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Weekly Razor Review
- Thread starter Errol
- Start date
Errol
Razor Review Guru
Blackland Tradere Gen 2 (USA)
Tradere was one of the pioneering companies to machine stainless steel razors as we now know them, but they ceased manufacturing sometime in 2014 after only a couple of years in business. During this period there were somewhere over 1000 razors made; the exact number is either not known or has not been disclosed. In 2019 Blackland announced they had secured the rights to the Tradere name and were going to rerelease the Tradere product. For about five years, the Tradere name lived on as a model in the Blackland range, but production has now ceased. Blackland has full rights to the Tradere name with a licence to alter or redesign parts as they see fit. Blackland chose to base their range on two styles of the original Tradere razor; the OC Gen 1 Tradere, and the Blackland Tradere SB was created on the Gen 2 Tradere style.
When I first saw the photos of the Blackland Tradere razors, I thought there’s something wrong/ different about that handle. Out with an original to check and the grooves around the handle of the Blackbird version have been deepened, it looks ok but it’s not a Tradere. Somewhere in the transition to become a Blackland Tradere Gen 2 razor, the length of the handle has also grown by 3mm. If Blackland have changed one of the more distinguishing features of the Tradere razor, its handle, it might well be questioned what else may have been changed from the original Tradere. Machining marks are evident on the underside of the cap and there has been no attempt to polish them out, but every other surface of the razor has been polished to a very high standard. Fitted to the Tradere is a complicated machined plate with four small, elongated lather slots sited along each side. Another distinctive feature of the Tradere is the concave end plates on the cap, if these end plates are disregarded, everything else about the cap looks to be fairly standard fare; elongated blade posts, blade clamping on the large flats on its edge. It is out of character for a Blackland razor to have a serial number but in keeping to the Tradere tradition each Blackland Tradere razor has been individually numbered, commencing at #2000. I do have one complaint though; the handle post could be a bit longer, but I remain a fan of the overall Tradere styling.
This week it’s the Blackland Tradere SB, Gen 2 that has been chosen for review. It’s strange how our likes change with time. I once thought the Tradere designed handle to be the best in the world and even bought a couple of spare Stork manufactured Tradere handles. Now I find it to be too thin and too long, but it still looks amazing. Another interesting observation, after a couple of shaves I got back in the groove and the Tradere handle felt as good as it ever did. Efficiency wise, the SB was around the Karve CB Level #C with a small amount of positive blade, it was really a pleasure to use. I am a huge fan of enclosed blade ends, they do not get in the way while shaving, they look great and must make the razor that little safer, bring them on, I say. I hope that at some time the Blackland Tradere is reintroduced into the Blackland catalogue, it is truly one of the great razors and serves as a link to the history of machined razors.
Blades Used – Royal II and Gillette Minora
Material – 303 Stainless Steel
Weight – 119g
Blade Tab - Enclosed
Head Width – 47.56mm
Handle Length – 95.31mm
Handle Diameter – 11.09mm
Availability – Out of Production
Final Word – Living History
Tradere was one of the pioneering companies to machine stainless steel razors as we now know them, but they ceased manufacturing sometime in 2014 after only a couple of years in business. During this period there were somewhere over 1000 razors made; the exact number is either not known or has not been disclosed. In 2019 Blackland announced they had secured the rights to the Tradere name and were going to rerelease the Tradere product. For about five years, the Tradere name lived on as a model in the Blackland range, but production has now ceased. Blackland has full rights to the Tradere name with a licence to alter or redesign parts as they see fit. Blackland chose to base their range on two styles of the original Tradere razor; the OC Gen 1 Tradere, and the Blackland Tradere SB was created on the Gen 2 Tradere style.
When I first saw the photos of the Blackland Tradere razors, I thought there’s something wrong/ different about that handle. Out with an original to check and the grooves around the handle of the Blackbird version have been deepened, it looks ok but it’s not a Tradere. Somewhere in the transition to become a Blackland Tradere Gen 2 razor, the length of the handle has also grown by 3mm. If Blackland have changed one of the more distinguishing features of the Tradere razor, its handle, it might well be questioned what else may have been changed from the original Tradere. Machining marks are evident on the underside of the cap and there has been no attempt to polish them out, but every other surface of the razor has been polished to a very high standard. Fitted to the Tradere is a complicated machined plate with four small, elongated lather slots sited along each side. Another distinctive feature of the Tradere is the concave end plates on the cap, if these end plates are disregarded, everything else about the cap looks to be fairly standard fare; elongated blade posts, blade clamping on the large flats on its edge. It is out of character for a Blackland razor to have a serial number but in keeping to the Tradere tradition each Blackland Tradere razor has been individually numbered, commencing at #2000. I do have one complaint though; the handle post could be a bit longer, but I remain a fan of the overall Tradere styling.
