WEEKLY SHAVING SOAP REVIEW

[Bladerunner7]

PARKER - SANDALWOOD & SHEA BUTTER SHAVING SOAP​

First Look - Parker Safety Razor branding, key ingredients of the soap and the weight of the product, that pretty much describes the cover of teh soap container. I opted for the 1.76 ounce travel version which came in a small tub so that it would resemble a regular shaving soap container. In my opinion, Parker may have shed the flashy presentation to keep the price point of the soap fairly low but I think some eye catching artwork on the label would do wonders to make it more attractive

Side note – The Parker Shaving Company of India was the brainchild of Jagdish Grover and the aim was to provide wet shavers with gear that was affordable without comprising on performance or quality. For 32 years Parker gained a lot of popularity for their high quality hand assembled brass framed razors. In 2005 Jagdish Grover’s son Deepak took the brand to foreign shores with budget friendly safety razors and shavettes, the latter of which are a staple in barbershops across the globe now. Today the company is a one stop brand for shaving razors, brushes, accessories and even a signature shaving soap. Fifty years onward and Parker Shaving remains one of the most popular brands among newbies and seasoned wet shavers worldwide with a product from the Grover family finding a place in most dens.

First Whiff – Parker’s signature soap has a light woody fragrance that is dominated by sandalwood. At first whiff I get that sandalwood opening which is intense yet powdery. A second whiff and I pick up another woody note that is very subtle but seems to give the main fragrance more character. I would later discover that the other woody note was actually Cedar. The sandalwood essential oil used in the soap comes from the Mysore in the South Of India and is highly regarded in the fragrance, cosmetic and herbal remedy circles. The fragrance strength of the soap is medium and most sandalwood lovers would be pleased with it.

First Lather – Being a glycerine based non tallow soap, I decided to brush load this one. I soaked my Royal Forest travel synthetic brush for a few minutes before squeezing out the water from the fibers while holding the brush upside down. Without shaking the remaining water out, I proceeded to load the soap straight out of the small tub for thirty seconds before painting the strokes of soap on my cheeks. I added a few drops of water to the synthetic knot and kept working at the soap on my face, soon I had an average foamy yet disappointing lather. I wasn’t ready to give up on the soap and I added a few more drops of water to the knot before splaying it on my neck and cheeks, that’s when it dawned on me that this is a thirsty soap and needs a good bit of hydration. The lather was starting to get a bit more dense so I proceeded to add a few more drops of water and kept working at the lather on my face with circular movements of the brush, two or three minutes later I was rewarded with a rich and creamy lather. This is one thirsty soap and a little bit of patience and elbow grease is needed to reap its maximum benefits.

First Performance – Having succeeded in creating a dense and creamy lather, it was time to test the performance of the soap. Using My Greencult 2.0 with a level 3 plate I finished with a two pass BBS. While the cushion and protection of the soap were just above average, it was the residual slickness that stood out for me. I had to rinse the soap off my fingers a few times during the shave to avoid any shaving related accidents due to the razor slipping out of my hand. I did noticed that the fragrance strength had dropped a bit while lathering up as compared to what I smelled off the puck. The slickness of the soap did surprise me and when I looked at the ingredients, it all made perfect sense. The Parker sandalwood Soap is based on an old school non tallow recipe that contains Coconut Oil, Rice Bran Oil, Glycerine, Soy Oil, Olive Oil, cacao seed Butter, Ethiopian Shea Butter, Kokum Butter, Aloe Vera Extract., Kaolin Clay, Sesame Seed Oil, Wheatgerm Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Bees wax, Grapeseed Oil, Comfrey Extract, Licorice Extract, Ashwagandha Extract, Xylitol, Vitmin E, Cedarwood oil, Sandalwood Oil and Turmeric oil. The healthy dose of oils coupled with the Ethiopian Shea butter can be credited for this product’s excellent residual slickness and also post shave feel. Ethiopian Shea butter has higher oleic acid content, approximately 25 percent or more as compared to its rivals, it is almost lotion like and silky in texture offering excllent skinprotection, hydration and healing.. Straight razor enthusiasts would love this soap.

