or knock and was operating like it was designed to do. With the Fat Guy’s internals now responding without protest, the chances of being able to complete at least one shave have increased no end. It’s a good thing I reviewed the Gillette Fat Boy last week because I could feel that the shave felt very much the same. Sure, the efficiency levels did not match with the correspond settings between the razors, there were a couple of notches difference. Karve CB level #C plus efficiency was achieved at setting #1 and at Setting #9 was well above the Karve CB level #D efficiency but for me, it was usable but certainly aggressive. One thing I done with the Fat Guy that I could not do with the Gillette offering was to complete a shave on setting #1. Blade feel was present at all settings but was never excessive and I have to admire just how close the shave was. With the Fat Guy operating as it was designed to, I’m satisfied with the results.

When I inspected the Fat Guy, I would not have given you twopence for it. Fortunately for me the Fat Guy self righted itself and I ended up having a a pleasant shaving experience. What if it did not self right, it would have been money down the drain as I certainly wasn’t going to strip it down to identify the issue. There’s always the chance you may have been lucky and received an amazing razor right out of the box. Global Shaving Company’s Fat Guy may have been cheap to purchase but the quality is not there, you can take a chance that you’re going to get a good one but and at the end of the day, it remains a replica of a great razor from the Gillette range; my advice is to think seriously then buy the real McCoy, a Gillette Fat Boy. It may have been previously used but at least it is a quality product that can be relied on.

Adjustment Range – #1 - #9 (dots for the even numbers)
  • #1 – Mild – above Karve CB Level #C
  • #3 – Under Karve CB Level #D
  • #5 – Karve CB Level #D
  • #7 – Just over Karve CB Level #D
  • #9 – Above Karve CB Level #D
Blades Used – Ladas and Gillette Platinum
Material – Brass and Magnesium Alloy - Chrome Plated
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 64g
Head Width – 43.44mm
Handle Length – 77.70mm
Handle Diameter – 11.58mm
Availability – Global Shave Club
Final Word – Buyer beware
 
Global Shaving Club - Fat Guy – Replica



With Global Shaving Club’s Fat Guy replica, I’m comparing it with the original Gillette Fatboy razor reviewed last week. This replica is said to be based on a 1960’s Fatboy and the version I received was the chrome plated model. It would have been a logistical nightmare when Global Shaving claim that the 15 parts constituting the inventory are sauced from Japan, India, China and the whole razor is then assembled in Canada. I’ve never picked up a brand new Gillette Fatboy but one thing I am sure of is that the quality will be one whole lot better than with this Fat Guy. Operation of the twist to open knob is anything but smooth, there is a distinct tight spot about mid travel before it smoothes out again, then as everything locks down it feels so creepy; the wings are jerky in operation and when fully open the angles do not mirror each other. In the closed position there is a wider gap on one side of the centre piece and one wing is cocked up. Just like the original Fat Boy, there is a click mechanism fitted on the adjuster, but it too feels and sounds tinny. Presentation wise, the chrome finish is smooth and shiny but at the same time, looks cheap. There is only so much my rod oil can possibly achieve but I had to give it a go; let’s just say that after oiling it performed marginally better. Global Shave Club were recently looking for backers for a Toggle replica they are about to release; I think you’ll understand why I didn’t subscribe.

I was not impressed that the wings do not align properly but decided to give it a try anyhow. To compare apples with apples, the blades intended for use in the Fat Guy are from the same packs as the blades I used last week - if I get that far. After loading the Ladas I thought I’d better check blade alignment; looks good, and what’s this, the wings are both fully closed and sitting perfectly aligned. Unscrewed the knob and tightened it up three or four times and the wings aligned each time. Not only that, but the tight spot in the TTO knob has gone; whatever was out of kilter must have taken a bump or knock and was operating like it was designed to do. With the Fat Guy’s internals now responding without protest, the chances of being able to complete at least one shave have increased no end. It’s a good thing I reviewed the Gillette Fat Boy last week because I could feel that the shave felt very much the same. Sure, the efficiency levels did not match with the correspond settings between the razors, there were a couple of notches difference. Karve CB level #C plus efficiency was achieved at setting #1 and at Setting #9 was well above the Karve CB level #D efficiency but for me, it was usable but certainly aggressive. One thing I done with the Fat Guy that I could not do with the Gillette offering was to complete a shave on setting #1. Blade feel was present at all settings but was never excessive and I have to admire just how close the shave was. With the Fat Guy operating as it was designed to, I’m satisfied with the results.

When I inspected the Fat Guy, I would not have given you twopence for it. Fortunately for me the Fat Guy self righted itself and I ended up having a a pleasant shaving experience. What if it did not self right, it would have been money down the drain as I certainly wasn’t going to strip it down to identify the issue. There’s always the chance you may have been lucky and received an amazing razor right out of the box. Global Shaving Company’s Fat Guy may have been cheap to purchase but the quality is not there, you can take a chance that you’re going to get a good one but and at the end of the day, it remains a replica of a great razor from the Gillette range; my advice is to think seriously then buy the real McCoy, a Gillette Fat Boy. It may have been previously used but at least it is a quality product that can be relied on.

Adjustment Range – #1 - #9 (dots for the even numbers)
  • #1 – Mild – above Karve CB Level #C
  • #3 – Under Karve CB Level #D
  • #5 – Karve CB Level #D
  • #7 – Just over Karve CB Level #D
  • #9 – Above Karve CB Level #D
Blades Used – Ladas and Gillette Platinum
Material – Brass and Magnesium Alloy - Chrome Plated
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 64g
Head Width – 43.44mm
Handle Length – 77.70mm
Handle Diameter – 11.58mm
Availability – Global Shave Club
Final Word – Buyer beware
@Errol next review will be the 1958 Gillette Toggle Replica click here
 
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