This week it’s the Blackland Tradere SB, Gen 2 that has been chosen for review. It’s strange how our likes change with time. I once thought the Tradere designed handle to be the best in the world and even bought a couple of spare Stork manufactured Tradere handles. Now I find it to be too thin and too long, but it still looks amazing. Another interesting observation, after a couple of shaves I got back in the groove and the Tradere handle felt as good as it ever did. Efficiency wise, the SB was around the Karve CB Level #C with a small amount of positive blade, it was really a pleasure to use. I am a huge fan of enclosed blade ends, they do not get in the way while shaving, they look great and must make the razor that little safer, bring them on, I say. I hope that at some time the Blackland Tradere is reintroduced into the Blackland catalogue, it is truly one of the great razors and serves as a link to the history of machined razors.
Blades Used – Royal II and Gillette Minora
Material – 303 Stainless Steel
Weight – 119g
Blade Tab - Enclosed
Head Width – 47.56mm
Handle Length – 95.31mm
Handle Diameter – 11.09mm
Availability – Out of Production
Final Word – Living History
Bladerunner7
Member
Vittoria
Member
Great review Errol and beautiful razor mateBlackland Tradere Gen 2 (USA)
Tradere was one of the pioneering companies to machine stainless steel razors as we now know them, but they ceased manufacturing sometime in 2014 after only a couple of years in business. During this period there were somewhere over 1000 razors made; the exact number is either not known or has not been disclosed. In 2019 Blackland announced they had secured the rights to the Tradere name and were going to rerelease the Tradere product. For about five years, the Tradere name lived on as a model in the Blackland range, but production has now ceased. Blackland has full rights to the Tradere name with a licence to alter or redesign parts as they see fit. Blackland chose to base their range on two styles of the original Tradere razor; the OC Gen 1 Tradere, and the Blackland Tradere SB was created on the Gen 2 Tradere style.
When I first saw the photos of the Blackland Tradere razors, I thought there’s something wrong/ different about that handle. Out with an original to check and the grooves around the handle of the Blackbird version have been deepened, it looks ok but it’s not a Tradere. Somewhere in the transition to become a Blackland Tradere Gen 2 razor, the length of the handle has also grown by 3mm. If Blackland have changed one of the more distinguishing features of the Tradere razor, its handle, it might well be questioned what else may have been changed from the original Tradere. Machining marks are evident on the underside of the cap and there has been no attempt to polish them out, but every other surface of the razor has been polished to a very high standard. Fitted to the Tradere is a complicated machined plate with four small, elongated lather slots sited along each side. Another distinctive feature of the Tradere is the concave end plates on the cap, if these end plates are disregarded, everything else about the cap looks to be fairly standard fare; elongated blade posts, blade clamping on the large flats on its edge. It is out of character for a Blackland razor to have a serial number but in keeping to the Tradere tradition each Blackland Tradere razor has been individually numbered, commencing at #2000. I do have one complaint though; the handle post could be a bit longer, but I remain a fan of the overall Tradere styling.
This week it’s the Blackland Tradere SB, Gen 2 that has been chosen for review. It’s strange how our likes change with time. I once thought the Tradere designed handle to be the best in the world and even bought a couple of spare Stork manufactured Tradere handles. Now I find it to be too thin and too long, but it still looks amazing. Another interesting observation, after a couple of shaves I got back in the groove and the Tradere handle felt as good as it ever did. Efficiency wise, the SB was around the Karve CB Level #C with a small amount of positive blade, it was really a pleasure to use. I am a huge fan of enclosed blade ends, they do not get in the way while shaving, they look great and must make the razor that little safer, bring them on, I say. I hope that at some time the Blackland Tradere is reintroduced into the Blackland catalogue, it is truly one of the great razors and serves as a link to the history of machined razors.
Blades Used – Royal II and Gillette Minora
Material – 303 Stainless Steel
Weight – 119g
Blade Tab - Enclosed
Head Width – 47.56mm
Handle Length – 95.31mm
Handle Diameter – 11.09mm
Availability – Out of Production
Final Word – Living History
Errol
Razor Review Guru
Tradere Gen 2 OC (USA)
Ahhhh! Now that’s a Tradere!
Couldn’t resist.
This razor is the real McCoy, a Tradere Gen 2 with open comb that completes my set of the three original Tradere razors. I knew that eventually one fall into my snare; all I had to do was be patient and be ready to swoop when the opportunity presented itself. When Blackland advised they were re-releasing the Tradere there was any number of sharks trying to cash in by offering all three versions of the Tradere at highly inflated prices. Mine wasn’t exactly given to me but the price was what I thought to be appropriate. If Blackland’s advertising is to be believed, this Tradere Gen 2 should be the open comb version of the Blackland Tradere Gen 2 reviewed last week. Last week I mentioned in the review of the Blackland Tradere Gen 2 SB that the handle post was a bit short; guess what, it’s short on this one also, but the thread engagement is superb. One of the big changes with the presentation of the razors is that the Tradere is not as highly polished as the Blackland variety, especially the handle where it is more a satin finish, but the head is highly polished.
It is now common practice for OC and SB razors of the one model to be released with very similar efficiencies. In earlier times, the open comb usually shaved a tad more efficient than the safety bar, and this is confirmed with the Tradere Gen 2 OC. Efficiency is at Karve CB Level #D, just a nice little step up in efficiency from the Gen 2 SB. There was a pleasant amount of blade feel and although the open comb teeth could be felt, the shave was still very comfortable. Tradere made stylish razors and in my opinion their Gen 2 versions were as good, if not better than the majority of current manufacturers. Of the three Tradere version made, this is the one Blackland chose not to reproduce, and in my opinion – it is the best.
