Weekly Razor Review

Wilde & Harte Osterley (England)



This Wilde & Harte Osterley was purchased from Bullgoose Shaving this year, so is from the current production. An email to Bullgoose confirmed that the head used on all W&H DE models is the same, however the head of the Eltham does have scalloped edges. When I pushed the buy button, I hadn’t realized just how different the head of the Wilde and Harte Osterley was to the older Eltham model I tested last week; this now gives me the opportunity to compare the older W&H model head against the current offering on a similar profile handle. The Osterley’s head features a plate with a flat back and a raised square section on its top; blade clamping is taken care of by the cap mating against this raised section, however clamping occurs well inside the extremities of the cap. Like the Eltham, the handle features a bulbous section at the forward end and a slender tail section, but the sectional profile of the handle is round. Very light machine marks are present on the underside of the cap and the top of the plate; this machining has been so well executed that the marks almost look like a satin finish at a quick glance; all remaining surfaces of the Osterley are highly polished.

It always has me puzzled when the blades supplied with a new razor are Feather. Many users are simply frightened of Feather blades, but I associate them with mild performing heads. In for a penny, in for a pound, look out Feather blade you’re my first choice for the Osterley. Many blades, and that includes this Feather throw up some weird and less than wonderful results on their initial passes, but once they get over that initial startup period deliver true results. There was a little surprise when the Osterley delivered a shave of slightly under Karve CB Level #D efficiency and the shave was smooth as silk. One thing that was evident between the blades was their level of performance, so I would recommend trying a variety of blades before settling on a favourite in this razor. With muscle memory of the right hand becoming accustomed to finding a usable hold on the strangely profiled Osterley handle, I had a lot less trouble clasping the handle then with the Eltham, however I am still not a fan of this handle. This razor delivers a great shave; I could live with it.

Blades Used – Feather and Gillette Platinum Plus

Material –Stainless Steel

Blade Tab - Covered

Weight – 110.7g

Head Width – 43.46mm

Handle Length – 94.48mm

Handle Diameter – 16.38mm

Availability – Bullgoose and Wilde and Harte

Final Word – Stunning looks
 
Hey @Errol, another razor for you to review in 2026, RazoRock Recurve.

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Lambda Ares V2 Ti (Greece)



Since my very first purchase of a Lambda razor, which just happened to be their very first released bronze Ares (V1), I have been awe-struck by the quality and presentation of the Lambda product. Not only is every razor finished to a mirror polish, but it comes in a solid mahogany case with white felt inserts and quality brass hinges and fittings, this time with a deep grey stain. For this purchase I was searching for the titanium version. It took a while for the titanium version to be released, but I was there waiting when word came through that the titanium version was available. An end on view of the head shows the profile is not far off being a full semi-circle. On its own the cap looks to be a fairly standard affair, but the extra-long comb contributes to the visual sense of the semi-circle. Round blade posts on the cap protrude completely through the plate and the wide flats on the edge of the cap mate to the convex surface of the plate. Proudly displayed on each end of the plate is the Lambda trademark (λ). Throughout its evolution, one thing has remained constant, the handle design of the Ares still represents the sculptured columns of the state buildings of ancient Greece, it certainly has presence and provides positive grip. Adding to the quality features of the Ares V2 titanium, the thread contact is precise and has the smoothest engagement of any titanium razor it has been my pleasure or displeasure to use.

While I was in awe of the performance of the Stainless Steel Lambda Ares V2, I enjoyed the titanium even more. Efficiency is down noticeably to the stainless steel V2 to under Karve CB level #D, the reduction in efficiency has delivered a smoother and more comfortable shave, if that is possible. Lambda have done a creditable job in polishing and smoothing all sharp edges from the teeth of the comb, they are barely noticeable as they glide over the face. This is one razor that must be used to be appreciated for what it is, an outstanding razor. Make way on the top shelf, here comes the Lambda Ares V2 Ti.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Willy’s

Material – Titanium Gr 5

Blade Tab – Slightly exposed

Weight – 57.4g

Head Width – 42.03mm

Handle Length – 95.01mm

Handle Diameter – 11.41mm

Availability – Lambda

Final Word – Quality all the way
 
Lambda Athena Ti (Greece)



Coming into possession of the Athena Ti was one whole lot less stressing than my acquisition of the Ares Ti V2, I simply opened the Lambda website, and it was available. Even though I’ve seen it previously, I’m still intrigued by how the Athena channels its waste lather out through the end of the plate; grooves machined into the top of the plate allow the waste lather to be forced rearwards towards a channel running lengthwise across the plate, and the lather simply disperses out the end of the plate. Round blade posts on the cap mate into blind holes in the top of the plate. If you’re starting to get the impression that the top of the plate is congested with machining, it is, it’s a busy place and very unlike just about every other plate. Undoubtedly, the centrepiece of the Athena is the handle, a torpedo shape with four flats machined at the forward section and a mirror polished except for the flats and a small length of blasted finish towards the end of the handle. While the thread engagement is not as good as that of the Ares V2 Ti I used last week, it is still a credit to the machinist responsible. As with all Lambda razors, the Lambda trademark (λ) is displayed proudly on both ends of the plate. To complete its presentation, every part of the head is mirror polished without a machine mark visible anywhere. And that presentation box, how could I not mention it, a piece of artwork.