First Opinion – The humble Parker Sandalwood shaving soap may fall short in its fragrance strength and presentation but like its hardware siblings, punches way above its price point. This is a no nonsense shaving soap that does the job it is meant to and does it well. Recommended for every shaving den and specially for Straight razor enthusiasts.

Cover Art Work – 5 / 10

Lather Quality – 7 / 10

Fragrance – 6 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 7 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 7 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 52 / 70

Verdict – “Never judge a shaving soap by its cover.”

Availability – www.therazorcompany.com, https://www.safetyrazors.com.au and most online shaving gear retailers.

 

[SpeedyPC]

PARKER - SANDALWOOD & SHEA BUTTER SHAVING SOAP​

First Look - Parker Safety Razor branding, key ingredients of the soap and the weight of the product, that pretty much describes the cover of teh soap container. I opted for the 1.76 ounce travel version which came in a small tub so that it would resemble a regular shaving soap container. In my opinion, Parker may have shed the flashy presentation to keep the price point of the soap fairly low but I think some eye catching artwork on the label would do wonders to make it more attractive

Side note – The Parker Shaving Company of India was the brainchild of Jagdish Grover and the aim was to provide wet shavers with gear that was affordable without comprising on performance or quality. For 32 years Parker gained a lot of popularity for their high quality hand assembled brass framed razors. In 2005 Jagdish Grover’s son Deepak took the brand to foreign shores with budget friendly safety razors and shavettes, the latter of which are a staple in barbershops across the globe now. Today the company is a one stop brand for shaving razors, brushes, accessories and even a signature shaving soap. Fifty years onward and Parker Shaving remains one of the most popular brands among newbies and seasoned wet shavers worldwide with a product from the Grover family finding a place in most dens.

First Whiff – Parker’s signature soap has a light woody fragrance that is dominated by sandalwood. At first whiff I get that sandalwood opening which is intense yet powdery. A second whiff and I pick up another woody note that is very subtle but seems to give the main fragrance more character. I would later discover that the other woody note was actually Cedar. The sandalwood essential oil used in the soap comes from the Mysore in the South Of India and is highly regarded in the fragrance, cosmetic and herbal remedy circles. The fragrance strength of the soap is medium and most sandalwood lovers would be pleased with it.

First Lather – Being a glycerine based non tallow soap, I decided to brush load this one. I soaked my Royal Forest travel synthetic brush for a few minutes before squeezing out the water from the fibers while holding the brush upside down. Without shaking the remaining water out, I proceeded to load the soap straight out of the small tub for thirty seconds before painting the strokes of soap on my cheeks. I added a few drops of water to the synthetic knot and kept working at the soap on my face, soon I had an average foamy yet disappointing lather. I wasn’t ready to give up on the soap and I added a few more drops of water to the knot before splaying it on my neck and cheeks, that’s when it dawned on me that this is a thirsty soap and needs a good bit of hydration. The lather was starting to get a bit more dense so I proceeded to add a few more drops of water and kept working at the lather on my face with circular movements of the brush, two or three minutes later I was rewarded with a rich and creamy lather. This is one thirsty soap and a little bit of patience and elbow grease is needed to reap its maximum benefits.

First Performance – Having succeeded in creating a dense and creamy lather, it was time to test the performance of the soap. Using My Greencult 2.0 with a level 3 plate I finished with a two pass BBS. While the cushion and protection of the soap were just above average, it was the residual slickness that stood out for me. I had to rinse the soap off my fingers a few times during the shave to avoid any shaving related accidents due to the razor slipping out of my hand. I did noticed that the fragrance strength had dropped a bit while lathering up as compared to what I smelled off the puck. The slickness of the soap did surprise me and when I looked at the ingredients, it all made perfect sense. The Parker sandalwood Soap is based on an old school non tallow recipe that contains Coconut Oil, Rice Bran Oil, Glycerine, Soy Oil, Olive Oil, cacao seed Butter, Ethiopian Shea Butter, Kokum Butter, Aloe Vera Extract., Kaolin Clay, Sesame Seed Oil, Wheatgerm Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Bees wax, Grapeseed Oil, Comfrey Extract, Licorice Extract, Ashwagandha Extract, Xylitol, Vitmin E, Cedarwood oil, Sandalwood Oil and Turmeric oil. The healthy dose of oils coupled with the Ethiopian Shea butter can be credited for this product’s excellent residual slickness and also post shave feel. Ethiopian Shea butter has higher oleic acid content, approximately 25 percent or more as compared to its rivals, it is almost lotion like and silky in texture offering excllent skinprotection, hydration and healing.. Straight razor enthusiasts would love this soap.