Blades Used – Shark and Gillette Platinum
Material – Stainless Steel
Weight – 114.1g
Blade Tab - Enclosed
Head Width – 47.71mm
Handle Length – 92.04mm
Handle Diameter – 11.05mm
Availability – Out of Production
Final Word – Tradere, you were good.
Ahhhh! Now that’s a Tradere!
Couldn’t resist.
This razor is the real McCoy, a Tradere Gen 2 with open comb that completes my set of the three original Tradere razors. I knew that eventually one fall into my snare; all I had to do was be patient and be ready to swoop when the opportunity presented itself. When Blackland advised they were re-releasing the Tradere there was any number of sharks trying to cash in by offering all three versions of the Tradere at highly inflated prices. Mine wasn’t exactly given to me but the price was what I thought to be appropriate. If Blackland’s advertising is to be believed, this Tradere Gen 2 should be the open comb version of the Blackland Tradere Gen 2 reviewed last week. Last week I mentioned in the review of the Blackland Tradere Gen 2 SB that the handle post was a bit short; guess what, it’s short on this one also, but the thread engagement is superb. One of the big changes with the presentation of the razors is that the Tradere is not as highly polished as the Blackland variety, especially the handle where it is more a satin finish, but the head is highly polished.
It is now common practice for OC and SB razors of the one model to be released with very similar efficiencies. In earlier times, the open comb usually shaved a tad more efficient than the safety bar, and this is confirmed with the Tradere Gen 2 OC. Efficiency is at Karve CB Level #D, just a nice little step up in efficiency from the Gen 2 SB. There was a pleasant amount of blade feel and although the open comb teeth could be felt, the shave was still very comfortable. Tradere made stylish razors and in my opinion their Gen 2 versions were as good, if not better than the majority of current manufacturers. Of the three Tradere version made, this is the one Blackland chose not to reproduce, and in my opinion – it is the best.
Blades Used – Shark and Gillette Platinum
Material – Stainless Steel
Weight – 114.1g
Blade Tab - Enclosed
Head Width – 47.71mm
Handle Length – 92.04mm
Handle Diameter – 11.05mm
Availability – Out of Production
Final Word – Tradere, you were good.
Bladerunner7
Member
@ Errol, lovely review and happy that you completed the trio. I guess every company that acquires another likes to make a few modifications in the original product to stamp their own signature on it in some way. I know that Shane has already released the Above The Tie S1 and I'm curious to find out how that compares to the older version of it.
Errol
Razor Review Guru
Doing a comparison between the original ATT and the current version is a great idea and one that has been on my mind for a while. I might do that but haven’t purchased the new version yet. One day.
Errol
Razor Review Guru
Blackland Tradere Gen 1 – OC (USA)
There is no doubt that a Tradere razor visually stands out from other razors. Back in 2012 the Tradere must have been a revolution akin to sitting a Lamborghini in a car yard full of Toyotas, the changes from the everyday razor were enormous. There were only two other companies machining stainless steel razors at that time, Ikon and PILS, so the styling of the Tradere made it a very sought after razor for those who could afford it. I have always liked the style of the Tradere/ Blackland Tradere razors with the two stand out points being the handle design and the extensions on the end of the cap that fully encloses the blade. One feature of the Blackland Tradere razor is that it is machined from 303 Stainless Steel and advertised as being the same as the original Tradere. How can that be when Tradere claim the something like 60% of their razors were machined from recycled material? Just about all the comments on the Blackland Tradere Gen 2 are applicable to this razor with one small exception, the handle on the Blackland Tradere Gen 1 matches the length of the original Gen 1 Tradere. Blackland chose to use one handle length, but Tradere had different handle lengths for each generation.
I must have changed my views a bit over the years, as unlike when I reviewed the Tradere Gen 1, I found the Blackland Tradere Gen 1 to be quite usable; aggressive yes, but usable. It is certainly savage and will punish anyone foolish enough to not be confident in their technique and not be paying full attention to the shave. Efficiency is more than the Karve CB Level #D and there is enough positive blade feel to let you know it’s there. While each tooth could be felt, they were polished and slid smoothly over the shave area. There was no need for any tidying up because the Gen 1 left nothing in its wake. If you are concerned about using a very efficient razor, keep away from the Blackland Tradere Gen 1, it is aggressive.
Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Green and Wilkinson Sword
Material – 303 Stainless Steel
Weight – 120g
Blade Tab – Enclosed
Head Width – 47.46mm
Handle Length – 95.25mm
Handle Diameter – 11.18mm
Availability – Blackland
Final Word – Don’t drop your guard
There is no doubt that a Tradere razor visually stands out from other razors. Back in 2012 the Tradere must have been a revolution akin to sitting a Lamborghini in a car yard full of Toyotas, the changes from the everyday razor were enormous. There were only two other companies machining stainless steel razors at that time, Ikon and PILS, so the styling of the Tradere made it a very sought after razor for those who could afford it. I have always liked the style of the Tradere/ Blackland Tradere razors with the two stand out points being the handle design and the extensions on the end of the cap that fully encloses the blade. One feature of the Blackland Tradere razor is that it is machined from 303 Stainless Steel and advertised as being the same as the original Tradere. How can that be when Tradere claim the something like 60% of their razors were machined from recycled material? Just about all the comments on the Blackland Tradere Gen 2 are applicable to this razor with one small exception, the handle on the Blackland Tradere Gen 1 matches the length of the original Gen 1 Tradere. Blackland chose to use one handle length, but Tradere had different handle lengths for each generation.