There was no way I was expecting the Athena Ti to be more efficient than the bronze version, but it was, only marginally, but noticeable. Efficiency was on the higher side of Karve CB level #D and the blade feel so well proportioned. The Athena Ti is not a feather weight; it is at the higher end of weights for a titanium razor, but it is a weight that suits this razor. To say I am impressed with the performance of the Athena Ti is an understatement, I thoroughly enjoyed using the Athena Ti, brilliant.

Blades Used – Wizamet Polsilver and Gillette Minora

Material – Titanium Gr 5

Blade Tab – Slightly exposed

Weight – 69.7g

Head Width – 41.97mm

Handle Length – 94.95mm

Handle Diameter – 15.01mm

Availability – Lambda

Final Word – Fan-bloody-tastic
 
Errol said:
Lambda Athena Ti (Greece)



Coming into possession of the Athena Ti was one whole lot less stressing than my acquisition of the Ares Ti V2, I simply opened the Lambda website, and it was available. Even though I’ve seen it previously, I’m still intrigued by how the Athena channels its waste lather out through the end of the plate; grooves machined into the top of the plate allow the waste lather to be forced rearwards towards a channel running lengthwise across the plate, and the lather simply disperses out the end of the plate. Round blade posts on the cap mate into blind holes in the top of the plate. If you’re starting to get the impression that the top of the plate is congested with machining, it is, it’s a busy place and very unlike just about every other plate. Undoubtedly, the centrepiece of the Athena is the handle, a torpedo shape with four flats machined at the forward section and a mirror polished except for the flats and a small length of blasted finish towards the end of the handle. While the thread engagement is not as good as that of the Ares V2 Ti I used last week, it is still a credit to the machinist responsible. As with all Lambda razors, the Lambda trademark (λ) is displayed proudly on both ends of the plate. To complete its presentation, every part of the head is mirror polished without a machine mark visible anywhere. And that presentation box, how could I not mention it, a piece of artwork.

There was no way I was expecting the Athena Ti to be more efficient than the bronze version, but it was, only marginally, but noticeable. Efficiency was on the higher side of Karve CB level #D and the blade feel so well proportioned. The Athena Ti is not a feather weight; it is at the higher end of weights for a titanium razor, but it is a weight that suits this razor. To say I am impressed with the performance of the Athena Ti is an understatement, I thoroughly enjoyed using the Athena Ti, brilliant.

Blades Used – Wizamet Polsilver and Gillette Minora

Material – Titanium Gr 5

Blade Tab – Slightly exposed

Weight – 69.7g

Head Width – 41.97mm

Handle Length – 94.95mm

Handle Diameter – 15.01mm

Availability – Lambda

Final Word – Fan-bloody-tastic
Click to expand...
This has to be one of the most beautiful razors out there
 
Rotbart Rasierapparat No 15 (Germany)



The Rotbart No 15 I’m reviewing here was purchased from @Vittoria earlier this year and is said to be circa late 1930’s to mid 1940’s. I assured @Vittoria I would review this razor before the end of the year; phew, just made that deadline. Prior to their buy out around 1927, Rotbart was just as well known in Germany as the name Gillette was to the rest of the world. Rotbart pioneered the manufacture of razors, blades and cases until they were bought out by none other than Gillette themselves. Following the acquisition the two brands co-existed as separate identities until after the end of the Second World War. During this period it was hard to identify if a razor was of Gillette or Rotbart origin.

It has been said that the Rotbart is electroplated brass, but the razor feels too light to be brass. Where the electroplating has worn off, the underlying metal has a brass tint, so I’ll go along with the flow and call it brass. It’s a two piece design with its disassembling knob retained at the end of the handle. Small details like the fine spiralling knurling on the handle and the join of the handle to the plate give an indication of its German quality of manufacture and their attention to detail. Extra wide channels clear the lather, and the face engaging edge is grooved. Two methods of blade locating and retention are employed; firstly, there are retaining lugs on each corner of the cap plus elongated blade posts; again, German over engineering, or is it Gillette over engineering? While the electroplating is showing signs of wear, there is still enough remaining to remind the user that it would have been a spectacular razor in its day.

