Weekly Razor Review

Muhle R89 – 80th Anniversary Model (Germany)



Muhle released the machined stainless steel version of their well respected R89 razor earlier this year to celebrate their 80th anniversary in the wet shaving industry. They made sure everyone knew what the release of the razor was for; it’s there, displayed proudly in large letters on the cap ’80 Years Muhle Razurkultur’ for all the world to see; being in business that long it will not do any harm to let the world know how good you are. There is not a machine mark to be seen on any surface, the underside of the cap and the centre section on the top of the plate are a satin finish and everything else highly polished. If you’ve ever used a R89 Muhle then you will know all about their 80th Anniversary; two raised bars on the plate for blade clamping, matching flats on the cap, round blade posts that protrude through the plate and a serrated edge at face contact. Muhle have drilled and plugged the handle to get the weight down to the 80+g that they have achieved. When I came back to wet shaving, it was an R89 head on a Sophist handle that was the tool of choice, this should be old home week for me.

80 years of waiting for a stainless steel version of the R89 razor might seem like an eternity, but it certainly proved to be worth waiting for. Muhle’s stainless steel R89 delivered everything I look for in a razor, my ideal efficiency level, a close and comfortable shave, smoothness, while always feeling confident in its ability to perform. Efficiency was slightly higher than the plated zinc version but still under the Karve CB level #D and there was sufficient positive blade feel to easily get the shave done. Swapping from the Minora blade to the Feather blade made little, if any difference to the stainless steel R89, it accepted the blade change in its stride. If your feel in razors is anywhere like mine, you too will enjoy the 80th Anniversary R89, another great razor.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Feather

Material – Stainless steel

Weight – 81.1g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.45mm

Handle Length – 87.42mm

Handle Diameter – 12.53mm

Availability – Muhle

Final Word – A special celebration
 
Errol said:
Efficiency was slightly higher than the plated zinc version but still under the Karve CB level #D and there was sufficient positive blade feel to easily get the shave done.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a Weber style shave feel, can you compare side by side with your Weber razor @Errol :unsure:
 
Errol said:
Muhle R89 – 80th Anniversary Model (Germany)



Muhle released the machined stainless steel version of their well respected R89 razor earlier this year to celebrate their 80th anniversary in the wet shaving industry. They made sure everyone knew what the release of the razor was for; it’s there, displayed proudly in large letters on the cap ’80 Years Muhle Razurkultur’ for all the world to see; being in business that long it will not do any harm to let the world know how good you are. There is not a machine mark to be seen on any surface, the underside of the cap and the centre section on the top of the plate are a satin finish and everything else highly polished. If you’ve ever used a R89 Muhle then you will know all about their 80th Anniversary; two raised bars on the plate for blade clamping, matching flats on the cap, round blade posts that protrude through the plate and a serrated edge at face contact. Muhle have drilled and plugged the handle to get the weight down to the 80+g that they have achieved. When I came back to wet shaving, it was an R89 head on a Sophist handle that was the tool of choice, this should be old home week for me.

80 years of waiting for a stainless steel version of the R89 razor might seem like an eternity, but it certainly proved to be worth waiting for. Muhle’s stainless steel R89 delivered everything I look for in a razor, my ideal efficiency level, a close and comfortable shave, smoothness, while always feeling confident in its ability to perform. Efficiency was slightly higher than the plated zinc version but still under the Karve CB level #D and there was sufficient positive blade feel to easily get the shave done. Swapping from the Minora blade to the Feather blade made little, if any difference to the stainless steel R89, it accepted the blade change in its stride. If your feel in razors is anywhere like mine, you too will enjoy the 80th Anniversary R89, another great razor.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Feather

Material – Stainless steel

Weight – 81.1g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.45mm

Handle Length – 87.42mm

Handle Diameter – 12.53mm

Availability – Muhle

Final Word – A special celebration
Click to expand...
We all have Razors that are special to us. For me the gateway into DE Shaving was the Muhle R89 after I tried out the Merkur 34C and many Gillette Techs. Somehow never liked the latter two, found them too mild for my preference. Liked the Weber much better and the Razorock Goat Plus even more. Having said that, we each have our preferences and I find the 34C styled base plate a challenge to handle the neck area specially on the XTG pass and that's for me personally. No issues there with the R89 or for that matter the Haircut & Shave Co. No.75 that you likened to the shave delivery of the Weber.