I must have changed my views a bit over the years, as unlike when I reviewed the Tradere Gen 1, I found the Blackland Tradere Gen 1 to be quite usable; aggressive yes, but usable. It is certainly savage and will punish anyone foolish enough to not be confident in their technique and not be paying full attention to the shave. Efficiency is more than the Karve CB Level #D and there is enough positive blade feel to let you know it’s there. While each tooth could be felt, they were polished and slid smoothly over the shave area. There was no need for any tidying up because the Gen 1 left nothing in its wake. If you are concerned about using a very efficient razor, keep away from the Blackland Tradere Gen 1, it is aggressive.
Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Green and Wilkinson Sword
Material – 303 Stainless Steel
Weight – 120g
Blade Tab – Enclosed
Head Width – 47.46mm
Handle Length – 95.25mm
Handle Diameter – 11.18mm
Availability – Blackland
Final Word – Don’t drop your guard
Vittoria
Member
Hi Errol, that’s a beautiful looking razor mate unfortunately because I’ve only recently dipped my toe into modern razors(I now have five)Blackland Tradere Gen 1 – OC (USA)
There is no doubt that a Tradere razor visually stands out from other razors. Back in 2012 the Tradere must have been a revolution akin to sitting a Lamborghini in a car yard full of Toyotas, the changes from the everyday razor were enormous. There were only two other companies machining stainless steel razors at that time, Ikon and PILS, so the styling of the Tradere made it a very sought after razor for those who could afford it. I have always liked the style of the Tradere/ Blackland Tradere razors with the two stand out points being the handle design and the extensions on the end of the cap that fully encloses the blade. One feature of the Blackland Tradere razor is that it is machined from 303 Stainless Steel and advertised as being the same as the original Tradere. How can that be when Tradere claim the something like 60% of their razors were machined from recycled material? Just about all the comments on the Blackland Tradere Gen 2 are applicable to this razor with one small exception, the handle on the Blackland Tradere Gen 1 matches the length of the original Gen 1 Tradere. Blackland chose to use one handle length, but Tradere had different handle lengths for each generation.
I must have changed my views a bit over the years, as unlike when I reviewed the Tradere Gen 1, I found the Blackland Tradere Gen 1 to be quite usable; aggressive yes, but usable. It is certainly savage and will punish anyone foolish enough to not be confident in their technique and not be paying full attention to the shave. Efficiency is more than the Karve CB Level #D and there is enough positive blade feel to let you know it’s there. While each tooth could be felt, they were polished and slid smoothly over the shave area. There was no need for any tidying up because the Gen 1 left nothing in its wake. If you are concerned about using a very efficient razor, keep away from the Blackland Tradere Gen 1, it is aggressive.
Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Green and Wilkinson Sword
Material – 303 Stainless Steel
Weight – 120g
Blade Tab – Enclosed
Head Width – 47.46mm
Handle Length – 95.25mm
Handle Diameter – 11.18mm
Availability – Blackland
Final Word – Don’t drop your guard
I probably missed the boat on a beautiful razor like this and I’m sure they’re asking a pretty penny on the resale market. Always love your reviews. It’s where I’m learning so much about modern razors
And about the huge step up that they’ve made from vintage Gillette’s
I am really keen on the stainless steel razors
I love the extra heft they have.
Looking forward to your next review have a good weekend mate
Errol
Razor Review Guru
Blackland Tradere were only dropped from the inventory last year so there are plenty around and they do come up for sale from time to time. They are a lot better priced than the true Tradere. Be careful, the OC is fairly aggressive. Maybe Blackland will reintroduce them at some time.Hi Errol, that’s a beautiful looking razor mate unfortunately because I’ve only recently dipped my toe into modern razors(I now have five)
I probably missed the boat on a beautiful razor like this and I’m sure they’re asking a pretty penny on the resale market. Always love your reviews. It’s where I’m learning so much about modern razors
And about the huge step up that they’ve made from vintage Gillette’s
I am really keen on the stainless steel razors
I love the extra heft they have.
Looking forward to your next review have a good weekend mate
lu20vt
Member
Razor of the Year 2024
2024 was a funny old year as far as new razor releases went. I’m no economist but it seems that a worldwide reduction in disposable income has led the sharks of the shaving industry resorting to gimmicks to try and weasel the hard earned dollar. Plastic razors that were cheap to manufacture, aluminium being easy to machine and economical to purchase were always going to be popular, magnets to secure the cap in place and heads fitted at weird angles were some of their methods employed. To my detriment I tried many of these less than humble offerings and many left a bitter taste in my mouth.
