WEEKLY SHAVING SOAP REVIEW

[Bladerunner7]

A Brief Introduction -

“A little bit of soap, Will wash away your lipstick on my face” sang The Jarmels and those lyrics stuck in my head since childhood influencing my love for everything to do with soap, so much for the song being one of heartache. A Grandmother that kept all her empty soap wrappers in the corner of clothes drawers would further influence my fascination for soaps with different fragrances, essential oils, lather quality, organic certification and the post shower feel on the skin. So, when I transitioned from cartridge razors and foam canisters to DE Shaving in 2021, it was only natural that I would dive into the world of Shaving soaps…old school, modern and Artisan creations. Over the last three and a half years I have been fortunate to have had the opportunity of trying out more than 200 soaps, sticks, pucks and shaving creams from different Artisans and Brands through wise purchases, small samples, trades and generous friends.

I wanted to share the experience of using these wonderful lather creations and what they have to offer and reached out to Alfredus and Errol, a thumbs up from these two gentlemen was enough to get me started. Much of what will follow in this thread is aimed towards helping all shavers seeking information on a particular Shaving Soap base, Artisan, Brand and even new releases from time to time. These reviews are based purely on my personal journey with a particular shaving soap, others experiences may differ and I will always respect that. My intention was that we guys at P&C have a Shaving Soap thread every week that could complement Errol’s Numero Uno Razor reviews. The original plan was to title it 'The Lather Chronicles' but decided to go with a simple easy to find title.

Oh yeah, I'm big on everything from The Blues to early 90's rap with a soft corner for the 70s rockers and early Metallica. I still love Doo Wop as well and in case you want to check out that Jarmels Classic, here's the link.

Time to unpack those soaps now.

 

[Bladerunner7]

HENDRIX CLASSICS & CO. - YEAR OF THE DRAGON (USA)

First Look - Hendrix Classics & Co Shaving Soap tubs have always drawn my attention with their unique artwork and for my first review I went with the cover pic that topped them all for me…Year Of The Dragon. A Soap to commemorate the Year of the Wood Dragon (Wood being the element of 2024) I think is the coolest idea ever. The Illustration of the Dragon with metallic overtones and the flaming colors makes this container a keeper for me and If owner Pete Hendrix threw in a few stickers , I would grab them.

First Whiff - Inspired by Armani’s Stronger with You Leather, the nose behind this soap is Rich Hansen of Rich Man Shaving. Year of The Dragon boasts of Elemi, Chestnut and spices at the top with a heat of lavender from Provence and sage sitting stop leather, vanilla, Oud and Guaiac wood. For me what I got when I opened the container was a chestnut note not like roasted chestnuts but more like a preserve or a spread (I love chestnuts big time), this is followed by a sweet balsamic layer probably from the Elemi, the gentle lavender of Provence hovers lightly above the opening along with a touch of Guaiac wood and then it hits you in the face with a blast of vanilla like the original Armani Fragrance. If you are a vanilla fan like me then this Soap would be a perfect fit for you but mind you the Vanilla isn’t like an artificial essence or fragrance oil kind but it is more a rich intense version like the Nielsen Massey pure extract used by top bakers worldwide.

First Lather – Boasting of Cocoa Butter. Kokum Butter, Illipe Butter and Stearic Acid as the first four ingredients, along with Reconstituted Aloe Juice, Shea Butter, Castor Oil, Glycerin, Betonite Clay and Tussah Silk, it came as no surprise that this soap would yield a creamy and thick lather which it did. That concentration of butters that headline the ingredients are the starts of this base. A moderate amount of hydration was good to get the Lather started and while I added a few drops of water about four times during the process, the lather got shinier and slicker with every swirl of the Brush. It took me two minutes to get a bowl full of lather that looked like a reduced fat version of Greek Yoghurt. A little soap goes a long way with this one making it a value for money buy. A reminder that I need to use less as well the next time I shave with it.

First Performance – Sub topic aside, this was my first outing with the Year Of The Dragon and my first pass during the shave was stress free with a decent amount of cushion and protection, I did feel my cheeks for that post shave slickness but it wasn’t there, no dryness either. Proceeded with the second pass and had a wonderful shave with that amazing blend of vanilla and chestnuts coming through in spades. I kept reminding myself that this was a soap for special occasions and not your everyday shave, it does evoke that feeling with its wonderful fragrance.

First Opinion – Hendrix Classics & Co are known for producing top shelf soaps that stand as equals against their tallow and lanolin rich rivals. Their boast of using the finest ingredients with intense fragrances powered by Rich Man Shaving can be experienced through the Year Of The Dragon. This is a soap that I would use before a dinner on the town or Sunday Service, it is that good. The post shave feel is a very different one compared to other top shelf offerings. No slickness but a clean and just showered skin feel that had my cheeks feeling supple and lightly moisturized like what you get after using an oil free moisturizer. If I ran out of this tub, I would buy another in a heartbeat.