This is a superb review @Errol and one that truly honors the history and Legacy of Muhle. Like you I loved this Razor big time.
 
Merkur 34 INOX (Germany)



Merkur’s stainless steel 34 INOX was release mid-year, around the same time as the stainless steel version of the Muhle R89 so there is no surprise in this week’s razor selection. Being based on the ever popular 34C razor it will, if it shaves anything like the original, negate having to scour BST’s and ebay in the search for Webers, Goats and the many other copy-cat designs trying to cash in on Merkur’s success. I never went to the degree of measuring every part of the INOX to compare it against the original, but to the eye it is ever so close. Pressed into the plate is the end of the handle making this a two piece razor with the screw securing the cap positioned at the end of the handle. I continuously had difficulty getting the thread on the handle post to engage, and when it did the cap had to be controlled to align it with the plate. With its short handle being only a sleeve, having the INOX weigh in at 77g was easily achieved. The original 34C was praised for its exemplary mirror finish, however with the INOX, Merkur has presented it in a dull satin finish, very workmanlike. Merkur’s INOX did not escape having its name being etched on the cap, but it not as ‘in your face’ as that of the 80th Anniversary R89.

If you purchased the INOX thinking that it would shave even fractionally different to the Merkur 34C; bad luck, it shaves very much the same. Karve CB Level #C efficiency and a very well judged amount of positive blade. Now there is nothing wrong with the efficiency level, it will truly follow the legacy of the 34C in being the ideal razor for the newcomer to wet shaving. There is nothing outstanding about the stainless steel INOX but is does deliver a safe, smooth and comfortable shave time after time.

Blades Used – Royal II and Gillette 7 O’Clock Black

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 77g

Blade Tab - Covered

Head Width – 43.17mm

Handle Length – 76.49mm

Handle Diameter – 11.66mm

Availability – Blade and Beard

Final Word – Finally, a true stainless steel 34C
 
Errol said:
Merkur 34 INOX (Germany)



Merkur’s stainless steel 34 INOX was release mid-year, around the same time as the stainless steel version of the Muhle R89 so there is no surprise in this week’s razor selection. Being based on the ever popular 34C razor it will, if it shaves anything like the original, negate having to scour BST’s and ebay in the search for Webers, Goats and the many other copy-cat designs trying to cash in on Merkur’s success. I never went to the degree of measuring every part of the INOX to compare it against the original, but to the eye it is ever so close. Pressed into the plate is the end of the handle making this a two piece razor with the screw securing the cap positioned at the end of the handle. I continuously had difficulty getting the thread on the handle post to engage, and when it did the cap had to be controlled to align it with the plate. With its short handle being only a sleeve, having the INOX weigh in at 77g was easily achieved. The original 34C was praised for its exemplary mirror finish, however with the INOX, Merkur has presented it in a dull satin finish, very workmanlike. Merkur’s INOX did not escape having its name being etched on the cap, but it not as ‘in your face’ as that of the 80th Anniversary R89.

If you purchased the INOX thinking that it would shave even fractionally different to the Merkur 34C; bad luck, it shaves very much the same. Karve CB Level #C efficiency and a very well judged amount of positive blade. Now there is nothing wrong with the efficiency level, it will truly follow the legacy of the 34C in being the ideal razor for the newcomer to wet shaving. There is nothing outstanding about the stainless steel INOX but is does deliver a safe, smooth and comfortable shave time after time.

Blades Used – Royal II and Gillette 7 O’Clock Black

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 77g

Blade Tab - Covered

Head Width – 43.17mm

Handle Length – 76.49mm

Handle Diameter – 11.66mm

Availability – Blade and Beard

Final Word – Finally, a true stainless steel 34C
Click to expand...
I won't be getting this, I'm very happy with the original 34C & G in my den, don't need another one, and also the FANTASTIC bloody Weber Razor in my den as well..... Thank GOD for the Weber.

@Errol is this the Royal II blade brand you've been using?

409-015-50_600x.jpg
 
klinker said:
Since Muhle isn't shipping to the USA, where can I pick up a new Weber?
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Mate, just keep a look out on FB and the Bay, they pop up every now and then. Have seen two sold on the Bay for a little more than their original price.