It's pleasing to say that most razor providers went about business in an honourable manner with limited editions, different layouts and revised ideas being popular. All this led to a sharp increase in the purchase price of razors, five years ago it was thought positively stupid to invest $200 in a top of the line razor, try $1,000 and above in 2024. Releases of new razors was down compared to recent years but there were still enough to make 2024 an interesting year.
Any razor released in 2024 that I used qualified for a place as Razor of the Year. Without any further beating around the bush, I’m now going to put my head on the chopping block and reveal that my Razor of the Rear for 2024 is the Atelier Durdan Numéro 7. The Atelier Durdan Numéro 7 did not have everything its own way, but a robust design, choice of metals, various efficiency levels, quality manufacture and a great shave saw it through in the final analysis.
Other razors that were tested included:
Errol’s Razors of the Year
- Tedalus Velocity-One – 316L Stainless Steel, A1 presentation, Swiss design and manufacture, no visible square corners, mid-range efficiency and smooth, refined and comfortable
- Barbaros TR4 – 316L Stainless steel, hexagonal handle, large blade gap and nominated neutral blade exposure, not comfortable
- Aylsworth Apex – 316 Stainless steel, quality satin finish, Canadian designed and Chinese manufactured, standard with + plate, delivered a superb shave
- REX Sentry – 316 stainless steel, slant three piece razor, sloppy design, over polished, detail polished out, piss poor
- Saponificio Veresino V2 – Stainless steel head, choice of materials for handle, cap machined at edge to increase shave angle options, pleasant performance, give me more
- Everyday Shaving Stinger – Aluminium, dual comb, magnets used to secure cap, square handle, magnet dislodged causing the cap to not be fully secured, a flop
- CTRL New Wave – Polycarbonate and aluminium, non stainless steel springs, toggle operation, involved blade loading procedure, mild shave, a novelty
- Goodfellas Bayonette – Brass, ageless design, pleasing manners, good stuff
- Rocnel Elite 2024 Brass – Brass, economical, great razor to introduce Rocnel to the masses, positive grip on handle, designed around the Feather blade, low to mid efficiency
- Atelier Durdan Dwemer – Bronze, highly polished medieval finish, inspired by some ancient scrolls, limited edition, pleasant shave, very refined
- Superior Cuts 1 – 3D printed, PLA + plastic, very light, well made, grey in colour, comes with three different plates, would be good for travelling, impressive performance, already superseded
- Alpha Spirit SE – 316L Stainless steel, AC blades, very light stainless steel SE razor, small head even though the handle post does not fit through the blade, impressive performance
- Rocnel Sailor 2024 Ti Master Collection – Titanium, adjustable, Rolex finish, same basic design as stainless steel versions in recent years, under 100g, useable right through adjustment range, best Sailor so far
- Alpha Futura – C954 Bronze, polished to perfection, mid-range efficiency, fantastic
- Atelier Durdan No7 – Bronze, simple design, many options, delivered very pleasing results, stellar performance
- Mutiny R1 – 3D printed using plastic from ocean waste, totally different design, blade not clamped securely, shit
- Titaner TiGlide – New manufacturer, titanium, head positioned at weird angle, impossible to use on down strokes, a total cock up
- Oliworks Oliblade Classic Steel – New manufacturer, 304 stainless steel, adjustable, positive grip, heavy, pleasant to use
- The Razor Company Double Edge Safety Razor – Stainless steel, shave angle dictating angle cap, chunky design, good shave till the trainer wheels kick in.
2017 Razorock Babysmooth Ti
2018 RAW Shaving RS-10
2019 Smart Helix Apollo
2020 Timeless Slim Edition 0.5mm
2021 Blutt BR-1 Rasur
2022 REX Konsul Slant Adjustable
2023 Wolfman WR4
2024 Atelier Durdan Numéro 7
I agree that N.7 is an exceptional DE
Bladerunner7
Member
Blackland Tradere Gen 1 – OC (USA)
There is no doubt that a Tradere razor visually stands out from other razors. Back in 2012 the Tradere must have been a revolution akin to sitting a Lamborghini in a car yard full of Toyotas, the changes from the everyday razor were enormous. There were only two other companies machining stainless steel razors at that time, Ikon and PILS, so the styling of the Tradere made it a very sought after razor for those who could afford it. I have always liked the style of the Tradere/ Blackland Tradere razors with the two stand out points being the handle design and the extensions on the end of the cap that fully encloses the blade. One feature of the Blackland Tradere razor is that it is machined from 303 Stainless Steel and advertised as being the same as the original Tradere. How can that be when Tradere claim the something like 60% of their razors were machined from recycled material? Just about all the comments on the Blackland Tradere Gen 2 are applicable to this razor with one small exception, the handle on the Blackland Tradere Gen 1 matches the length of the original Gen 1 Tradere. Blackland chose to use one handle length, but Tradere had different handle lengths for each generation.
I must have changed my views a bit over the years, as unlike when I reviewed the Tradere Gen 1, I found the Blackland Tradere Gen 1 to be quite usable; aggressive yes, but usable. It is certainly savage and will punish anyone foolish enough to not be confident in their technique and not be paying full attention to the shave. Efficiency is more than the Karve CB Level #D and there is enough positive blade feel to let you know it’s there. While each tooth could be felt, they were polished and slid smoothly over the shave area. There was no need for any tidying up because the Gen 1 left nothing in its wake. If you are concerned about using a very efficient razor, keep away from the Blackland Tradere Gen 1, it is aggressive.
Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Green and Wilkinson Sword
Material – 303 Stainless Steel
Weight – 120g
Blade Tab – Enclosed
Head Width – 47.46mm
Handle Length – 95.25mm
Handle Diameter – 11.18mm
Availability – Blackland
Final Word – Don’t drop your guard
@Errol, terrific review and a macho looking shaver for certain. This one would be perfect for me with the efficiency meter at a high.
I think Shane at Blackland is terrific at his craft. Apparently the tweaks to his ATT S1 release have also been good according to a few shavers who picked it up. I'm not surprised that his Tradere Gen 1 OC also shines in look and performance.
Great work as always, Errol. Your reviews are greatly appreciated.Razor of the Year 2024
2024 was a funny old year as far as new razor releases went. I’m no economist but it seems that a worldwide reduction in disposable income has led the sharks of the shaving industry resorting to gimmicks to try and weasel the hard earned dollar. Plastic razors that were cheap to manufacture, aluminium being easy to machine and economical to purchase were always going to be popular, magnets to secure the cap in place and heads fitted at weird angles were some of their methods employed. To my detriment I tried many of these less than humble offerings and many left a bitter taste in my mouth.
It's pleasing to say that most razor providers went about business in an honourable manner with limited editions, different layouts and revised ideas being popular. All this led to a sharp increase in the purchase price of razors, five years ago it was thought positively stupid to invest $200 in a top of the line razor, try $1,000 and above in 2024. Releases of new razors was down compared to recent years but there were still enough to make 2024 an interesting year.
Any razor released in 2024 that I used qualified for a place as Razor of the Year. Without any further beating around the bush, I’m now going to put my head on the chopping block and reveal that my Razor of the Rear for 2024 is the Atelier Durdan Numéro 7. The Atelier Durdan Numéro 7 did not have everything its own way, but a robust design, choice of metals, various efficiency levels, quality manufacture and a great shave saw it through in the final analysis.
Other razors that were tested included:
Errol’s Razors of the Year
- Tedalus Velocity-One – 316L Stainless Steel, A1 presentation, Swiss design and manufacture, no visible square corners, mid-range efficiency and smooth, refined and comfortable
- Barbaros TR4 – 316L Stainless steel, hexagonal handle, large blade gap and nominated neutral blade exposure, not comfortable
- Aylsworth Apex – 316 Stainless steel, quality satin finish, Canadian designed and Chinese manufactured, standard with + plate, delivered a superb shave
- REX Sentry – 316 stainless steel, slant three piece razor, sloppy design, over polished, detail polished out, piss poor
- Saponificio Veresino V2 – Stainless steel head, choice of materials for handle, cap machined at edge to increase shave angle options, pleasant performance, give me more
- Everyday Shaving Stinger – Aluminium, dual comb, magnets used to secure cap, square handle, magnet dislodged causing the cap to not be fully secured, a flop
- CTRL New Wave – Polycarbonate and aluminium, non stainless steel springs, toggle operation, involved blade loading procedure, mild shave, a novelty
- Goodfellas Bayonette – Brass, ageless design, pleasing manners, good stuff
- Rocnel Elite 2024 Brass – Brass, economical, great razor to introduce Rocnel to the masses, positive grip on handle, designed around the Feather blade, low to mid efficiency
- Atelier Durdan Dwemer – Bronze, highly polished medieval finish, inspired by some ancient scrolls, limited edition, pleasant shave, very refined
- Superior Cuts 1 – 3D printed, PLA + plastic, very light, well made, grey in colour, comes with three different plates, would be good for travelling, impressive performance, already superseded
- Alpha Spirit SE – 316L Stainless steel, AC blades, very light stainless steel SE razor, small head even though the handle post does not fit through the blade, impressive performance
- Rocnel Sailor 2024 Ti Master Collection – Titanium, adjustable, Rolex finish, same basic design as stainless steel versions in recent years, under 100g, useable right through adjustment range, best Sailor so far
- Alpha Futura – C954 Bronze, polished to perfection, mid-range efficiency, fantastic
- Atelier Durdan No7 – Bronze, simple design, many options, delivered very pleasing results, stellar performance
- Mutiny R1 – 3D printed using plastic from ocean waste, totally different design, blade not clamped securely, shit
- Titaner TiGlide – New manufacturer, titanium, head positioned at weird angle, impossible to use on down strokes, a total cock up
- Oliworks Oliblade Classic Steel – New manufacturer, 304 stainless steel, adjustable, positive grip, heavy, pleasant to use
- The Razor Company Double Edge Safety Razor – Stainless steel, shave angle dictating angle cap, chunky design, good shave till the trainer wheels kick in.