Cover Art Work – 10 / 10

Lather Quality – 8 / 10

Fragrance – 8 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 7 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 7 / 10

Value – 9 / 10

Total Point Score – 57 / 70

 

[Errol]

HENDRIX CLASSICS & CO. - YEAR OF THE DRAGON (USA)

First Look - Hendrix Classics & Co Shaving Soap tubs have always drawn my attention with their unique artwork and for my first review I went with the cover pic that topped them all for me…Year Of The Dragon. A Soap to commemorate the Year of the Wood Dragon (Wood being the element of 2024) I think is the coolest idea ever. The Illustration of the Dragon with metallic overtones and the flaming colors makes this container a keeper for me and If owner Pete Hendrix threw in a few stickers , I would grab them.

First Whiff - Inspired by Armani’s Stronger with You Leather, the nose behind this soap is Rich Hansen of Rich Man Shaving. Year of The Dragon boasts of Elemi, Chestnut and spices at the top with a heat of lavender from Provence and sage sitting stop leather, vanilla, Oud and Guaiac wood. For me what I got when I opened the container was a chestnut note not like roasted chestnuts but more like a preserve or a spread (I love chestnuts big time), this is followed by a sweet balsamic layer probably from the Elemi, the gentle lavender of Provence hovers lightly above the opening along with a touch of Guaiac wood and then it hits you in the face with a blast of vanilla like the original Armani Fragrance. If you are a vanilla fan like me then this Soap would be a perfect fit for you but mind you the Vanilla isn’t like an artificial essence or fragrance oil kind but it is more a rich intense version like the Nielsen Massey pure extract used by top bakers worldwide.

First Lather – Boasting of Cocoa Butter. Kokum Butter, Illipe Butter and Stearic Acid as the first four ingredients, along with Reconstituted Aloe Juice, Shea Butter, Castor Oil, Glycerin, Betonite Clay and Tussah Silk, it came as no surprise that this soap would yield a creamy and thick lather which it did. That concentration of butters that headline the ingredients are the starts of this base. A moderate amount of hydration was good to get the Lather started and while I added a few drops of water about four times during the process, the lather got shinier and slicker with every swirl of the Brush. It took me two minutes to get a bowl full of lather that looked like a reduced fat version of Greek Yoghurt. A little soap goes a long way with this one making it a value for money buy. A reminder that I need to use less as well the next time I shave with it.

First Performance – Sub topic aside, this was my first outing with the Year Of The Dragon and my first pass during the shave was stress free with a decent amount of cushion and protection, I did feel my cheeks for that post shave slickness but it wasn’t there, no dryness either. Proceeded with the second pass and had a wonderful shave with that amazing blend of vanilla and chestnuts coming through in spades. I kept reminding myself that this was a soap for special occasions and not your everyday shave, it does evoke that feeling with its wonderful fragrance.

First Opinion – Hendrix Classics & Co are known for producing top shelf soaps that stand as equals against their tallow and lanolin rich rivals. Their boast of using the finest ingredients with intense fragrances powered by Rich Man Shaving can be experienced through the Year Of The Dragon. This is a soap that I would use before a dinner on the town or Sunday Service, it is that good. The post shave feel is a very different one compared to other top shelf offerings. No slickness but a clean and just showered skin feel that had my cheeks feeling supple and lightly moisturized like what you get after using an oil free moisturizer. If I ran out of this tub, I would buy another in a heartbeat.

Cover Art Work – 10 / 10

Lather Quality – 8 / 10

Fragrance – 8 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 7 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 7 / 10

Value – 9 / 10

Total Point Score – 57 / 70

@Bladerunner7 Enjoyed the read. Now the conviction of using a soap and writing a review regularly begins. Good luck with your venture, looking forward to what comes next.

 

[Bladerunner7]

@Bladerunner7 Enjoyed the read. Now the conviction of using a soap and writing a review regularly begins. Good luck with your venture, looking forward to what comes next.

Thanks Errol. Much appreciated. Have you to thank as well for all the tips,advice and encouragement as always. Will keep you company with the reviews from this week on.

 

[LesC]

Thanks Errol. Much appreciated. Have you to thank as well for all the tips,advice and encouragement as always. Will keep you company with the reviews from this week on.

Darn it!! With @Errol and @TroyTools looks like another 'rabbit' hole has opened

 

[alfredus]

Fantastic idea and great review @Bladerunner7 - many thanks for the initiative and I cannot wait for the next one over

 

[Bladerunner7]

Thanks @alfredus and @LesC. I left out the lather shots for the HC & Co Year Of The Dragon when posting the review but have included a few here. Will try and post at least one Lather shot in the review from now on.

 

[Garry357]

@Bladerunner7 Enjoyed the read. Now the conviction of using a soap and writing a review regularly begins. Good luck with your venture, looking forward to what comes next.

Agree, this can be a very interesting thread. Looking forward to reading your soap reviews.

 

[Bladerunner7]

Cheers @Garry357

 

[Bladerunner7]

CATIE'S BUBBLES - PURPLE GRAPEFRUIT (USA)

First Look - Popping bubble wrap, Carbon Dioxide bubbles in a champagne glass, blowing soap bubbles as a kid, who doesn’t like bubbles and the stress busting power they hold within them. The soap film wrapped around air kind pop up in our lives every day, so It wasn’t the cover art on the tub of Purple Grapefruit that drew my attention but the company name and the soap title itself. The tub cover features the core and the juice sacs of the Grapefruit in a psychedelic purple, it is pretty much what you see is what you get.