First Opinion – The humble Parker Sandalwood shaving soap may fall short in its fragrance strength and presentation but like its hardware siblings, punches way above its price point. This is a no nonsense shaving soap that does the job it is meant to and does it well. Recommended for every shaving den and specially for Straight razor enthusiasts.

Cover Art Work – 5 / 10

Lather Quality – 7 / 10

Fragrance – 6 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 7 / 10

Slickness – 10 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 7 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 52 / 70

Verdict – “Never judge a shaving soap by its cover.”

Availability – www.therazorcompany.com, https://www.safetyrazors.com.au and most online shaving gear retailers.

 

[Bladerunner7]

AERMEDA LUXURY SHAVING SOAP - LAVENDER, ROSEMARY & YLANG YLANG​

First Look - A brushed stainless steel container with the brand name laser engraved on the cover and the ingredients on a label at the bottom., simplicity at its best and totally utilitarian. The little tub can be used as a smaller shaving bowl as intended by the artisan or it can be sued to store jewellery, edible nuts and anything one wants to fit into it once the soap is long gone. To me this soap container adds top value to the presentation.

Side note – Dr. Jules Lawrence or Julie tis the Artisan behind Aermeda. A respected health practitioner and academic in Paediatrics in the University of Otago medical school, New Zealand, she embarked on a 5 month solo hike spanning 4250km from Mexico to Canada along the Pacific Crest Trail in 2015. The challenges of the trail with the peace and solitude she found on the journey saw the seeds of a new venture planted in her mind. Bidding a farewell to the medical world and after four years of experimentation and rigorous testing of grooming products, Aermeda was born as a company focused on skin nourishment, repair an rejuvenation. The inclusion of goat’s milk from her own farm was due to the skin benefiting properties of it and keeping in mind the fact that a shaver's kin stays in contact with the lather for multiple passes. Being a vegetarian, soy wax was the natural choice for Dr. Jules. Using the highest quality ingredients and letting nature lend a helping hand has been her winning formula.

First Whiff – Taking the top off the container was good enough for the soap’s main three fragrance notes to hit me smack dab in the middle of my nose. I held the soap closer for a long first whiff and the relaxing lavender, the calming Ylang Ylang and the soothing Rosemary had me hooked. There are no layers in the fragrance profile of this soap but just a perfect blend of three essential oils as described by the artisan. A second whiff and I was transported to a place surrounded by fresh Lavender, Rosemary and Ylang Ylang, that have yet to be picked and converted into essential oils. This soap is probably one of the purest and best smelling shaving soap fragrances my nose has had the joy of sniffing.

First Lather – My experience with organic soaps that lack tallow or a complex mix of vegan butters has always been a disaster that has left me with a runny lather or an airy one that breaks down before I have finished my first pass. I honestly wasn’t expecting this soap’s lather to bowl me over but was game to give it a shot. I added a teaspoon of soap to my HC & Co stainless steel lather bowl with two tablespoons of water, letting the soap bloom for two minutes. That was followed by two minutes of gentle brush rotations with my Semogue Boar 1470, a fairly dense lather had started to develop. I added another tablespoon of water and let the lather hydrate for a bit. Returning to the bowl, I proceeded with another two minutes of working the lather, soon I was rewarded with a dense and creamy result, one on par with some of the elite shaving soap bases I’ve used.

First Performance – The soap’s ingredients are Saponified Soybean, Kokum butter, Coconut oil, Cocoa butter, Castor oil, Goats milk, Otago rain water, Jojoba oil, Potassium hydroxide, Sodium hydroxide, Essential oils of Rosemary, Lavender, Ylang Ylang with Tussah silk. While the vegan butters seemed promising, the presence of Soy wax over tallow had my cynical mind taking over once again. I proceeded with the first lather application and the soap felt good on my skin, it was soothing and comforting in a way. Using my Blackland Dart with a Kai stainless steel blade, I had an excellent first pass. During the second pass I noticed that the fragrance strength of the soap remained the same as that off the puck. I finished with a BBS, the soap providing excellent cushion, protection and glide for the razor. I was left gob smacked at the end of the shave, pondering on how a soap with minimal ingredients performed like a top tier product with an unusual squeaky clean and crisp post shave feel.