Consider this. It’s 1937 and young Johannus has just received his brand new Rotbart No 15 from Mum and Dad for his 16th birthday, he’s excited and can’t wait to try it out. First shave and like everyone at their first shaving attempt there is no hand/ eye coordination and that razor will not move in the direction his eye is trying to tell him. For that first dozen shaves it gets easier every time, he accepts the razor for what it is, has but does not appreciate the under Karve Level #D efficiency, minute positive blade, super smooth shave and just how easy and comfortable this shaving business really is, he will eventually progress to that comfort level. If he really slipped up there is a possibility he might slice a bit of skin off, but the chances of that happening would be rare. Fast forward 85 plus years and some old geezer who wasn’t even thought of, let alone born when the razor was released, picks the No 15 up and is immediately impressed by what he is able to achieve all those years later. This razor is a credit to the Rotbart/ Gillette alliance and is one that is well worth trying out.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum Plus and Gillette Super Stainless

Material – Brass electroplated

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 39.84mm

Weight – 52.5g

Handle Length – 76.92mm

Handle Diameter – 9.72mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – It’s good
 
Errol said:
Rotbart Rasierapparat No 15 (Germany)



The Rotbart No 15 I’m reviewing here was purchased from @Vittoria earlier this year and is said to be circa late 1930’s to mid 1940’s. I assured @Vittoria I would review this razor before the end of the year; phew, just made that deadline. Prior to their buy out around 1927, Rotbart was just as well known in Germany as the name Gillette was to the rest of the world. Rotbart pioneered the manufacture of razors, blades and cases until they were bought out by none other than Gillette themselves. Following the acquisition the two brands co-existed as separate identities until after the end of the Second World War. During this period it was hard to identify if a razor was of Gillette or Rotbart origin.

It has been said that the Rotbart is electroplated brass, but the razor feels too light to be brass. Where the electroplating has worn off, the underlying metal has a brass tint, so I’ll go along with the flow and call it brass. It’s a two piece design with its disassembling knob retained at the end of the handle. Small details like the fine spiralling knurling on the handle and the join of the handle to the plate give an indication of its German quality of manufacture and their attention to detail. Extra wide channels clear the lather, and the face engaging edge is grooved. Two methods of blade locating and retention are employed; firstly, there are retaining lugs on each corner of the cap plus elongated blade posts; again, German over engineering, or is it Gillette over engineering? While the electroplating is showing signs of wear, there is still enough remaining to remind the user that it would have been a spectacular razor in its day.

Consider this. It’s 1937 and young Johannus has just received his brand new Rotbart No 15 from Mum and Dad for his 16th birthday, he’s excited and can’t wait to try it out. First shave and like everyone at their first shaving attempt there is no hand/ eye coordination and that razor will not move in the direction his eye is trying to tell him. For that first dozen shaves it gets easier every time, he accepts the razor for what it is, has but does not appreciate the under Karve Level #D efficiency, minute positive blade, super smooth shave and just how easy and comfortable this shaving business really is, he will eventually progress to that comfort level. If he really slipped up there is a possibility he might slice a bit of skin off, but the chances of that happening would be rare. Fast forward 85 plus years and some old geezer who wasn’t even thought of, let alone born when the razor was released, picks the No 15 up and is immediately impressed by what he is able to achieve all those years later. This razor is a credit to the Rotbart/ Gillette alliance and is one that is well worth trying out.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum Plus and Gillette Super Stainless

Material – Brass electroplated

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 39.84mm

Weight – 52.5g

Handle Length – 76.92mm

Handle Diameter – 9.72mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – It’s good
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@Errol great vintage review and thanks for a year of superb reviews and PM advice, I for one really appreciate all you do for P&C and the “wet” shaving community as a whole, thanks mate 🙏
 
Errol said:
Rotbart Rasierapparat No 15 (Germany)



The Rotbart No 15 I’m reviewing here was purchased from @Vittoria earlier this year and is said to be circa late 1930’s to mid 1940’s. I assured @Vittoria I would review this razor before the end of the year; phew, just made that deadline. Prior to their buy out around 1927, Rotbart was just as well known in Germany as the name Gillette was to the rest of the world. Rotbart pioneered the manufacture of razors, blades and cases until they were bought out by none other than Gillette themselves. Following the acquisition the two brands co-existed as separate identities until after the end of the Second World War. During this period it was hard to identify if a razor was of Gillette or Rotbart origin.

It has been said that the Rotbart is electroplated brass, but the razor feels too light to be brass. Where the electroplating has worn off, the underlying metal has a brass tint, so I’ll go along with the flow and call it brass. It’s a two piece design with its disassembling knob retained at the end of the handle. Small details like the fine spiralling knurling on the handle and the join of the handle to the plate give an indication of its German quality of manufacture and their attention to detail. Extra wide channels clear the lather, and the face engaging edge is grooved. Two methods of blade locating and retention are employed; firstly, there are retaining lugs on each corner of the cap plus elongated blade posts; again, German over engineering, or is it Gillette over engineering? While the electroplating is showing signs of wear, there is still enough remaining to remind the user that it would have been a spectacular razor in its day.