Side Note - I love the history behind the brand name and had to make a mention of it. Owner Chris Cullen has a son who is autistic and due to the family focusing much attention on him, his little daughter Catie felt neglected back then. What does a good father do ? Seeks her permission to use her name for his to be launched Artisan Soap brand in 2012. That labor of a Father’s love saw a hobby based side hustle transform into a well-loved global brand with Chris cruising through 14 years of being a successful Artisan soap maker, one that never shies away from helping other new artisans. That endearing story was good enough for me to pick up a tub anyway.

First Whiff – The ingredient profile with few ingredients including Stearic acid, water, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, shea butter, fragrance, sodium hydroxide, jojoba oil, sodium lactate, and glycerin had me convinced that the lather would be anything but thick and creamy, I couldn’t have been more wrong. I won’t call this soap thirsty but it does need a bit of hydration when bowl lathering. I worked up a basic lather with a my wet Yaqi Caramel Cats Whisker brush before adding a little water and swirling the brush again, four cycles of this and I had a thick dense lather that smelt good enough to eat. Have added an image of the Brush with the lather and it did look and smell like a grapefruit ice cream, that’s true when lathering the grapefruit scent just shines through.

First Lather – The ingredient profile with few ingredients including Stearic acid, water, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, shea butter, fragrance, sodium hydroxide, jojoba oil, sodium lactate, and glycerin had me convinced that the lather would be anything but thick and creamy, I couldn’t have been more wrong. I won’t call this soap thirsty but it does need a bit of hydration when bowl lathering. I worked up a basic lather with a my wet Yaqi Caramel Cat's Whisker synthetic brush before adding a little more water and swirling the brush again, four cycles of this and I had a thick dense lather that smelt good enough to eat. Have added an image of the Brush with the lather and it did look and smell like a grapefruit ice cream, that’s true when lathering the grapefruit scent just shines through.

First Performance – On to the shave itself and painting the lather on the face was a breeze, it was thick, had a sheen to it and was on par with some of the best soaps I’ve used. First pass and I could tell what differentiates this soap from some of the top shelf offerings, the post shave slickness. There was none whatsoever like you’d expect from a Barrister & Mann or Zingari Man product, this however did not affect the quality of the shave. The cushion and the protection was very good and a two pass BBS saw me end the shave with no nicks, weepers or any skin irritation. This soap is nothing flash but it is a feel good reliable performer.

First Opinion – Catie’s Bubbles often fly under the radar as being a slightly above average shaving soap that is denied top shelf status due to the minimal ingredients and the price point. While I do favor soaps that have a good amount of post shave slickness, there are days when you just want a soap that is fun to use, works well and makes you feel alive at the end of the ritual. That would be the best way to describe Purple Grapefruit, it makes for one enjoyable shave at a very affordable price and this is one tub that will always stay in my den. My suggestion, "Those days when you’re under the pump or stressed out, reach for this one."

Cover Art Work – 5 / 10

Lather Quality – 8 / 10

Fragrance – 5 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 6 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 5 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 47 / 70

 

[Garry357]

CATIE'S BUBBLES - PURPLE GRAPEFRUIT (USA)

First Look - Popping bubble wrap, Carbon Dioxide bubbles in a champagne glass, blowing soap bubbles as a kid, who doesn’t like bubbles and the stress busting power they hold within them. The soap film wrapped around air kind pop up in our lives every day, so It wasn’t the cover art on the tub of Purple Grapefruit that drew my attention but the company name and the soap title itself. The tub cover features the core and the juice sacs of the Grapefruit in a psychedelic purple, it is pretty much what you see is what you get.

Side Note - I love the history behind the brand name and had to make a mention of it. Owner Chris Cullen has a son who is autistic and due to the family focusing much attention on him, his little daughter Catie felt neglected back then. What does a good father do ? Seeks her permission to use her name for his to be launched Artisan Soap brand in 2012. That labor of a Father’s love saw a hobby based side hustle transform into a well-loved global brand with Chris cruising through 14 years of being a successful Artisan soap maker, one that never shies away from helping other new artisans. That endearing story was good enough for me to pick up a tub anyway.

First Whiff – The ingredient profile with few ingredients including Stearic acid, water, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, shea butter, fragrance, sodium hydroxide, jojoba oil, sodium lactate, and glycerin had me convinced that the lather would be anything but thick and creamy, I couldn’t have been more wrong. I won’t call this soap thirsty but it does need a bit of hydration when bowl lathering. I worked up a basic lather with a my wet Yaqi Caramel Cats Whisker brush before adding a little water and swirling the brush again, four cycles of this and I had a thick dense lather that smelt good enough to eat. Have added an image of the Brush with the lather and it did look and smell like a grapefruit ice cream, that’s true when lathering the grapefruit scent just shines through.