First Opinion – There are moments when all your knowledge about soaps and fragrances flies out the window, leaving you humbled in a delightful manner. This was one of those moments for me. This is one of the best shaving soap’s I have ever used that comes with a feel good factor, It left me relaxed and happy after the shave. Dr. Jules nailed this one perfectly and I can’t wait to see her experiment with a new base in the future. Many thanks to my mate @Blackie for recommending Aermeda Shaving soaps to me.


Cover Art Work & Presentation – 8 / 10

Lather Quality – 8 / 10

Fragrance – 10 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 9 / 10

Slickness – 8 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 9 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 62 / 70

Verdict – Every Den Needs one, a permanent in mine for sure from now on.

Availability – https://www.aermeda.com/shaving-shop

 

[Bladerunner7]

Gentlemen, its good to be back and sometimes we all need that time to heal from injury, medical procedures and stuff that occupies our minds. I've had a good long break and the opportunity to try out a ton of different shaving soaps and razors too. The Shaving journey keeps us grounded , bus and happy through trial, experimentation and purchases too. I have a lot of shaving soap stories to tell which have been accumulated over these last few months and am hoping that I can keep them coming on a weekly basis. Happy Shaves Ya all.

 

[silverlifter]

Great to see you back in the game, Bladey! Although the last thing I need is more soap, but after this review of a local product, I may have no choice...

 

[Bladerunner7]

Great to see you back in the game, Bladey! Although the last thing I need is more soap, but after this review of a local product, I may have no choice...

Thanks for the kind words mate. Its one awesome soap my friend and uniquely different from all the other soaps I've used before. My search for an Shaving soap Artisan from New Zealand was successful with our good buddy @Blackie giving me his feedback on it. I'm definitely getting a few in different fragrance blends. Right in your backyard, you have to try it out.

 

[alfredus]

Great to have you and your reviews back @Bladerunner7

 

[Bladerunner7]

Great to have you and your reviews back @Bladerunner7

Thanks much mate. Feels good to be back.

 

[ColorMug]

Gentlemen, its good to be back and sometimes we all need that time to heal from injury, medical procedures and stuff that occupies our minds. I've had a good long break and the opportunity to try out a ton of different shaving soaps and razors too. The Shaving journey keeps us grounded , bus and happy through trial, experimentation and purchases too. I have a lot of shaving soap stories to tell which have been accumulated over these last few months and am hoping that I can keep them coming on a weekly basis. Happy Shaves Ya all.

Glad to have you back

 

[Bladerunner7]

Glad to have you back

Thanks Buddy.

 

[Blackie]

Yes, it's great that you are back @Bladerunner7 .
I'm on the last dregs of my first Aermeda puck...but have more sitting waiting. I too am a happy user.
I might need to buy more now just in case you Aussies snap it all up.

 

[Bladerunner7]

@Blackie , thanks very much mate. the Aermeda Goat's Milk Shaving soap is truly special.

 

[Bladerunner7]

MARTIN DE CANDRE - ROSE SHAVING SOAP (TRAVEL EDITION)​

First Look - A cardboard box with a travel sized solid pet jar nestled inside it and a pamphlet containing instructions on how to use the soap. This packaging reminds me that I’m holding something special in my hands. The pet jar comes across as glass and has some heft to it. The labels on the cover and side feature the brand logo, soap title and the colors of the French flag. This is very classy packaging and a sure winner for me.

Side Note – In the early 1970s, Rosine and Dominique Dauge of France while seeking an alternative to traditional agriculture, learned soapmaking under the tutelage of chemist André Chapuis. In 1974 they set up their company at Domaine de Mestré in the Loire Valley. Initially called "Martin de Candes" after the village of Candes-Saint-Martin, it was renamed "Martin de Candre" to distinguish itself. A gifted perfumer and soap maker Rosine’s use of high quality ingredients and an age old method of saponification saw the brand develop a cult following. In the 1980s with an aim to avoiding wastage of left over soap bits, MDC hit on a formula to make shaving soaps with the first one launched in 1989. Since then the formula has remain unchanged with only different fragrances on offer now. Daughter Hélène Dauge-Strodijk took over the reins of the company in the early 2000s before passing on the responsibility to son Augustin Strodijk in 2016, the same year that MDC Rose made it’s first appearance.