2017 Razorock Babysmooth Ti
2018 RAW Shaving RS-10
2019 Smart Helix Apollo
2020 Timeless Slim Edition 0.5mm
2021 Blutt BR-1 Rasur
2022 REX Konsul Slant Adjustable
2023 Wolfman WR4
2024 Atelier Durdan Numéro 7
Errol
Razor Review Guru
Baili DB-B3PS (China)
How could I pass up the opportunity to purchase an advertised fully stainless steel razor from Baili when I’ve had such a good result from previous Bailis. My ears pricked when I saw this one, but that enthusiasm was dulled, all of a sudden it went blunt when I read that it was dual combed. Releasing a stainless steel razor under the bench-mark 100g should be every companies goal and to Baili’s credit they achieved a weight 16% lower than the bench mark - 84g. Dimensions of the handle are generous, but it has been hollowed out and plugged to make it look solid; without doubt that hollow handle is the secret to Baili’s achievement. Abley assisting the handle in keeping the weight down is the lightweight cap; at first it felt too light to be stainless steel but now when I look at it, I’m coming around to accepting that it might be stainless steel. There’s more to the theme of the Baili not being fully stainless steel; looking at the small section of thread that I can see in the handle, it looks to be more like brass to me. Sure the handle looks shiny, but to my thinking it is electroplated brass. Add in a total lack of machine or cast marks, and a wavy finish to the under parts of the plate and I’m very suspicious. One side of the plate features an open comb while the other side is scalloped. Blade clamping is taken care of by two rails on top of the plate, they are not positioned to align with the edge of the cap but are close enough for there to be positive clamping. Each part of the razor is highly polished, even the underside of the cap and this makes the razor truly sparkle when the light hits it.
For the first shave I selected the scalloped edge. I’m sure there will be someone who will nick themselves while shaving with the scalloped edge, but I can’t see how. With efficiency somewhere between Karve CB Level #B and #C and neutral blade, it felt as safe as a house, the shave was smooth and most certainly comfortable. Although it got the job done; I would have preferred more efficiency and a bit of positive blade would not have gone astray. Time to use the other side and see what the OC side does, in truth, not much more. Efficiency had raised slightly to just under Karve CB level #C and there was a small amount of blade feel. Add in OC teeth that were chunky and did not feel comfortable in use, the result was disappointing. Uncertainty regarding the claim that the DB-B3PS is made of stainless steel, being dual plated and disappointing results leave me not being particularly interested in this razor. There are far better razors available.
Blades Used – Royal II and Feather
Material – Stainless steel
Weight – 83.9g
Blade Tab – Covered
Head Width – 44.65mm
Handle Length – 97.2mm
Handle Diameter – 12.58mm
Availability – AliExpress
Final Word – Another razor
How could I pass up the opportunity to purchase an advertised fully stainless steel razor from Baili when I’ve had such a good result from previous Bailis. My ears pricked when I saw this one, but that enthusiasm was dulled, all of a sudden it went blunt when I read that it was dual combed. Releasing a stainless steel razor under the bench-mark 100g should be every companies goal and to Baili’s credit they achieved a weight 16% lower than the bench mark - 84g. Dimensions of the handle are generous, but it has been hollowed out and plugged to make it look solid; without doubt that hollow handle is the secret to Baili’s achievement. Abley assisting the handle in keeping the weight down is the lightweight cap; at first it felt too light to be stainless steel but now when I look at it, I’m coming around to accepting that it might be stainless steel. There’s more to the theme of the Baili not being fully stainless steel; looking at the small section of thread that I can see in the handle, it looks to be more like brass to me. Sure the handle looks shiny, but to my thinking it is electroplated brass. Add in a total lack of machine or cast marks, and a wavy finish to the under parts of the plate and I’m very suspicious. One side of the plate features an open comb while the other side is scalloped. Blade clamping is taken care of by two rails on top of the plate, they are not positioned to align with the edge of the cap but are close enough for there to be positive clamping. Each part of the razor is highly polished, even the underside of the cap and this makes the razor truly sparkle when the light hits it.
For the first shave I selected the scalloped edge. I’m sure there will be someone who will nick themselves while shaving with the scalloped edge, but I can’t see how. With efficiency somewhere between Karve CB Level #B and #C and neutral blade, it felt as safe as a house, the shave was smooth and most certainly comfortable. Although it got the job done; I would have preferred more efficiency and a bit of positive blade would not have gone astray. Time to use the other side and see what the OC side does, in truth, not much more. Efficiency had raised slightly to just under Karve CB level #C and there was a small amount of blade feel. Add in OC teeth that were chunky and did not feel comfortable in use, the result was disappointing. Uncertainty regarding the claim that the DB-B3PS is made of stainless steel, being dual plated and disappointing results leave me not being particularly interested in this razor. There are far better razors available.
Blades Used – Royal II and Feather
Material – Stainless steel
Weight – 83.9g
Blade Tab – Covered
Head Width – 44.65mm
Handle Length – 97.2mm
Handle Diameter – 12.58mm
Availability – AliExpress
Final Word – Another razor
Bladerunner7
Member
@Errol, it was high time 'Another Razor' made an appearance after all those gorgeous razors in the past few weeks. I was keen on finding out more about this razor when i saw the design a few months back. I'm glad you took it for a run first.
The Cheapest as in the Baili BT 131 is still King for me among their razors, the head looks like a Tech but is way more efficient.