First Lather – The ingredient profile with few ingredients including Stearic acid, water, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, shea butter, fragrance, sodium hydroxide, jojoba oil, sodium lactate, and glycerin had me convinced that the lather would be anything but thick and creamy, I couldn’t have been more wrong. I won’t call this soap thirsty but it does need a bit of hydration when bowl lathering. I worked up a basic lather with a my wet Yaqi Caramel Cat's Whisker synthetic brush before adding a little more water and swirling the brush again, four cycles of this and I had a thick dense lather that smelt good enough to eat. Have added an image of the Brush with the lather and it did look and smell like a grapefruit ice cream, that’s true when lathering the grapefruit scent just shines through.

First Performance – On to the shave itself and painting the lather on the face was a breeze, it was thick, had a sheen to it and was on par with some of the best soaps I’ve used. First pass and I could tell what differentiates this soap from some of the top shelf offerings, the post shave slickness. There was none whatsoever like you’d expect from a Barrister & Mann or Zingari Man product, this however did not affect the quality of the shave. The cushion and the protection was very good and a two pass BBS saw me end the shave with no nicks, weepers or any skin irritation. This soap is nothing flash but it is a feel good reliable performer.

First Opinion – Catie’s Bubbles often fly under the radar as being a slightly above average shaving soap that is denied top shelf status due to the minimal ingredients and the price point. While I do favor soaps that have a good amount of post shave slickness, there are days when you just want a soap that is fun to use, works well and makes you feel alive at the end of the ritual. That would be the best way to describe Purple Grapefruit, it makes for one enjoyable shave at a very affordable price and this is one tub that will always stay in my den. My suggestion, "Those days when you’re under the pump or stressed out, reach for this one."

Cover Art Work – 5 / 10

Lather Quality – 8 / 10

Fragrance – 5 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 6 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 5 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 47 / 70

Great review, enjoyed reading.

 

[Bladerunner7]

Great review, enjoyed reading.

Thanks Much Mate, really appreciate it.

 

[Errol]

CATIE'S BUBBLES - PURPLE GRAPEFRUIT (USA)

First Look - Popping bubble wrap, Carbon Dioxide bubbles in a champagne glass, blowing soap bubbles as a kid, who doesn’t like bubbles and the stress busting power they hold within them. The soap film wrapped around air kind pop up in our lives every day, so It wasn’t the cover art on the tub of Purple Grapefruit that drew my attention but the company name and the soap title itself. The tub cover features the core and the juice sacs of the Grapefruit in a psychedelic purple, it is pretty much what you see is what you get.

Side Note - I love the history behind the brand name and had to make a mention of it. Owner Chris Cullen has a son who is autistic and due to the family focusing much attention on him, his little daughter Catie felt neglected back then. What does a good father do ? Seeks her permission to use her name for his to be launched Artisan Soap brand in 2012. That labor of a Father’s love saw a hobby based side hustle transform into a well-loved global brand with Chris cruising through 14 years of being a successful Artisan soap maker, one that never shies away from helping other new artisans. That endearing story was good enough for me to pick up a tub anyway.

First Whiff – The ingredient profile with few ingredients including Stearic acid, water, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, shea butter, fragrance, sodium hydroxide, jojoba oil, sodium lactate, and glycerin had me convinced that the lather would be anything but thick and creamy, I couldn’t have been more wrong. I won’t call this soap thirsty but it does need a bit of hydration when bowl lathering. I worked up a basic lather with a my wet Yaqi Caramel Cats Whisker brush before adding a little water and swirling the brush again, four cycles of this and I had a thick dense lather that smelt good enough to eat. Have added an image of the Brush with the lather and it did look and smell like a grapefruit ice cream, that’s true when lathering the grapefruit scent just shines through.

First Lather – The ingredient profile with few ingredients including Stearic acid, water, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, shea butter, fragrance, sodium hydroxide, jojoba oil, sodium lactate, and glycerin had me convinced that the lather would be anything but thick and creamy, I couldn’t have been more wrong. I won’t call this soap thirsty but it does need a bit of hydration when bowl lathering. I worked up a basic lather with a my wet Yaqi Caramel Cat's Whisker synthetic brush before adding a little more water and swirling the brush again, four cycles of this and I had a thick dense lather that smelt good enough to eat. Have added an image of the Brush with the lather and it did look and smell like a grapefruit ice cream, that’s true when lathering the grapefruit scent just shines through.

First Performance – On to the shave itself and painting the lather on the face was a breeze, it was thick, had a sheen to it and was on par with some of the best soaps I’ve used. First pass and I could tell what differentiates this soap from some of the top shelf offerings, the post shave slickness. There was none whatsoever like you’d expect from a Barrister & Mann or Zingari Man product, this however did not affect the quality of the shave. The cushion and the protection was very good and a two pass BBS saw me end the shave with no nicks, weepers or any skin irritation. This soap is nothing flash but it is a feel good reliable performer.

First Opinion – Catie’s Bubbles often fly under the radar as being a slightly above average shaving soap that is denied top shelf status due to the minimal ingredients and the price point. While I do favor soaps that have a good amount of post shave slickness, there are days when you just want a soap that is fun to use, works well and makes you feel alive at the end of the ritual. That would be the best way to describe Purple Grapefruit, it makes for one enjoyable shave at a very affordable price and this is one tub that will always stay in my den. My suggestion, "Those days when you’re under the pump or stressed out, reach for this one."