Consider this. It’s 1937 and young Johannus has just received his brand new Rotbart No 15 from Mum and Dad for his 16th birthday, he’s excited and can’t wait to try it out. First shave and like everyone at their first shaving attempt there is no hand/ eye coordination and that razor will not move in the direction his eye is trying to tell him. For that first dozen shaves it gets easier every time, he accepts the razor for what it is, has but does not appreciate the under Karve Level #D efficiency, minute positive blade, super smooth shave and just how easy and comfortable this shaving business really is, he will eventually progress to that comfort level. If he really slipped up there is a possibility he might slice a bit of skin off, but the chances of that happening would be rare. Fast forward 85 plus years and some old geezer who wasn’t even thought of, let alone born when the razor was released, picks the No 15 up and is immediately impressed by what he is able to achieve all those years later. This razor is a credit to the Rotbart/ Gillette alliance and is one that is well worth trying out.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum Plus and Gillette Super Stainless

Material – Brass electroplated

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 39.84mm

Weight – 52.5g

Handle Length – 76.92mm

Handle Diameter – 9.72mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – It’s good
Click to expand...
Hi @Errol I thoroughly enjoyed reading this review as I have with all of them.
I really enjoyed the telling .
Mate I agree wholeheartedly with what @LesC said
I hope your reviews go on for a long time yet or at least as long as they keep giving the enjoyment, you must get researching and writing them.
A big end of 2025 cheers to you Eroll
Best wishes to you for 2026.
 
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Razor of the Year 2025

It was late into the third quarter of the year, and I did not have any standout performers as my Razor of the Year for 2025. Sure, there were razors that I liked but they were not what I was searching for as a Razor of the Year, they were all missing that special something. Then it happened, a run of quality razors in a short space of time; no worries now about not having a Razor of the Year, my priority changed to identify which one. It was only after going over my notes several times and comparing the razors side by side that I was able to select a worthy winner. Without any further ado, my Razor of the year for 2025 is the Oliworks M3tiorite Ti. How could I go past that exploding meteorite that graces the top of the cap of this amiably weighted titanium masterpiece, great machining, no sharp corners, the positive gripping handle, quality finish and most importantly those very enjoyable shaves. My selection is made using the higher efficiency plate but there are two further plates to select if you want something less efficient.



Oliworks M3etiorite Medium – 304 stainless steel, heavy, shaves on the mild side of medium, close and especially smooth, a breath of fresh air

Oliworks M3etiorite Aggressive – 304 stainless steel, heavy, shaves a little on the high side of medium, smooth, a great shave

Alpha Cape Cod – 6061 aluminium, anodised, blue and red, lower mid range efficiency, not bad

Tatara Amakuni – 316 Stainless steel, two piece, very light head on Tatara style handle, not balanced, magnets used to clamp the cap, mid range efficiency, there’s better.

Rocnel Model DE 304 – Stainless steel, no lather clearing channel, super mild efficiency, a dud

Blackland Workshop Batch 002 – 6061 aluminium, nickel plated, made from rectangular section box tubing, takes very little time to acclimatise to the box handle, under mid range efficiency, a bit of a gimmick that works

RazoRock Goat – Stainless steel, modelled on the Merkur 34C razor, mid range efficiency, simple and effective

Colonial CR7 – 6061 Aluminium, mild efficiency, just another razor

Alpha Guido – Brass, designed in conjunction with the expert behind Stubble Meets Steel, spectacular handle, lower end of mid range efficiency, give me more

The Razor Company Vanguard (Plus) – 316 stainless steel, very well made especially for a budget razor, mid range efficiency, usable positive blade, my kind of razor

Atelier Durdan Horizon – 316 stainless steel, adjustable AC bladed razor, adjusted by sliding the cap forward and aft, unique, physically large head, heavy, smooth throughout adjusted range, a marvel

Ascender Eagle V1 – Gr 5 Titanium, designed and made by the artisan responsible for the Paradigm Diamondback, mid range efficiency, smooth and comfortable, top stuff

Oliworks M3etiorite #3 Plate – Gr 5 Titanium, quality build, efficient and slick

Maxwell June – Stainless steel, machine finish, neutral blade exposure, unique feeling shave, overweight, superb shaver

Errol’s Razors of the Year

2017 Razorock Babysmooth Ti

2018 RAW Shaving RS-10

2019 Smart Helix Apollo

2020 Timeless Slim Edition 0.5mm

2021 Blutt BR-1 Rasur

2022 REX Konsul Slant Adjustable

2023 Wolfman WR4

2024 Atelier Durdan Numéro 7

2025 Oliworks M3etiorote Ti
 
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