First Whiff – At first whiff, the fresh smell of roses hits my nose, this is a fresh and invigorating perfume. I take a second long whiff of the soap and I detect a few other players in there, a light woody presence with another light floral and a sweet vegetal note. I go back to check the fragrance profile of the soap and discover that pure rose essential oil is the heart of the fragrance, it doesn’t stop there with Bourbon Geranium, Ho Wood, Ylang Ylang and Benzoin surrounding the main note. The Bourbon geranium lends a herbaceous note, the Ho wood a woody presence and the Ylang Ylang adds that sweet leaf touch but it is the Benzoin at the base that brings it all together in a scent that is original and very different from other Rose focused shaving soaps. While Soap Commander’s 'Love' remains my best smelling Rose shaving soap, MDC Rose is definitely my number two. The scent strength is medium to high and akin to fresh roses placed in a glass vase with water.

First Lather – The soap has a firm croap like consistency yet when I scoop out a teaspoon it comes across as waxy soft. Smearing the soap at the bottom of my value dollar SS bowl, I add two table spoons of warm water and let it bloom for three minutes. I follow that with two minutes of gentle brush rotations clockwise and anti-clockwise, only to be disappointed with an airy and foamy lather. So I add a tablespoon more of warm water, swirl the brush a bit in the bowl and then let it rest for two more minutes. Returning back to the brush swirling, a dense lather starts to take shape, the more I swirl it around, the thicker it gets. Deciding to push my luck, I add a few more drops of water and another minute of brush rotations, only to be surprised by a creamy and dense lather in the bowl. MDC soaps have a learning curve and with patience, repeated use and good hydration, one can dial in the slickness, thickness and density of the lather.

First Performance – Following that excellent fragrance and quality lather, it was time to for the main test or the performance of MDC Rose. Using A Razorock Daily Plus Open Comb razor with a Feather, I took down five days of stubble in two passes. I paused to check the residual slickness after the first pass and it was really good. The cushion and protection was good enough to provide a comfortable and irritation free shave as well. So, how can a shaving soap with minimal ingredients as in Stearic Acid, Coconut Oil, Aqua, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Sodium Chloride, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool and Parfum (a blend of essential oils) deliver in spades ? The secret lies in the saponification and maturation of the soap. The brand uses the Marseille process of "hot pounding" to cook and combine all the ingredients before using a simple press to give the product its shape and the logo. The soap is then left to dry in wooden containers for at least 8 months. The wood absorbs moisture, provides a regular and constant drying to finish the soap while making it more durable. No Triple or French milling is used in the manufacturing process.

First Opinion – I could have opted for the big wooden bowl, the 200g jar or even the butter dish with the soap but I’m glad that I wisely chose the 50 gram travel jar. A little goes a long way and with a teaspoon I had enough for four more passes. This is a soap I would reach for on hot summer days or when I just need a post shave that leaves my skin feeling clean and not necessarily moisturized. Every den needs one, seasoned wet shavers and straight razor enthusiasts know that well.


Cover Art Work & Presentation – 8 / 10

Lather Quality – 9 / 10

Fragrance – 8 / 10

Cushion & Protection – 8 / 10

Slickness – 9 / 10

Post Shave Feel – 8 / 10

Value – 10 / 10

Total Point Score – 60 / 70

Verdict – Iconic with a reason

Availability – https://martin-de-candre.com , https://www.therazorcompany.com , https://blade.net.au , https://maggardrazors.com, https://pasteurpharmacy.com and other online vendors

 

[ColorMug]

Great write up, and it’s nice to see a jar of MDC that I might actually be able to use up

 

[Bladerunner7]

Great write up, and it’s nice to see a jar of MDC that I might actually be able to use up

Thanks much Mate. I can't imagine running through the bowl or the big jar ever, unless it as the only soap i was using.