Cover Art Work – 5 / 10

Lather Quality – 8 / 10

Fragrance – 5 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 6 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 5 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 47 / 70

A great read, interesting and informative.

 

[Bladerunner7]

BARRISTER AND MANN RESERVE – FERN (USA)

First Look - A crown worthy of a king, in this case the King of all Shaving Soaps, that was my first impression when I received my 4 oz tub of Barrister and Mann Reserve Fern. The Shiny metallic green symbol on the cover was simple in design yet eye catching. Every time I glance at the lid of my Fern tub, that Green symbol still draws me in with a sign of things to come…things that are all Green.

Side Note – My friend Lee who along with his lovely other half runs Charmwise (Malaysia), an online retail store that is a shavers dream come true in South East Asia recommended this soap to me. He is a fan of the Fern fragrance profile and the Reserve base, little did I know how important this recommendation would be to my shaving journey.

First Whiff – B&M Soaps have always had a medium scent strength for me with the few exceptions being Seville, Lavanille, Fougère Angelique and Fougère Gothique, the last one being one of my top favorite scents. It is true that I am a Fougère fan and Fern was an instant like for me. B&M owner Will Carius paid tribute to the long discontinued Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882) with the fragrance profile of this soap. While the B&M site focuses only on the oakmoss, lavender, and tonka bean notes, I get a lot more from the first inhalation, there are subtle notes of geranium, clary sage, heliotrope, orchid, and carnation that mingle with a gentle musk all of which dance above a strong bed of lavender, tonka bean and oakmoss. The best way to describe this scent would be a fresh green fragrance, think morning dew drops on blades of grass in a lush green meadow surrounded by moss laden oak tree trunks. I spent my childhood with the paddy fields in front of my house and a lush green meadow next to it. This soap takes me back to the days when I chased butterflies and friends in a game of tag back then.

First Lather – I have used The B&M Glissant, Excelsior, Soft Heart and Omnibus Base offerings in the past with Omnibus being the one that I liked best for its performance. So I scooped half a teaspoon of the soap into my Oaken Lab ceramic lather bowl and started with a gentle swirl of my Zenith unbleached boar brush working up a thick pasty lather for 20 seconds, a few drops of water and another 20 seconds followed with the lather building up steadily. The Reserve base like the Omnibus one is fairly thirsty and after two more cycles of adding water and boar brush magic I had a thick and dense lather that filled the bowl. When I say dense in this case it was dense to the maximum. The ingredients in this tallow based product may be less than the Omnibus base but when they come together it is sheer magic.

First Performance – That fragrance was so invigorating and refreshing when I painted the lather onto my face that I wanted to keep at it for a while but I had to remind myself that it was time to test the soap’s performance. First stroke of the razor and it just glided down my cheeks like cold steel on a slippery slope, I ran my fingers over the shaved area and it was surreal, there was this slickness like a well moisturized face would have without a trace of oiliness or any grease. The next half pass was a breeze as well and even though I was using an Ikon Tek, I could barely feel the blade. The cushion, protection, and slickness of this soap was unreal and even more than that was the post shave feel. I rinsed, used the alum block and that was it. There was no need for a post shave lotion or balm. My skin felt well hydrated, nourished and soft as ever for the rest of the day. It was so good that I kept running my hands over my cheeks every fifteen minutes.

First Opinion – Barrister Reserve Fern as you can tell by now is my number one shaving Soap with the Base being the best I have ever used and way ahead of the Omnibus version. The Fragrance profile is classy and not overwhelming but just right. Sadly, the Reserve base is no longer available with most retailers and if you find a tub of it regardless of the scent, pick it up blindly. Charmwise (Malaysia) had a few tubs left when I last spoke to Lee and once these run out, the Reserve base will be missed dearly.

Cover Art Work – 7 / 10

Lather Quality – 10 / 10

Fragrance – 8 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 10 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 65 / 70

 

[LesC]

BARRISTER AND MANN RESERVE – FERN (USA)

First Look - A crown worthy of a king, in this case the King of all Shaving Soaps, that was my first impression when I received my 4 oz tub of Barrister and Mann Reserve Fern. The Shiny metallic green symbol on the cover was simple in design yet eye catching. Every time I glance at the lid of my Fern tub, that Green symbol still draws me in with a sign of things to come…things that are all Green.

Side Note – My friend Lee who along with his lovely other half runs Charmwise (Malaysia), an online retail store that is a shavers dream come true in South East Asia recommended this soap to me. He is a fan of the Fern fragrance profile and the Reserve base, little did I know how important this recommendation would be to my shaving journey.