The Cheapest as in the Baili BT 131 is still King for me among their razors, the head looks like a Tech but is way more efficient.
klinker
... seems to have LOTS of brushes
Another extremely detailed review @Errol. I did have some fun with the Baili DB-B3PS, but yes, it is in fact just another razor.Baili DB-B3PS (China)
How could I pass up the opportunity to purchase an advertised fully stainless steel razor from Baili when I’ve had such a good result from previous Bailis. My ears pricked when I saw this one, but that enthusiasm was dulled, all of a sudden it went blunt when I read that it was dual combed. Releasing a stainless steel razor under the bench-mark 100g should be every companies goal and to Baili’s credit they achieved a weight 16% lower than the bench mark - 84g. Dimensions of the handle are generous, but it has been hollowed out and plugged to make it look solid; without doubt that hollow handle is the secret to Baili’s achievement. Abley assisting the handle in keeping the weight down is the lightweight cap; at first it felt too light to be stainless steel but now when I look at it, I’m coming around to accepting that it might be stainless steel. There’s more to the theme of the Baili not being fully stainless steel; looking at the small section of thread that I can see in the handle, it looks to be more like brass to me. Sure the handle looks shiny, but to my thinking it is electroplated brass. Add in a total lack of machine or cast marks, and a wavy finish to the under parts of the plate and I’m very suspicious. One side of the plate features an open comb while the other side is scalloped. Blade clamping is taken care of by two rails on top of the plate, they are not positioned to align with the edge of the cap but are close enough for there to be positive clamping. Each part of the razor is highly polished, even the underside of the cap and this makes the razor truly sparkle when the light hits it.
For the first shave I selected the scalloped edge. I’m sure there will be someone who will nick themselves while shaving with the scalloped edge, but I can’t see how. With efficiency somewhere between Karve CB Level #B and #C and neutral blade, it felt as safe as a house, the shave was smooth and most certainly comfortable. Although it got the job done; I would have preferred more efficiency and a bit of positive blade would not have gone astray. Time to use the other side and see what the OC side does, in truth, not much more. Efficiency had raised slightly to just under Karve CB level #C and there was a small amount of blade feel. Add in OC teeth that were chunky and did not feel comfortable in use, the result was disappointing. Uncertainty regarding the claim that the DB-B3PS is made of stainless steel, being dual plated and disappointing results leave me not being particularly interested in this razor. There are far better razors available.
Blades Used – Royal II and Feather
Material – Stainless steel
Weight – 83.9g
Blade Tab – Covered
Head Width – 44.65mm
Handle Length – 97.2mm
Handle Diameter – 12.58mm
Availability – AliExpress
Final Word – Another razor
TobyC
Member
They do make a stainless head razor, but that one looks like the chrome plated zamak head version.Baili DB-B3PS (China)
How could I pass up the opportunity to purchase an advertised fully stainless steel razor from Baili when I’ve had such a good result from previous Bailis. My ears pricked when I saw this one, but that enthusiasm was dulled, all of a sudden it went blunt when I read that it was dual combed. Releasing a stainless steel razor under the bench-mark 100g should be every companies goal and to Baili’s credit they achieved a weight 16% lower than the bench mark - 84g. Dimensions of the handle are generous, but it has been hollowed out and plugged to make it look solid; without doubt that hollow handle is the secret to Baili’s achievement. Abley assisting the handle in keeping the weight down is the lightweight cap; at first it felt too light to be stainless steel but now when I look at it, I’m coming around to accepting that it might be stainless steel. There’s more to the theme of the Baili not being fully stainless steel; looking at the small section of thread that I can see in the handle, it looks to be more like brass to me. Sure the handle looks shiny, but to my thinking it is electroplated brass. Add in a total lack of machine or cast marks, and a wavy finish to the under parts of the plate and I’m very suspicious. One side of the plate features an open comb while the other side is scalloped. Blade clamping is taken care of by two rails on top of the plate, they are not positioned to align with the edge of the cap but are close enough for there to be positive clamping. Each part of the razor is highly polished, even the underside of the cap and this makes the razor truly sparkle when the light hits it.
For the first shave I selected the scalloped edge. I’m sure there will be someone who will nick themselves while shaving with the scalloped edge, but I can’t see how. With efficiency somewhere between Karve CB Level #B and #C and neutral blade, it felt as safe as a house, the shave was smooth and most certainly comfortable. Although it got the job done; I would have preferred more efficiency and a bit of positive blade would not have gone astray. Time to use the other side and see what the OC side does, in truth, not much more. Efficiency had raised slightly to just under Karve CB level #C and there was a small amount of blade feel. Add in OC teeth that were chunky and did not feel comfortable in use, the result was disappointing. Uncertainty regarding the claim that the DB-B3PS is made of stainless steel, being dual plated and disappointing results leave me not being particularly interested in this razor. There are far better razors available.
Blades Used – Royal II and Feather
Material – Stainless steel
Weight – 83.9g
Blade Tab – Covered
Head Width – 44.65mm
Handle Length – 97.2mm
Handle Diameter – 12.58mm
Availability – AliExpress
Final Word – Another razor
The stainless one looks dull, not shiny.