What brand of mineral oil is available in Australia for vintage safety razors

[Snooze]

Link? I have a small jewllery one from eBay and it is OK but not impressive ...

I think it was this one, or one very similar ...

 

[Mark1966]

I think it was this one, or one very similar ...

AHHHH, much more serious that the one I have - which is similar to the 'JP-890' shown on that page.

 

[58RW]

I soak my TTO razors in hot water with some dishwashing liquid overnight to help break down the soap scum, and again after that with just plain hot water overnight to rinse out all the dishwashing liquid a few times.
Then leave it out to dry and then apply a few drops of mineral oil to mechanical parts only, and store them away in a very dry clean storeage away from dust and mold.

Come on @58FB tell us what is your secret method otherwise your leaving us in the dark, do I have to buy you beer for every secret question

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[58RW]

I soak my TTO razors in hot water with some dishwashing liquid overnight to help break down the soap scum, and again after that with just plain hot water overnight to rinse out all the dishwashing liquid a few times.
Then leave it out to dry and then apply a few drops of mineral oil to mechanical parts only, and store them away in a very dry clean storeage away from dust and mold.

Come on @58FB tell us what is your secret method otherwise your leaving us in the dark, do I have to buy you beer for every secret question

This is actually a pretty good method

 

[SpeedyPC]

This is actually a pretty good method

I hope so @58FB got this method from B&B forum, and I hope it does work well without buying an Ultrasonic cleaner

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[58RW]

 

[Ferret619]

I’ve got some FrogLube on the way, I may give it a run in a blue tip I intended on pulling apart anyway,
The more I think about it, the more I’m convinced that really lubricant in these razors is a solution to a fictional problem but I’m curious if soaps like MWF that leave a film will gum up more with oil in the mix.

 

[borked]

I purchased an ultrasonic cleaner a few months back. Its the 2L size. It can easily fit 5 or six razors - it does an amazing job. It also has a heater to warm the water. A few drops of dishwashing soap and the razors look amazing. The vibration just agitates the gunk out of all the little crevices. The amount of sludge in the bottom of the tub after a few runs is truly disgusting !
I also use it for cleaning carbys and other mechanical parts - so is quite handy!

Surprised you don't just throw them in an autoclave at work mate
Clean carbys?
Ok, spill mate

 

[TomG]

I purchased some Camelia Oil @TomG and used it on my straights prior to storing - I found it left a tacky film which needed soap to remove (not just a wipe with a cloth) - is this usual or did I get the wrong oil?

G'day Rip Van Winkle!
I originally bought a bottle from a Knife specialist from the states, but I see that it is readily available in Oz now. Most online suppliers of high quality knives will stock it. I've snapped a photo of my current bottle. It is my second - the first lasted 8 years. Japanese Camellia Oil is also known by it's local name, which is Tsubaki oil.
I've never had a problem with tacky residue. However, when I apply, it is a very, very thin smear, which is the recommended application method. I also attach a link to an Aussie supplier below.



https://www.japanesetools.com.au/products/camellia-oil

 

[Snooze]

Thanks @TomG ! I will check it out.

 

[Bucephalus]

Considered 3-in-1 or Singer Light Machine Oil?

In my former wood-working phase, I too used Camellia Oil (aka "Kurobara", used by the Japanese for centuries to care for tools & blades) for chisels, plane blades, etc; and never saw a spot of rust.

 

[RustyBlade]

G'day Rip Van Winkle!
I originally bought a bottle from a Knife specialist from the states, but I see that it is readily available in Oz now. Most online suppliers of high quality knives will stock it. I've snapped a photo of my current bottle. It is my second - the first lasted 8 years. Japanese Camellia Oil is also known by it's local name, which is Tsubaki oil.
I've never had a problem with tacky residue. However, when I apply, it is a very, very thin smear, which is the recommended application method. I also attach a link to an Aussie supplier below.



https://www.japanesetools.com.au/products/camellia-oil

So, you are saying that it is great but used sparingly?
If so would you recommend it in a TTO shaft as it appears it may go gunky or tacky if over applied?

 

[TomG]

So, you are saying that it is great but used sparingly?
If so would you recommend it in a TTO shaft as it appears it may go gunky or tacky if over applied?

G'day Rusty. For the shaft of a TTO, I'd go with the recommendation of @Bucephalus above and use Singer Light Machine Oil, although there are plenty of other options.

 

[Ferret619]

Dispite people being way ahead of me I figured since I was pulling my blue tip apart anyway I’d throw some pics up.
This blue tip is a pretty clean example but here are some pictures of the thread I took while cleaning.

These shots are Post soak and wipe, to completely clean the threads I needed to run a tap n die over these things.
There’s a lot of play in these things as they don’t need tight tolerances in this area, oil is not required but I understand the impulse to want maintain.