First Whiff – B&M Soaps have always had a medium scent strength for me with the few exceptions being Seville, Lavanille, Fougère Angelique and Fougère Gothique, the last one being one of my top favorite scents. It is true that I am a Fougère fan and Fern was an instant like for me. B&M owner Will Carius paid tribute to the long discontinued Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882) with the fragrance profile of this soap. While the B&M site focuses only on the oakmoss, lavender, and tonka bean notes, I get a lot more from the first inhalation, there are subtle notes of geranium, clary sage, heliotrope, orchid, and carnation that mingle with a gentle musk all of which dance above a strong bed of lavender, tonka bean and oakmoss. The best way to describe this scent would be a fresh green fragrance, think morning dew drops on blades of grass in a lush green meadow surrounded by moss laden oak tree trunks. I spent my childhood with the paddy fields in front of my house and a lush green meadow next to it. This soap takes me back to the days when I chased butterflies and friends in a game of tag back then.

First Lather – I have used The B&M Glissant, Excelsior, Soft Heart and Omnibus Base offerings in the past with Omnibus being the one that I liked best for its performance. So I scooped half a teaspoon of the soap into my Oaken Lab ceramic lather bowl and started with a gentle swirl of my Zenith unbleached boar brush working up a thick pasty lather for 20 seconds, a few drops of water and another 20 seconds followed with the lather building up steadily. The Reserve base like the Omnibus one is fairly thirsty and after two more cycles of adding water and boar brush magic I had a thick and dense lather that filled the bowl. When I say dense in this case it was dense to the maximum. The ingredients in this tallow based product may be less than the Omnibus base but when they come together it is sheer magic.

First Performance – That fragrance was so invigorating and refreshing when I painted the lather onto my face that I wanted to keep at it for a while but I had to remind myself that it was time to test the soap’s performance. First stroke of the razor and it just glided down my cheeks like cold steel on a slippery slope, I ran my fingers over the shaved area and it was surreal, there was this slickness like a well moisturized face would have without a trace of oiliness or any grease. The next half pass was a breeze as well and even though I was using an Ikon Tek, I could barely feel the blade. The cushion, protection, and slickness of this soap was unreal and even more than that was the post shave feel. I rinsed, used the alum block and that was it. There was no need for a post shave lotion or balm. My skin felt well hydrated, nourished and soft as ever for the rest of the day. It was so good that I kept running my hands over my cheeks every fifteen minutes.

First Opinion – Barrister Reserve Fern as you can tell by now is my number one shaving Soap with the Base being the best I have ever used and way ahead of the Omnibus version. The Fragrance profile is classy and not overwhelming but just right. Sadly, the Reserve base is no longer available with most retailers and if you find a tub of it regardless of the scent, pick it up blindly. Charmwise (Malaysia) had a few tubs left when I last spoke to Lee and once these run out, the Reserve base will be missed dearly.

Cover Art Work – 7 / 10

Lather Quality – 10 / 10

Fragrance – 8 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 10 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 65 / 70

Great review and I agree , I have the Reserve Spice and totally prefer it over the Spice Omnibus for the slickness that I like for my Kamisori/s, though Omnibus more than suitable for DE, SE etc IMHO.

 

[Bladerunner7]

Great review and I agree , I have the Reserve Spice and totally prefer it over the Spice Omnibus for the slickness that I like for my Kamisori/s, though Omnibus more than suitable for DE, SE etc IMHO.

My thoughts on the Spice too Les. This soap base was love at first shave for me. Thanks for the kind words mate.

 

[Errol]

BARRISTER AND MANN RESERVE – FERN (USA)

First Look - A crown worthy of a king, in this case the King of all Shaving Soaps, that was my first impression when I received my 4 oz tub of Barrister and Mann Reserve Fern. The Shiny metallic green symbol on the cover was simple in design yet eye catching. Every time I glance at the lid of my Fern tub, that Green symbol still draws me in with a sign of things to come…things that are all Green.

Side Note – My friend Lee who along with his lovely other half runs Charmwise (Malaysia), an online retail store that is a shavers dream come true in South East Asia recommended this soap to me. He is a fan of the Fern fragrance profile and the Reserve base, little did I know how important this recommendation would be to my shaving journey.

First Whiff – B&M Soaps have always had a medium scent strength for me with the few exceptions being Seville, Lavanille, Fougère Angelique and Fougère Gothique, the last one being one of my top favorite scents. It is true that I am a Fougère fan and Fern was an instant like for me. B&M owner Will Carius paid tribute to the long discontinued Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882) with the fragrance profile of this soap. While the B&M site focuses only on the oakmoss, lavender, and tonka bean notes, I get a lot more from the first inhalation, there are subtle notes of geranium, clary sage, heliotrope, orchid, and carnation that mingle with a gentle musk all of which dance above a strong bed of lavender, tonka bean and oakmoss. The best way to describe this scent would be a fresh green fragrance, think morning dew drops on blades of grass in a lush green meadow surrounded by moss laden oak tree trunks. I spent my childhood with the paddy fields in front of my house and a lush green meadow next to it. This soap takes me back to the days when I chased butterflies and friends in a game of tag back then.