If you remember, @Errol once said that the Haircut & Shave Co No.75 was a similar shave to the one delivered by the Weber. Have used both and they are superb razors but personally, I prefer the H&S mixed metal and that's the one I've kept. It is a sublime shaver, smooth as silk, gentle on teh face and excellent efficiency.
 
Errol said:
Merkur 34 INOX (Germany)



Merkur’s stainless steel 34 INOX was release mid-year, around the same time as the stainless steel version of the Muhle R89 so there is no surprise in this week’s razor selection. Being based on the ever popular 34C razor it will, if it shaves anything like the original, negate having to scour BST’s and ebay in the search for Webers, Goats and the many other copy-cat designs trying to cash in on Merkur’s success. I never went to the degree of measuring every part of the INOX to compare it against the original, but to the eye it is ever so close. Pressed into the plate is the end of the handle making this a two piece razor with the screw securing the cap positioned at the end of the handle. I continuously had difficulty getting the thread on the handle post to engage, and when it did the cap had to be controlled to align it with the plate. With its short handle being only a sleeve, having the INOX weigh in at 77g was easily achieved. The original 34C was praised for its exemplary mirror finish, however with the INOX, Merkur has presented it in a dull satin finish, very workmanlike. Merkur’s INOX did not escape having its name being etched on the cap, but it not as ‘in your face’ as that of the 80th Anniversary R89.

If you purchased the INOX thinking that it would shave even fractionally different to the Merkur 34C; bad luck, it shaves very much the same. Karve CB Level #C efficiency and a very well judged amount of positive blade. Now there is nothing wrong with the efficiency level, it will truly follow the legacy of the 34C in being the ideal razor for the newcomer to wet shaving. There is nothing outstanding about the stainless steel INOX but is does deliver a safe, smooth and comfortable shave time after time.

Blades Used – Royal II and Gillette 7 O’Clock Black

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 77g

Blade Tab - Covered

Head Width – 43.17mm

Handle Length – 76.49mm

Handle Diameter – 11.66mm

Availability – Blade and Beard

Final Word – Finally, a true stainless steel 34C
Click to expand...
Terrific review @Errol and honest as always. The 34 INOX to be fair wasn't just a little too late but a disappointment at the price point. Unlike the Muhle R 89 SS which is an improvement on it's Zamak sibling, the Merkur does nothing better than the original 34C.
 
Oliworks M3tiorite Ti - #3 Plate (USA)



They don’t miss you if you choose titanium, well over twice the price of the stainless steel variant, but they do include three plates that should go a long way in allowing you to achieve the efficiency of the shave you desire. While the Ti razor has many similarities to the stainless steel version, the back of the plate is completely flat and not convex like the stainless steel version. Had it not been different, I would probably have passed up on this review. Its handle is from the same mould as the stainless steel version and there is little visual difference to the cap. Handle grip should not be an issue as the raised knurling is relatively high even though the protrusions have been polished smooth. Blade clamping is between an angled corner of the plate and the flats on the cap. At the end of the day it makes little difference if the blade posts are round or elongated but for a top line razor, I prefer them to be elongated, these are elongated. Moving to the thread engagement; top marks again, it’s ever so smooth and positive. An excellent polished finish completes a spectacular razor. Oliworks employ a unique numbering system for their plate efficiency levels, the number of tails behind the head of the meteor identifies the plate efficiency.

Initially I was planning on using the #2 plate but after checking the results of the stainless steel M3tiorite decided to use the #3 plate; why suffer through the agony of an average shave using the #2 plate when I’m a lot more confident of a quality shave with the #3 plate. I was over the moon with the selection of the #3 plate but in the final assessment, think I would have enjoyed the #2 plate just as much. Efficiency of the #3 plated M3tiorite was marginally on the high side of Karve CB level #D but did it ever mow down those whiskers. Its positive blade feel was almost perfectly matched to my requirement and the M3tiorite was very user friendly, I wouldn’t want to change it for the world; the shave itself was smooth and comfortable. I appreciated the M3tiorite fitted with the #3 plate and will revisit the #2 plated version at a later date.

Blades Used – Kai and Filoso

Material – Grade 5 (Ti-6A1-4V) Titanium

Weight – 62.4g

Blade Tab - Covered

Head Width – 43.01mm

Handle Length – 80.50mm

Handle Diameter – 12.58mm

Availability – Oliworks

Final Word – Slick performer
 
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