First Lather – I have used The B&M Glissant, Excelsior, Soft Heart and Omnibus Base offerings in the past with Omnibus being the one that I liked best for its performance. So I scooped half a teaspoon of the soap into my Oaken Lab ceramic lather bowl and started with a gentle swirl of my Zenith unbleached boar brush working up a thick pasty lather for 20 seconds, a few drops of water and another 20 seconds followed with the lather building up steadily. The Reserve base like the Omnibus one is fairly thirsty and after two more cycles of adding water and boar brush magic I had a thick and dense lather that filled the bowl. When I say dense in this case it was dense to the maximum. The ingredients in this tallow based product may be less than the Omnibus base but when they come together it is sheer magic.

First Performance – That fragrance was so invigorating and refreshing when I painted the lather onto my face that I wanted to keep at it for a while but I had to remind myself that it was time to test the soap’s performance. First stroke of the razor and it just glided down my cheeks like cold steel on a slippery slope, I ran my fingers over the shaved area and it was surreal, there was this slickness like a well moisturized face would have without a trace of oiliness or any grease. The next half pass was a breeze as well and even though I was using an Ikon Tek, I could barely feel the blade. The cushion, protection, and slickness of this soap was unreal and even more than that was the post shave feel. I rinsed, used the alum block and that was it. There was no need for a post shave lotion or balm. My skin felt well hydrated, nourished and soft as ever for the rest of the day. It was so good that I kept running my hands over my cheeks every fifteen minutes.

First Opinion – Barrister Reserve Fern as you can tell by now is my number one shaving Soap with the Base being the best I have ever used and way ahead of the Omnibus version. The Fragrance profile is classy and not overwhelming but just right. Sadly, the Reserve base is no longer available with most retailers and if you find a tub of it regardless of the scent, pick it up blindly. Charmwise (Malaysia) had a few tubs left when I last spoke to Lee and once these run out, the Reserve base will be missed dearly.

Cover Art Work – 7 / 10

Lather Quality – 10 / 10

Fragrance – 8 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 10 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 10 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 65 / 70

One to be on the look out for. Thanks @Bladerunner7

 

[Bladerunner7]

ZINGARI MAN - NO.1 (USA)

First Look - What do you get when the prettiest Artisan Shaving Soap maker releases a product with one of the prettiest tub covers ? the answer would be Zingari Man No.1. The art work on the fully black container is a marriage of simplicity and complexity. The name of the soap dominates the space surrounded by metallic Roses and leaves. Turn the container around to change the angle of light and the holographic effect is mesmerizing. The seven colors of the spectrum jump out at you individually with every rotation of the tub while sometimes converging into a rainbow like effect. The artwork is top notch and classy.

Side note - Zingari Man owner Heather Melton is a certified Cosmetic formulator through the Handcrafted Soap & Cosmetic Guild and has gained a huge reputation for creating shaving soaps, soap bars, beard balms, post shave products and everything else that is designed to nurture the skin. On the flip side, the fragrance strength of her products has always been mid- level with pleasant scents. Aware that her skill purely lies in crafting products that are great skin food, she turned to collaborations or rather leaving the scent profile to the experts to change things around a bit. This has been her trump card.

First Whiff –The nose behind No.1 is French perfumer Yann Derriennic of Byron Parfums and the scent profile is described as Turkish Rose and Vanilla for the top notes, Oud and Bulgarian Rose for the heart all propped up by sandalwood, patchouli and Amber. On opening the container, I get all those notes mentioned in the description. The Turkish and Bulgarian rose hit me first in a bold manner with the Vanilla and Oud coming through in gentle waves, as the scent settles down, the sandalwood, patchouli and amber shine but play second fiddle to the Rose almost like a mark of respect. This is not a floral smelling soap but a masculine rose offering backed by gentle woody notes. The best way to describe it would be, think of a walk in the woods on a rainy day when you come across a log of wood with a Fresh rose, stem, leaves et al lying on top of it. The closer you get to it the more does the projection of its floral fragrance hit you till you are standing face to face with it and realize that underneath that refreshing and feel good scent likes a calming woody undertone. This was a ten on ten for me.

First Lather –Heather’s well-loved “SEGO” base has a huge fan following and with good reason. The base includes Stearic acid, Vegetable Glycerin, Beef tallow, Shea butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor oil, Palm oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Fragrance, Jojoba oil, Oat bran oil, Shea butter (and) Glyceral Rosinate (and) Olive oil unsaponifiables, Coconut oil, Daikon Seed extract, Goat milk, Coconut milk and Sodium lactate. Just take the dominant four ingredients at the top and it promises to deliver a supreme lather, so using a half teaspoon of the soap I started working at it using my damp Razorock Big Bruce brush and the Oaken Lab ceramic bowl. Thirty seconds in and I had a pasty lather, a few drops of water and another twenty seconds saw the lather continue to grow but it was dense, so I set it aside for a minute. On returning to the bowl I added a few more drops of water and letting it sit untouched for a minute was the key here, as the lather continued to grow, the fragrance strength increased as well and soon I had a fluffy yet dense lather. Like most Zingari soaps, the lather maintains its thick and smooth appearance from the first few swirls of the brush in the bowl till the final one.

First Performance – When painting the first strokes on my face that scent reminded me of getting ready for a friend’s wedding or a special occasion marking a landmark event for a family member or a friend. This is truly like an Eau De Parfum and not an EDT. First pass with my Stando Chors and I was amazed at how good my face felt. Running my fingers over my cheek and I could feel the slickness. A quick rinse with cold water was followed by the realization that the cushion and protection were so good that I forgot I was shaving. The Stndo Chors is one of my favourite razors and when paired with a top shelf soap like this, it was a memorable shave. Ran my palms all over my cheeks and neck area and it was smooth with my fingers literally gliding over the skin’s surface.

First Opinion – Zingari Man No.1 is one of my top three soaps of all time. It is truly top shelf and spells “CLASS” in terms of presentation and performance. Paired with the matching zero alcohol AS splash, it is a winner all the way. This is a soap I use sparingly and save for special occasions. I had to drop the points on value mainly due to the cost of it which is more than the other Zingari man offerings but to be fair it is a 5 Oz pour like all other shaving soap products by the brand. If I ran out of it, I would be sure to purchase another two tubs of it, No.1 is that good. To me, Heather Melton is the Rose of the Artisan Shaving Soap manufacturers and No.1 is the Rose in her flowerbed. Grab this one while it is still available.

Cover Art Work – 10 / 10

Lather Quality – 9 / 10

Fragrance – 10 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 9 / 10

Slickness – 8 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 9 / 10

Value – 8 / 10

Total Point Score – 63 / 70

 

[Vittoria]

CATIE'S BUBBLES - PURPLE GRAPEFRUIT (USA)

First Look - Popping bubble wrap, Carbon Dioxide bubbles in a champagne glass, blowing soap bubbles as a kid, who doesn’t like bubbles and the stress busting power they hold within them. The soap film wrapped around air kind pop up in our lives every day, so It wasn’t the cover art on the tub of Purple Grapefruit that drew my attention but the company name and the soap title itself. The tub cover features the core and the juice sacs of the Grapefruit in a psychedelic purple, it is pretty much what you see is what you get.

Side Note - I love the history behind the brand name and had to make a mention of it. Owner Chris Cullen has a son who is autistic and due to the family focusing much attention on him, his little daughter Catie felt neglected back then. What does a good father do ? Seeks her permission to use her name for his to be launched Artisan Soap brand in 2012. That labor of a Father’s love saw a hobby based side hustle transform into a well-loved global brand with Chris cruising through 14 years of being a successful Artisan soap maker, one that never shies away from helping other new artisans. That endearing story was good enough for me to pick up a tub anyway.

First Whiff – The ingredient profile with few ingredients including Stearic acid, water, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, shea butter, fragrance, sodium hydroxide, jojoba oil, sodium lactate, and glycerin had me convinced that the lather would be anything but thick and creamy, I couldn’t have been more wrong. I won’t call this soap thirsty but it does need a bit of hydration when bowl lathering. I worked up a basic lather with a my wet Yaqi Caramel Cats Whisker brush before adding a little water and swirling the brush again, four cycles of this and I had a thick dense lather that smelt good enough to eat. Have added an image of the Brush with the lather and it did look and smell like a grapefruit ice cream, that’s true when lathering the grapefruit scent just shines through.

First Lather – The ingredient profile with few ingredients including Stearic acid, water, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, shea butter, fragrance, sodium hydroxide, jojoba oil, sodium lactate, and glycerin had me convinced that the lather would be anything but thick and creamy, I couldn’t have been more wrong. I won’t call this soap thirsty but it does need a bit of hydration when bowl lathering. I worked up a basic lather with a my wet Yaqi Caramel Cat's Whisker synthetic brush before adding a little more water and swirling the brush again, four cycles of this and I had a thick dense lather that smelt good enough to eat. Have added an image of the Brush with the lather and it did look and smell like a grapefruit ice cream, that’s true when lathering the grapefruit scent just shines through.

First Performance – On to the shave itself and painting the lather on the face was a breeze, it was thick, had a sheen to it and was on par with some of the best soaps I’ve used. First pass and I could tell what differentiates this soap from some of the top shelf offerings, the post shave slickness. There was none whatsoever like you’d expect from a Barrister & Mann or Zingari Man product, this however did not affect the quality of the shave. The cushion and the protection was very good and a two pass BBS saw me end the shave with no nicks, weepers or any skin irritation. This soap is nothing flash but it is a feel good reliable performer.

First Opinion – Catie’s Bubbles often fly under the radar as being a slightly above average shaving soap that is denied top shelf status due to the minimal ingredients and the price point. While I do favor soaps that have a good amount of post shave slickness, there are days when you just want a soap that is fun to use, works well and makes you feel alive at the end of the ritual. That would be the best way to describe Purple Grapefruit, it makes for one enjoyable shave at a very affordable price and this is one tub that will always stay in my den. My suggestion, "Those days when you’re under the pump or stressed out, reach for this one."

Cover Art Work – 5 / 10

Lather Quality – 8 / 10

Fragrance – 5 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 6 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 5 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 47 / 70

Great review Bladerunner7
I love this soap (great looking brush to)
Cheers

 

[Bladerunner7]

@Vittoria thanks Mate..much appreciated